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LH2.0 to LH2.4 Without The 60-2 Flywheel and CPS

SteveMD

Membro
Joined
Feb 15, 2004
Location
Well, I switched baristas.
Are there any creative ways to work around the lack of a CPS and flywheel in a LH2.0 to LH2.4 conversion? My LH2.0 wiring is ratty and I have a late 240 LH2.4 harness as well as ECU's.
 
sure if you don't want the updated ezk.

some bmw's have 60-2 wheels that go on the crank pulley, you could fab that up to work, but your best bet is correct flywheel and sensor setup.
 
Are there any creative ways to work around the lack of a CPS and flywheel in a LH2.0 to LH2.4 conversion? My LH2.0 wiring is ratty and I have a late 240 LH2.4 harness as well as ECU's.

I have some lh2.4 compatible flat flywheels around if you need.
 
No, I mean the calculated load output from ECU that EZK uses to determine timing advance by given rotational speed.

Interesting question. Since the inputs are different and I believe have greater resolution in 2.4, one would think that the output is also different - but maybe not...
 
Check out what ipdown did.

This should also work for upgrading LH2.2 to 2.4, and I think the LH load signal (TQ) should be the same in both variants. TQ is PWM with the same frequency as RPM pulses, the pulses are very short in duration (?s range) so that EZK have time to measure them and decide how much the engine is loaded. So the combo EZ 117/118 and LH 2.4 should be possible too.
 
If it is the "removing the transmission and installing a new flywheel" -part that you want to skip, you could probably just replicate the 60-2 trigger pattern on a trigger disc and mount it in front of the crankshaft.

Here's one, although done with a 36-1 trigger disc. Same basic idea would apply.

etutriggeri_1.jpg


etutriggeri_2.jpg




The trigger disc can be made to fit nicely over the backside of the original Volvo B230 belt pulley. The original pulley is cast iron though, so you can't just MIG-weld it with regular wire. TIG-welding with proper TIG rod works well, as does stick welding it with the correct welding stick.

If you do have the correct flywheel, or if you can get one easily, and the block is already drilled for the VR sensor bracket, it's probably easier to just remove the transmission and replace the flywheel with a LH2.4 one. Using stock stuff should be just a bolt-off - bolt-on job. Making a new bracket as pictured and making the trigger disc is more involved that that.

I'm not entirely sure though if all the B230 blocks are drilled and threaded for the stock VR sensor braket.
 
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Thanks for the info thus far.

My B23F block is most likely not drilled for the CPS bracket. I'm interested in doing the 60-2 trigger disc on the crank pulley.

Any suggestions on where to get the wheel and on what sensor to use that will work with LH2.4?
 
Thanks for the info thus far.

My B23F block is most likely not drilled for the CPS bracket. I'm interested in doing the 60-2 trigger disc on the crank pulley.

Any suggestions on where to get the wheel and on what sensor to use that will work with LH2.4?

Where to get the trigger wheel:
Your local water jet cutter. Your local laser cutter. Your local CNC operator.Your local machine shop. One piece can be made even with a manual mill. Making only one is usually expensive though. When ever i've had the need for a trigger wheel, i've always made them more than one and then i've sold the rest. A single trigger wheel would set me back in the region of 60 - 70 euro. When made in a batch of 20, the price comes down significantly. Have it made to be at least 6mm or 1/4 inch thick.

There are people visiting this board who seem to have the needed equipment to make one. Triangle-Ben comes to mind. Then theres that guy Mueller who seems to machine things. And i think John V has some equipment as well. I'm sure there are others as well. Maybe ask them?

Best way to do it is to install the trigger wheel on to the pulley. Then have the outer perimeter machined in a lathe so that it's co-centric with the crank centerline. Then have the pulley balanced. In the system above the runout was less than 0.2mm without any lathe work though, so that should work even if you skip that part. Your results may vary.


Where to get the sensor:
You could try the Volvo LH 2.4 sensor. The signal might be a bit weaker with a smaller than stock wheel. If that's a problem or not, i don't know. Only way to find out would be to try it i guess. A Ford PC19 sensor gives a lot stronger signal, and it is a VR sensor as well. The bracket pictured above was designed to use a Ford PC19 sensor, although in that case EDIS was used instead of LH2.4.

Orientation of the seonsor:
This is critical. Make the sensor bracket in that way that you can move the sensor. The correct orientation is mentioned in the greenbooks. I think the -2 part was 90 degrees before TDC. You should check that though.
 
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Thanks, Wagner. I have seen 60-2 wheels for sale via web search.

Ok. Those should work then. If you decide to install it behind the belt pulley like pictured, in my case the I.D. of the trigger wheel needed to be 57.5mm. This may or may not vary depending on whether the pulley is a Volvo one or an aftermarket one.

The O.D. was 177mm, but there's no other reason for that particular O.D. apart from the sensor bracket that was used. That size trigger wheel was good with that particular sensor bracket. You should be able to make pretty much any size wheel work. It should, however, be at least of a size that allows the teeth to overhang from the belt pulley. So the O.D. should be larger than then pulley.
 
If it is the "removing the transmission and installing a new flywheel" -part that you want to skip, you could probably just replicate the 60-2 trigger pattern on a trigger disc and mount it in front of the crankshaft.

Here's one, although done with a 36-1 trigger disc. Same basic idea would apply.

etutriggeri_1.jpg


etutriggeri_2.jpg




The trigger disc can be made to fit nively over the backside of the original Volvo B230 belt pulley. The original pulley is cast iron though, so you can't just MIG-weld it with regular wire. TIG-welding with proper TIG rod works well, as does stick welding it with the correct welding stick.

If you do have the correct flywheel, or if you can get one easily, and the block is already drilled for the VR sensor bracket, it's probably easier to just remove the transmission and replace the flywheel with a LH2.4 one. Using stock stuff should be just a bolt-off - bolt-on job. Making a new bracket as pictured and making the trigger disc is more involved that that.

I'm not entirely sure though if all the B230 blocks are drilled and threaded for the stock VR sensor braket.

Man that would make an awesome kit to make and sell. :nod:
 
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