• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

MaxxECU Questions and Support/Purchase: Post them here

I looked at the MaxxECU Mini capabilities a little more and yes, you can use any unused INJ/IGN outputs for other functions. The INJ outputs are high-current ground-side drivers (~5 Amps). The IGN drivers are logic-level 5V drivers at limited current (~10mA at logic levels).

For @Lazercar 's desired capabilities, the Mini is one output short. If you can give up full sequential fueling (4 pins) and use semi-sequential fueling (2 pins) instead, a Mini can just barely fit - all I/O are used except for 1 spare Inj output. Or if you can give up PWM boost control, and use a MBC instead, it fits and supports full sequential. [For comparison, it will all fit into a MS3pro Mini but it won't support Volvo EPAS over CAN.]
maxed out MaxxECU Mini.png

I've attached the Maxx config file I was playing with - it started as the MaxxECU provided file for a Volvo B230 8V turbo.
 

Attachments

bobxyz said:
I looked at the MaxxECU Mini capabilities a little more and yes, you can use any unused INJ/IGN outputs for other functions. The INJ outputs are high-current ground-side drivers (~5 Amps). The IGN drivers are logic-level 5V drivers at limited current (~10mA at logic levels).

For @Lazercar 's desired capabilities, the Mini is one output short. If you can give up full sequential fueling (4 pins) and use semi-sequential fueling (2 pins) instead, a Mini can just barely fit - all I/O are used except for 1 spare Inj output. Or if you can give up PWM boost control, and use a MBC instead, it fits and supports full sequential. [For comparison, it will all fit into a MS3pro Mini but it won't support Volvo EPAS over CAN.]
View attachment 28902

I've attached the Maxx config file I was playing with - it started as the MaxxECU provided file for a Volvo B230 8V turbo.
Click to expand...
Thanks for all the information you have provided. It has really helped in planning and choosing an ECU along with the parts to go with it. Its nice to know the injectors/ignition outputs can be reutilized. I am tempted to just pay the little bit extra for the Street version, that way I have room to grow if I want. It gives me 2 extra injector and ignition outputs, 1 extra general purpose output, and it saves money on getting a lambda controller. Just something to think about. Thanks for all the info youve provided, its been a great help.
 
Lazercar said:
Hey. So, after lots of research, I think Maxxecu has caught my attention the most for an aftermarket ECU system for my 84 242 turbo. I am still determining if Maxxecu mini or if Maxxecu street will be a better option for me. The main reason I would choose the street version over the mini version is that it includes the WBo2 controller. I feel this will simplify how the system operates instead of running an external controller via CANbus. But, if anybody has any recommendations for a WBO2 controller that can run off CANbus, you are more than welcome to send them here.

The main issue that concerns me with the two maxxecus I listed is the number of outputs and inputs. I want to run Outputs: a PWM fan, PS pump, IAC, Fuel pump, boost control solenoid. Inputs: AC signal input, vehicle speed sensor (for PS pump), air temp, coolant temp, throttle position. I believe that leaves me with 0 extra inputs, and -1 outputs, meaning I am left with either sacrificing the fuel pump pwm, or paying extra for the PWM expansion module (tempting). Let me know what yall would do. Somewhat broke college student here, so saving money where I can is nice, but that does not mean I am going to cut corners on the equipment I purchase.

I also have a couple questions regarding ignition. I want to either use sequential ignition or wasted spark. Am I able to use the lh 2.2 distributor as a cam position sensor in pair with the flywheel crank trigger from lh2.4 to create an accurate enough signal for sequential or wasted spark ignition? If the Lh 2.2 distributor can be used, I am assuming you can connect it similarly as a megasquirt system. I have done research on the DSM Cas system, but I mainly just want to save money where I can, and if the DSM Cas isnt needed, I wont get it.

I realize this may not be a Maxxecu specific question, but while I am here I have a couple questions about CANbus. I attempted to do some research on it, but most of the information just sort of blew me away. I understand its a protocol system that connects a bunch of modules together that send out specific signals to communicate with each other on OEM systems. Does this mean that you can essentially hook up as many modules in series as you want and it can control all the modules? So say, I can run a bosch o2 controller, a pwm expansion module, and a button control module all on the same CANbus circuit? Sorry if this is a stupid question, I just wanted to get some clarity on the subject.

