MaxxECU Questions and Support/Purchase: Post them here

[WillettRun?]

As Requested

 

[mitch1971]

Thanks Brett

 

[poulrais]

Sold my MS3X today... Going the MaxxECU way for my 740 T6 swap. Don't know which version yet but probably Race.

 

[bugjam1999]

Hi Willett Run and All,

I'm pretty sure that a Maxxecu mini will just about manage my current configuration/power goals, although it turns out only having 4 outputs is a bit limiting... if you could critique my expected approach below that'd be great. I've also got a couple of questions around wiring and idle control.

Car:
240 with B230FK, 19t on standard manifold, LD performance boost controller, 2.4lh with a Buscha Wasted spark board wired up to a Miata ignitor and a Bosch 2x2 coil, AEM 30-0300 X-Series AFR Gauge

I've read everything I can find and looked at the wiring diagrams for a Mini, since the AEM gauge I have has a wideband output and is a named/supported source of an AFR signal in the Mini's instructions it looks like I can use that instead of upgrading to a Street which has a built in wideband controller. The AEM gauge has an analog output, but also a CAN bus output - is there any particular advantage to using one over the other, other than use of the CAN bus input would mean being able to "save" the analogue input for something else?

WIRING QUESTIONS:
Since the wasted spark setup I have is working fine, I don't see a need to change it - am I correct in thinking the outputs on the Mini for coils 1&3 and 2&4 will be spliced together and connected to the relevant inputs on the Miata ignitor?

OUTPUTS:

Only 4 to play with and one is taken by the rev counter.

1. Idle air control - I've got the standard 940 unit in place. I assume this can be connected to one of the outputs - does it need a relay? is there a wiring diagram for this you can share?

2. Boost control solenoid - again I assume this can be connected to one of the outputs - does it need a relay? is there a wiring diagram?

3. Fuel Pump - appears easy enough to wire up

4. Rev Counter

(if there was one more output I'd connect the radiator fan to it - or is there another way of driving the rev counter?)

SENSORS:
Crank Sensor - standard 940 with the 60-2 flywheel, I understand this is fine

Throttle position switch - I'll get the conversion bracket and fit a Volvo 850 one

Ecu temperature sensor - is the standard volvo one ok, or does this need to be changed for the Maxxecu branded one?

Intake temperature sensor - Need to buy this, open to suggestions on where to mount it - I've assumed part way down the intercooler pipe pre-throttle body

Any comments?

Cheers

EDIT:

a bit more googling:

1. The idle air valve connection got answered earlier in this thread- 12v to the valve and ground through one of the Mini outputs (anything I should know about configuring it?)

2. Boost solenoid is similarly simple:

Boost solenoids

Boost solenoid (s) are not polarity sensitive. Wire 1: +12V Wire 2: GPO (GND) Single solenoid valve Solenoid for boost control (MAC 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA), +12v, 19Hz. Produ

www.maxxecu.com

3. Fuel pump is easy

4. Looks like I can drive the rev counter from the coilpack, so the radiator fan can take the last output.

So that just leaves the coil outputs to miata igniter wiring question, the ecu temp sensor question and the location of the intake air temp sensor question.

Then… is there a basemap to get started?

Cheers

 

[OttoB]

Can you use ignition output for idle control?

 

[bugjam1999]

Ok, so a bit more googling and it looks like this:

TachAdapter - Autosport Labs

wiki.autosportlabs.com

Will solve the rev counter question.

So that frees up the 4th output to use for the radiator fan.

Cheers

 

[bugjam1999]

So, continuing the thinking…

I’ve got this engine loom for a 2.4lh 240 which I got ages ago in case I ever swapped to standalone. I’ve identified which bits I need and which bits I can discard (bye bye MAF!) as well as which bits need to change a bit- mainly the injectors, since they’re batch fired in 2.4lh land but need individual wires for Maxxecu.

