OttoB
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2006
I have Maxxecu with four (!) Canbus Lambdas. Ecumaster lambda Controller is the ones I choose.
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Thanks for all the information you have provided. It has really helped in planning and choosing an ECU along with the parts to go with it. Its nice to know the injectors/ignition outputs can be reutilized. I am tempted to just pay the little bit extra for the Street version, that way I have room to grow if I want. It gives me 2 extra injector and ignition outputs, 1 extra general purpose output, and it saves money on getting a lambda controller. Just something to think about. Thanks for all the info youve provided, its been a great help.I looked at the MaxxECU Mini capabilities a little more and yes, you can use any unused INJ/IGN outputs for other functions. The INJ outputs are high-current ground-side drivers (~5 Amps). The IGN drivers are logic-level 5V drivers at limited current (~10mA at logic levels).
For @Lazercar 's desired capabilities, the Mini is one output short. If you can give up full sequential fueling (4 pins) and use semi-sequential fueling (2 pins) instead, a Mini can just barely fit - all I/O are used except for 1 spare Inj output. Or if you can give up PWM boost control, and use a MBC instead, it fits and supports full sequential. [For comparison, it will all fit into a MS3pro Mini but it won't support Volvo EPAS over CAN.]
View attachment 28902
I've attached the Maxx config file I was playing with - it started as the MaxxECU provided file for a Volvo B230 8V turbo.
Hey. So, after lots of research, I think Maxxecu has caught my attention the most for an aftermarket ECU system for my 84 242 turbo. I am still determining if Maxxecu mini or if Maxxecu street will be a better option for me. The main reason I would choose the street version over the mini version is that it includes the WBo2 controller. I feel this will simplify how the system operates instead of running an external controller via CANbus. But, if anybody has any recommendations for a WBO2 controller that can run off CANbus, you are more than welcome to send them here.
The main issue that concerns me with the two maxxecus I listed is the number of outputs and inputs. I want to run Outputs: a PWM fan, PS pump, IAC, Fuel pump, boost control solenoid. Inputs: AC signal input, vehicle speed sensor (for PS pump), air temp, coolant temp, throttle position. I believe that leaves me with 0 extra inputs, and -1 outputs, meaning I am left with either sacrificing the fuel pump pwm, or paying extra for the PWM expansion module (tempting). Let me know what yall would do. Somewhat broke college student here, so saving money where I can is nice, but that does not mean I am going to cut corners on the equipment I purchase.
I also have a couple questions regarding ignition. I want to either use sequential ignition or wasted spark. Am I able to use the lh 2.2 distributor as a cam position sensor in pair with the flywheel crank trigger from lh2.4 to create an accurate enough signal for sequential or wasted spark ignition? If the Lh 2.2 distributor can be used, I am assuming you can connect it similarly as a megasquirt system. I have done research on the DSM Cas system, but I mainly just want to save money where I can, and if the DSM Cas isnt needed, I wont get it.
I realize this may not be a Maxxecu specific question, but while I am here I have a couple questions about CANbus. I attempted to do some research on it, but most of the information just sort of blew me away. I understand its a protocol system that connects a bunch of modules together that send out specific signals to communicate with each other on OEM systems. Does this mean that you can essentially hook up as many modules in series as you want and it can control all the modules? So say, I can run a bosch o2 controller, a pwm expansion module, and a button control module all on the same CANbus circuit? Sorry if this is a stupid question, I just wanted to get some clarity on the subject.
Regardless, I will probably be looking to buy one of these units soon, just trying to accumulate and plan as much knowledge as I can before I start working on it. This will be my first custom EFI project, coming from someone who mainly works with Kjet.
I looked briefly and I think that MaxxECU race needs a standard 2-wire resistive IAT sensor. WillettRun? will need to confirm.
What sensor, and conditioner board?, are you trying to use, and why versus using a standard automotive sensor? If you can find/measure the IAT input resistance on the ECU, you might be able to figure out a usable resistance vs temperature table (assuming that the ECU just uses a resistive voltage divider going into an ADC). The interpolation between table cells would be poor, unless your 3-wire sensor has a non-linear voltage output curve like the 2-wire sensors.
Edit: I take it back - if you bring up Help, and select Analog Inputs, scroll down and select "Input used as analog temperature input", scroll down more and it says:
"intake temperature sensor - Must be calibrated in deg C. Overrides the IAT input wire and uses this input as IAT instead."
yesLearned a few things in this thread, so thanks to those posting answers!
MaxxECU race recently received!
I have an active air temperature sensor (3 wire, it outputs a voltage) I'd like to use for IAT, but MTune doesn't seem to have a way to use an active sensor in its IAT field, only resistive/2-wire sensors. (I tried entering a user defined sensor and switching the resistance axis to voltage, and can't).
If I use one of the analog inputs (AIN3-8) and define its function as "intake temperature sensor", will it be used by the ECU for IAT trims, etc?
Thanks!
So once i got it running pressing the throttle, its reading but, still have issue of a no start, even then it will start and then die won't idle.I'm new to MaxxECU, but yes, the home/cam seems bad. I'd expect it to go up to ~4.5 volts instead of only ~2.5 volts.
The blue shaded band of \\\\\\\\\ shows the rising/falling threshold voltages used for triggering. The signal needs to go well above the shaded band, and well below the shaded band, to trigger correctly. Yours is not going above the shaded band, and thus won't trigger.
I'm not sure why the PNP is only seeing ~2.5 volts. You could try using non-default thresholds
Under Inputs-Trigger/Home, Home input-Threshold voltages, change it to use Custom settings of:
Rising edge: 2.0volts / Falling edge: 1.5volts
Yep!Does this have double VVT?
When using the internal pullup resistors on my HW version 11 MINI, I also see mismatched voltages as measured by the built-in oscilloscope:Intake Cam sensor
Vref 4.9 volts
Gnd is good since it provides the 4.9 volts
Vout is showing 3.7 volts??
Compared to
Exhaust cam sensor
Vref 4.9 volts
Gnd is good again
vout is 4.2 volts ??
Both vout are low but the intake vout is very low? Would that be a ecu issue or wiring?