Regardless, I will probably be looking to buy one of these units soon, just trying to accumulate and plan as much knowledge as I can before I start working on it. This will be my first custom EFI project, coming from someone who mainly works with Kjet.
Click to expand...

I always opt for a model with more I/O, but the CAN is very robust and easily workable.

the AEMX series is CAN.

Run the volvo MK1 PS pump, that's CAN and wont eat up an output.

Use wasted spark, and use a solid state relay off of the ignition channels to work extra things. that gives you 2 extra outputs.

you can cut a 7-1 missing tooth wheel setup into the lh 2.2 distributor vanes and it will work as a cam sensor, also, this will give you 2 DIN to do as you please.

CAN is a network, the amount of devices you can run will be well more than you can fit in a car. They all work together on the same bus (provided there are no conflicts)

Send me a PM and i will get you setup with pricing on a unit.
 
Learned a few things in this thread, so thanks to those posting answers!
MaxxECU race recently received!

I have an active air temperature sensor (3 wire, it outputs a voltage) I'd like to use for IAT, but MTune doesn't seem to have a way to use an active sensor in its IAT field, only resistive/2-wire sensors. (I tried entering a user defined sensor and switching the resistance axis to voltage, and can't).

If I use one of the analog inputs (AIN3-8) and define its function as "intake temperature sensor", will it be used by the ECU for IAT trims, etc?

Thanks!
 
I looked briefly and I think that MaxxECU race needs a standard 2-wire resistive IAT sensor. WillettRun? will need to confirm.

What sensor, and conditioner board?, are you trying to use, and why versus using a standard automotive sensor? If you can find/measure the IAT input resistance on the ECU, you might be able to figure out a usable resistance vs temperature table (assuming that the ECU just uses a resistive voltage divider going into an ADC). The interpolation between table cells would be poor, unless your 3-wire sensor has a non-linear voltage output curve like the 2-wire sensors.

Edit: I take it back - if you bring up Help, and select Analog Inputs, scroll down and select "Input used as analog temperature input", scroll down more and it says:
"intake temperature sensor - Must be calibrated in deg C. Overrides the IAT input wire and uses this input as IAT instead."
 
Last edited:
bobxyz said:
I looked briefly and I think that MaxxECU race needs a standard 2-wire resistive IAT sensor. WillettRun? will need to confirm.

What sensor, and conditioner board?, are you trying to use, and why versus using a standard automotive sensor? If you can find/measure the IAT input resistance on the ECU, you might be able to figure out a usable resistance vs temperature table (assuming that the ECU just uses a resistive voltage divider going into an ADC). The interpolation between table cells would be poor, unless your 3-wire sensor has a non-linear voltage output curve like the 2-wire sensors.

Edit: I take it back - if you bring up Help, and select Analog Inputs, scroll down and select "Input used as analog temperature input", scroll down more and it says:
"intake temperature sensor - Must be calibrated in deg C. Overrides the IAT input wire and uses this input as IAT instead."
Click to expand...

Thank you, and yes! MAXX email support also provided a solution, very similar to the one you found, but using "advanced->user tables".
The reason; I bought the sensor based on form factor, I "needed" an M6x1 thread size. (That's another story that was probably a poor choice. lol)
 
freedraft said:
Learned a few things in this thread, so thanks to those posting answers!
MaxxECU race recently received!

I have an active air temperature sensor (3 wire, it outputs a voltage) I'd like to use for IAT, but MTune doesn't seem to have a way to use an active sensor in its IAT field, only resistive/2-wire sensors. (I tried entering a user defined sensor and switching the resistance axis to voltage, and can't).

If I use one of the analog inputs (AIN3-8) and define its function as "intake temperature sensor", will it be used by the ECU for IAT trims, etc?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
yes
 
Hi, I need help with a MaxxECU Race, Plug and Play for the FOCUS RS MK@ - which is a Volvo T5 engine.

On the fuel general page it asks for the fuel pressure at 3 bar but the fuel pressure I'm running at is 4bar with uprated injectors 750cc so deadtime and flow is different to the 3 bar figure its asking for?

Injector flow at 3 bar is 793 cc/min/43,5psi
Injector flow at 4 bar is 909 cc/min/58,0psi

Engine running at 4 bar 58psi.

