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MaxxECU Questions and Support/Purchase: Post them here

Ok great - I think I'm pretty much there.

Thanks for sharing the settings you used. One difference though - the Maxxecu basemap has the trigger angle degrees before TDC for cylinder 1 set at 86 degrees, you have it set at 90 degrees. The only reference I can find to that angle after a quick google is a reference to it on Dave Barton's site, that states 90 degrees.

Any idea why maxxecu might have it at 86?

Thanks again
 
Our damper and cam cover was not that good shape so we couldn't check if the trigger angle was correct.

We did mapping on crank dyno we just adjusted ignition timing to achieve best torque. Timing table looked okay and we were happy.

But if I remember correctly we tested solid 15 deg advance and had timing marks on flywheel for that and strobo flashed at right time.

But if Maxxecu suggest 86 deg, I would choose that.
 
Ok,

One more question - the pressure hose from the inlet manifold for the inboard MAP sensor. I bought this kit:


And although the screw on fitting is the correct size to replace a blank on the inlet manifold, no combination of the parts for the other end fits the nipple for the MAP sensor on the mini. Suggestions please - Bodge in a bridging piece with a short piece of 4mm silicone? or use 4mm silicone all the way from the mini to the inlet manifold?

Cheers
 
It runs! The ecu wouldn’t connect initially, just kept turning on and off- turns out I’d forgotten to connect the ecu earth, d’oh.

The basemap worked well enough although a bit rich and I drove it to be mapped on Saturday morning. Made 258.9hp with the injectors and the boost solenoid maxxed out, so I’ve been looking at bigger injectors and stronger wastegate springs online…

One small issue, we struggled with the idle air control valve; the duty setting was the reverse of what the tuner was expecting- more duty made the idle drop until 90 or so duty at which point the idle shot up to 2000rpm. Any suggestions why that might be? Or is the volvo one just the opposite to others (tuner had only seen one redblock before, so he didn’t have much experience with them).

Now I need to set the cold start up…

Cheers
 
I have a good guess what's going on. If you look at a LH2.4 IAC valve, you'll see that when un-powered (aka 0% PWM) one side of the shutter is slightly open. This is a limp-home mode. As the shutter rotates (as the PWM% increases) the shutter first closes, then the other side starts to open up. As the rotation continues, it opens wider and wider.

I'm guessing that you tuned over the narrow IAC opening window, instead of the big opening span. You need to bump up the minimum PWM until the big window starts to open. That should give you a bigger range of airflow and, as expected, increasing the PWM % will increase the flow.
 
Interesting, I didn't know that. Current settings are below:

The current setting for idle control is "idle stepper duty 20%" in test mode, ie it's not referencing anything else, it's just 20% duty.

Then the setting for the idle PWM solenoid on the output is "PMW frequency 150Hz"
Surely at 20% duty the stepper motor is rotated way past the small opening and into the bigger opening?

I can certainly try different things, including the settings which OttoB kindly shared previously.

So, next question- cold start enrichment, which of course the tuner couldn’t set up as the engine wasn’t cold… any comments on the current settings and/or how I should set about setting up the cold starts?

Cheers
 

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Hello, today I started to install my MaxxEcu Street on my 945 B230FK 1998.
This is my first programmable management.
I have a Top Dead Center signal (VR 60-2)
I have the engine temperature
I have a TPS signal (of 850)
I tried to test the ignition but no spark.
To start I decided to keep the distributor. I will later switch to a wasted spark with camshaft sensor for sequential.
I connected the +12V to the + of the coil and the blue "ignition cyl 1" to the - of the coil. Without going through the original volvo amp.
Is the connection correct?
I may have made a mistake on MTune.
The problem is that I have no spark at the spark plugs.
Thanks in advance.
Matt from France.
 
Do you know how to hook it up?
I found this so far:
1: coil control signal output ( - )
5: coil signal input (from MaxxEcu)
3: ???
2: Ground
4: + after contact
It's good ? You can help me ?
 
It runs! The ecu wouldn’t connect initially, just kept turning on and off- turns out I’d forgotten to connect the ecu earth, d’oh.

The basemap worked well enough although a bit rich and I drove it to be mapped on Saturday morning. Made 258.9hp with the injectors and the boost solenoid maxxed out, so I’ve been looking at bigger injectors and stronger wastegate springs online…

One small issue, we struggled with the idle air control valve; the duty setting was the reverse of what the tuner was expecting- more duty made the idle drop until 90 or so duty at which point the idle shot up to 2000rpm. Any suggestions why that might be? Or is the volvo one just the opposite to others (tuner had only seen one redblock before, so he didn’t have much experience with them).

Now I need to set the cold start up…

Cheers
Set the output as PWM idle valve inverted. If you need help setting it up, send me a message and i will login to your computer and fix it for you.
 
I saw the basemaps on MaxcEcu website for the turbos and was wondering if anyone had one for a NA B230F. If not, any idea on what sort of tweaks am I going to need to do?
 
Hey guys,

to start I'm totally new to the self tuning and especially stand alone ECU setups. I'm not new to custom setups like intercoolers, piping, intakes rebuilding turbos etc. So I am not afraid to learn and take on new advanced projects.

My issue is I can't leave my car alone I am constantly upgrading and changing everything from factory to my own setup 😅 I am done with off the shelf tuning as finding tuners is hard and I want to be the one to do everything myself. I want to go Maxxecu so I can learn the tuning world, I have a friend who has years of experience tuning turbo cars with megasquirt holley etc. We both would be new to the Maxxecu world. I am not afraid of wiring or digging into cutting and refitting connectors etc. My friend also has huge experience doing wiring and harnesses which is a big + for me.

My main question leans towards will the Maxxecu Street be enough for my Volvo 850 T5? I have a pretty decent list of what I have done in terms of upgrades. Is there anyone who has Maxxecu as a piggyback (I believe that's the term) with their stock ECU to run some of the basic functions or is it better to just completely run the Volvo system with just Maxxecu? I would prefer a complete new setup and just run the standalone and just get rid of the M4.4 ECU all together but not sure what's easiest and best. All the info will be excellent I am prepared to ask a million questions. Thanks for taking the time to read.

-SlavikaT5
 
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Good Day , A few things to clear the air before i start and sound completely stupid
I just love the 240 Brick style so i bought a 1989 240 GL , possible the only good one left in my country , This is my first time taking on a build.

I found possible again , the only 940 B234F (16v) in my country , i guess you can see where im going with this.

The only problem is that my 240 has a B200 K-jetronic system,
Im trying to figure out
if i swap the heads can i run the new set up fully off of a maxxecu or megasquirt or what.
what is the best ecu for my application?
Do i have to use the ecu in the car already ?
do i have to piggy back?
 
Hi guys,
I build a b230 2.5L 16v na for my amazon and find a Novegian company that makes many redblock specific parts including the cam timing sensor bracket at the fuel pump location. I like the idea because I can't use the distributor location on Amazon.

https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1392217007628414&id=242802712569855&set=a.384541698395955&refid=13&__tn__=+=

They sold beautiful CNC plenum too.

>
That’s what I was asking about in my thread. Any mods to the fuel pump cam lobe?
 
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