Current thinking is to terminate all the wires from the loom a suitable distance (most I’ll be able to do is about 4/5inches) past the firewall plug, then cut the supplied loom that’ll come with the mini down quite drastically and connect everything up in a carefully labelled connection box (which might resemble semi-organised chaos).

Reasoning is that the volvo loom wires are pretty stout, so I can’t see me being able to add molex connectors to them and plug them into a spare molex connector to connect directly to the ecu (also, have you seen how expensive molex connector tools are?!) and there seems limited value in creating a loom completely from scratch when I already have this one (which also has things like the starter motor/oil pressure/alternator exciter wire/8 pin bulkhead connector as part of it).

Alternatively I could run the volvo loom to a bulkhead connector and then make a short loom to go inside the car from the bulkhead connector to the ecu, so if anyone has any suggestions for one of those that’d work I’ll look into it.

Any comments?

Cheers

 

[Superhans240]

So, continuing the thinking…

I’ve got this engine loom for a 2.4lh 240 which I got ages ago in case I ever swapped to standalone. I’ve identified which bits I need and which bits I can discard (bye bye MAF!) as well as which bits need to change a bit- mainly the injectors, since they’re batch fired in 2.4lh land but need individual wires for Maxxecu.

Current thinking is to terminate all the wires from the loom a suitable distance (most I’ll be able to do is about 4/5inches) past the firewall plug, then cut the supplied loom that’ll come with the mini down quite drastically and connect everything up in a carefully labelled connection box (which might resemble semi-organised chaos).

Reasoning is that the volvo loom wires are pretty stout, so I can’t see me being able to add molex connectors to them and plug them into a spare molex connector to connect directly to the ecu (also, have you seen how expensive molex connector tools are?!) and there seems limited value in creating a loom completely from scratch when I already have this one (which also has things like the starter motor/oil pressure/alternator exciter wire/8 pin bulkhead connector as part of it).

Alternatively I could run the volvo loom to a bulkhead connector and then make a short loom to go inside the car from the bulkhead connector to the ecu, so if anyone has any suggestions for one of those that’d work I’ll look into it.

Any comments?

Cheers

Any combination of looms will work.... just make splices wherever they will be more stout then all the old wire and connectors. Also molex can be worked with cheaper tools. Pin release can be done with staples even... crimping the pins just do your research I believe Brett pointed someone in the right direction recently. All in to buy a molex, pins tools and txl wire to make a loom would be about 150-200$

 

[Flo]

Hi guys,
I build a b230 2.5L 16v na for my amazon and find a Novegian company that makes many redblock specific parts including the cam timing sensor bracket at the fuel pump location. I like the idea because I can't use the distributor location on Amazon.

https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1392217007628414&id=242802712569855&set=a.384541698395955&refid=13&__tn__=+=

They sold beautiful CNC plenum too.

https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1570021326514647&id=242802712569855&set=a.384541698395955&refid=13&__tn__=%2B

>

 

[OttoB]

I have wired 93 240 for Maxxecu. Completely removed engine wiring harness and made completely new. There are maybe 6 wires for engine (temp, oil, solenoid, bat, charge) so it was not that much work.

By firewall we used Volvo gray connector and little soldering.
The 9-pin connector by ECU and ICU can be found easily.

Other components

Lh2.4 idle control valve
850 TPS
VW coil
Bosch (Volvo 850) boost control valve
Volvo own trigger
Electric fan

 

[OttoB]

Hi guys,
I build a b230 2.5L 16v na for my amazon and find a Novegian company that makes many redblock specific parts including the cam timing sensor bracket at the fuel pump location. I like the idea because I can't use the distributor location on Amazon.

https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1392217007628414&id=242802712569855&set=a.384541698395955&refid=13&__tn__=+=

They sold beautiful CNC plenum too.

https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1570021326514647&id=242802712569855&set=a.384541698395955&refid=13&__tn__=%2B

>

For that sensor you need to cut fuel pump lobe, from round to teeth. Then you need to adjust sensor gap. That cam sensor is not a bolt on thing.