Also does the trigger seems wrong? Getting a Lost Sync error.log_print.pnglog_print_2.png

Maybe weak battery? Have a stalling issue.
 

Attachments

Last edited:
I'm new to MaxxECU, but yes, the home/cam seems bad. I'd expect it to go up to ~4.5 volts instead of only ~2.5 volts.

The blue shaded band of \\\\\\\\\ shows the rising/falling threshold voltages used for triggering. The signal needs to go well above the shaded band, and well below the shaded band, to trigger correctly. Yours is not going above the shaded band, and thus won't trigger.

I'm not sure why the PNP is only seeing ~2.5 volts. You could try using non-default thresholds
Under Inputs-Trigger/Home, Home input-Threshold voltages, change it to use Custom settings of:
Rising edge: 2.0volts / Falling edge: 1.5volts
 
bobxyz said:
I'm new to MaxxECU, but yes, the home/cam seems bad. I'd expect it to go up to ~4.5 volts instead of only ~2.5 volts.

The blue shaded band of \\\\\\\\\ shows the rising/falling threshold voltages used for triggering. The signal needs to go well above the shaded band, and well below the shaded band, to trigger correctly. Yours is not going above the shaded band, and thus won't trigger.

I'm not sure why the PNP is only seeing ~2.5 volts. You could try using non-default thresholds
Under Inputs-Trigger/Home, Home input-Threshold voltages, change it to use Custom settings of:
Rising edge: 2.0volts / Falling edge: 1.5volts
Click to expand...
So once i got it running pressing the throttle, its reading but, still have issue of a no start, even then it will start and then die won't idle.
could the ECU be faulty? cam sensors changed.

2v_1.5v_trigger.png
 
That cam sensor waveform looks really bad. It should be a proper square wave. how did you wire it up? The crank sensor looks just fine. Send me a message, let me have a look at it.
 
Ok, I've searched all the Maxx docs, and can't find an answer.

I have a VR (2 pin) sensor for Trigger, and Hall (3 pin) sensor for Home.
The harness purchased from Maxx uses the the "VR gnd" pin on the ECU to both of the above sensors.
But I also need to provide 5v to the Hall sensor, so it seems wrong to connect the ground on the Hall sensor to anything other than "sensor gnd".

So as connected on the Maxx harness, the Hall sensor shares the "VR gnd" with the VR sensor.
Is that right, or ok? Or should I connect the Hall sensor ground to the "sensor gnd"?

Thanks!
 
Probably found my obvious answer here:

Triggers

Cam position sensor (digital) Honeweyll digital sensor, product id: 895. Digital cam position sensor for detection of cam position. Pulldown output. Requires a pull-up resisto
www.maxxecu.com www.maxxecu.com

Just odd that, it seems most cam sensors are Hall, but the Maxx harness (and Maxx diagram) is wired as if they're VR.
 
Very odd.
MaxxECU online docs say to hook up Hall type Home sensor to +5v sensor, and sensor ground.
I sent an email to MaxxECU, and they responded and said, hook to +5v and VR gnd. Which, seems weird.
It turns out, my OEM hall cam sensor is 12v, so I'm just going to connect to switched 12v and chassis ground, and provide the signal to the maxxecu home input.
 
Intake Cam sensor
Vref 4.9 volts
Gnd is good since it provides the 4.9 volts
Vout is showing 3.7 volts??

Compared to
Exhaust cam sensor
Vref 4.9 volts
Gnd is good again
vout is 4.2 volts ??

Both vout are low but the intake vout is very low? Would that be a ecu issue or wiring?
 
gizmo786 said:
Intake Cam sensor
Vref 4.9 volts
Gnd is good since it provides the 4.9 volts
Vout is showing 3.7 volts??

Compared to
Exhaust cam sensor
Vref 4.9 volts
Gnd is good again
vout is 4.2 volts ??

Both vout are low but the intake vout is very low? Would that be a ecu issue or wiring?
Click to expand...
When using the internal pullup resistors on my HW version 11 MINI, I also see mismatched voltages as measured by the built-in oscilloscope:
- cam(home) = 260mV to 4.78V
- crank(trigger) = 160mV to 4.02V
They're a little closer when using an external 1K pullup to +5V
- cam(home) = 280mV to 4.99V
- crank(trigger) = 160mV to 4.50V
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top