Product could be much better if it was designed with adjustable shims.

 

[poulrais]

Which EGT probe is compatible with MaxxECU Race? Would a universal probe with a 2 wires output do the job? I need 6 probes for the T6 and was thinking about buying these:

Pyrometer Gauges Replacement Exhaust Gas Temperature EGT Probe 842559109427 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Pyrometer Gauges Replacement Exhaust Gas Temperature EGT Probe at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.ca

 

[OttoB]

K-type, I would say this is ok.

 

[bugjam1999]

Hi all,

Ok, mini ordered and mapping session booked for the 1st April. Sensors and other bits are starting to arrive, I'll make a start on the loom this week.

I have a few specific questions - can anyone help, or point me to someone/somewhere that can?

1. Wiring for wasted spark - I cannot find an answer to this. There are 4 ignition outputs on the mini and I have an ignition amplifier that has two inputs, one for cylinders 2&3 and one for cylinders 1&4. How do I wire this up?

2. I bought the recommended bosch ecu temp sensor, which I can swap into the head, but alternatively is possible to use the standard 940 ecu temp sensor? only as that would remove the need to swap it.

3. I understand how to wire up the standard idle air control valve, but I don't know how to configure it. Also, the butterfly in the throttle body is currently set up to be just slightly cracked open at idle, should that be readjusted to close completely?

4. I've downloaded the basemap for a turbo B230 from Maxxecu's website and had a look through it, apart from changing the injector settings to suit mine and setting up the 4 outputs I've left the rest unchanged. Any comments on the basemap from Maxxecu or the other settings it has - crank trigger, etc.?

Cheers

 

[OttoB]

1. What amp you have?

2. Blue connector temperature sensor is grounded via pin, black through the body.

3. Open throttle so that warm engine idles around 750 rpm with blocked ICV. Then set target to 800 rpm so valve doesn't have to work too much. I can check PWM and pid settings, if needed.

 

[bugjam1999]

1. What amp you have?

2. Blue connector temperature sensor is grounded via pin, black through the body.

3. Open throttle so that warm engine idles around 750 rpm with blocked ICV. Then set target to 800 rpm so valve doesn't have to work too much. I can check PWM and pid settings, if needed.

1. I’ve got a miata J702T wired up as the attached diagram, which is from the wasted spark board how to thread- actually I remember now I see the diagram that it also runs the tach, so another reason to keep it for simplicity

2. The wiring for the temperature sensor i understand, I’m wondering if the original 2.4lh temp sensor can be retained. No worries if not, I can swap it for the recommended maxxecu one I’ve purchased

3. Great, thanks - can set the idle following those instructions

4. If you could take a look and check the settings that’d be much appreciated, I’m trying to make the swap over as painless as possible- I’ll also be away from home when I swap it over, just to add to the fun.

Cheers

 

[OttoB]

You first have to figure out is that grounded or +5V controlled amplifier and set parameters accordingly.

Then just put firing order 1342 to mtune, and cylinders 1+4 for ignout1 and 2+3 is used ignout2

Idle
50 Hz PWM
P =4
I= 0,1
D= 0,1

850 rpm was the target, smooth idle with A cam.

 

[bugjam1999]

Hi,

The amplifier is +5v controlled.

I've set up the firing order and set the ignition setup to wasted spark, but for each ignition output it's only possible to select one cylinder, if I select a second cylinder then the checkbox clears for the first one I selected.

What am I missing?

Also, which settings did you mean here:

P =4
I= 0,1
D= 0,1

?

I only seem to have a hz setting for the idle solenoid, which I've set to 50 Hz PWM as you suggested.

Cheers

 

[OttoB]

PID values are for closed loop idle control.

For ignition:
Go to ign output, then just select "ignition output" for both Ign1 and Ign2.

 

[OttoB]

Settings that I used