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MaxxECU Questions and Support/Purchase: Post them here

Also, where is an IDEAL PLACE to Mount the ECU and WILL the 3 meter SUPPLIED WIRING REACH the Necessary Components from this location...Would be GREAT if could be mounted in the Engine Bay for Close Convenience but Not sure HOW it Plays well with the HEAT...
 
Does that DOUBLE-FIRE COIL 2×2 play Well with the B230ft Motor? Are the Dwell times SIMILAR? I have a Bosch 2×2 Coil NOW (NEW & UNTESTED) but I like the IDEA of an Integrated Ignition Amplifier to just be able to CONDEMN the whole piece if/When there is an issue....AND it IS Very inexpensive for that 2-N-1 PART...
 
If I comprehended ELECTRICAL Diagrams and the lingo, I dont think I would be Wasting my time here...I get it that YOU may not be helpful, so PLEASE ALLOW those who are...Im SURE that You have not gotten to where you are WITHOUT the help/assistance of others...Allow ME to Grow & blossom just as you have...Thank you and Happy Holidays...
 
What exactly is it about the wiring diagram or lingo that you don’t understand?

The diagram is pretty straightforward. Power, ground, sensors, etc are all marked out on the diagram.

From ReADinG through all your posts, it sounds like you just want it to run, and you don’t really care to use the original harness? So maybe try to start there. Remove all the harness that you don’t need. So remove the injector, coolant temp (CLT), intake air temp (IAT), idle control valve (IAC), ignition wiring including the crank sensor wiring. Wire the maxx in from scratch. If you look at both wiring diagrams, you could probably mount it in the same location as current, and use the factory harness to provide power to the ecu, injectors, and coils.
 
If Im removing all of the original harness, then how am I using the factory harness to provide Power....This in itself sounds like a contradiction here....Either its removed or its there...Had to repair/replace broken connectors and burnt wires that connect to the positive battery clamp and discovered that One/Some of those RED WIRES control whether the car even gets POWER at all; connected battery terminals while everything was apart and the ignition had No power at all so would like to change/replace/remove what I dont need...I believe some of those red wires run to the ignition switch...There are like 3 red wires with 1 being more heavier gauge than the others...The Copper Tab that Crimped them together had broken so I fabbed up a way to make it work and the power was restored to the ignition....I want to repair this correctly before proceeding with anything..
 
Im still waiting on the UPS as of now so dont know if any wires come with the KIT that ties straight to the battery for the ecu; would be great if it does...
 
Could/Would the Maxxecu Relay & fuse Panel help by Separating the Fuel and Ignition from the Factory fuse panel and if so, what to do with the old wiring...Wouldnt want a charge interrupting the other circuits that powers the lights, wipers etc...I believe that I can handle the harness wires that goes to the components...What wires power the fuse panel itself?
 
Maybe now is a good time to learn how to read a wiring diagram. Stock ecu gets power from something, stock injectors get power from somewhere, stock fuel pump relay gets power from somewhere and triggered by the ecu. So turn off the caps lock and grab a multi meter.
 
Could/Would the Maxxecu Relay & fuse Panel help by Separating the Fuel and Ignition from the Factory fuse panel and if so, what to do with the old wiring...Wouldnt want a charge interrupting the other circuits that powers the lights, wipers etc...I believe that I can handle the harness wires that goes to the components...What wires power the fuse panel itself?

What car? Model and year?

Sorry to say but your task seems to be unreachable for this given time (one week). Especially when you have illiterate issues with wiring diagrams.

Try to get everything organized on paper and understand main function of the "things"
 
What car? Model and year?

Sorry to say but your task seems to be unreachable for this given time (one week). Especially when you have illiterate issues with wiring diagrams.

Try to get everything organized on paper and understand main function of the "things"
‘94 940 lh2.4…
 
Car is 1994 Volvo 940 turbo LH2.4....Maxx came late yesterday so I didnt unbox until this morning....I can see the Printed function on the wiring, however because it is electrical in nature, I still have questions...I can READ VOLTS and feel comfortable doing so on a multimeter...I have a multimeter...I also have fried components from Misusing a multimeter and is why I have questions as well as my own doubts and just accepted that I dont Trust my electrical work...Sure, I can splice wire and tie pos to pos, neg to neg etc...Along with that, I also installed my own cylinder head after shop rebuild, swapped & shimmed my cam, Disassemble my own M90 to have the 3rd gear stop rind Welded and then reassembled and installed with All new parts from hydraulic pedals to shifter & gearbox bushings, install my own fuel pump (in-tank & main), installed my own receiver so I think I am quite Capable of many things which Doesnt include what I do for a living...I comprehend the theory of the complete circuit of electricity but that makes me no master electrician....Even experts can Learn from the experts...
 
Think Im gonna spend the day by pulling the wiring from the engine bay so I can see a clear path more easily....Ordered EV1 style fittings for the injectors so that I dont have to mutilate the original harness...I have connectors for the Bosch 2×2 coil and the 2-Channel Huco 13 8401 Amplifier and the wiring to both is already in shielded braided cover..I have an 850 throttle sensor and bracket in the pipeline to add to the mixing bowl....Ive read in the previous pages about the iat sensor can Either go in the intake manifold Or just "Dangle loose?"....I suppose 1 will definitely be much cooler than the other....Does 1 method has benefits over the other? There was also mention of a different coolant temp sensor but I never got what the consensus was...
 
Think Im gonna spend the day by pulling the wiring from the engine bay so I can see a clear path more easily....Ordered EV1 style fittings for the injectors so that I dont have to mutilate the original harness...I have connectors for the Bosch 2×2 coil and the 2-Channel Huco 13 8401 Amplifier and the wiring to both is already in shielded braided cover..I have an 850 throttle sensor and bracket in the pipeline to add to the mixing bowl....Ive read in the previous pages about the iat sensor can Either go in the intake manifold Or just "Dangle loose?"....I suppose 1 will definitely be much cooler than the other....Does 1 method has benefits over the other? There was also mention of a different coolant temp sensor but I never got what the consensus was...
Iat goes in the intake air stream. It monitors incoming air temp to allow fuel compensation for air temperature.

You can use whatever clt sensor you want as long as you have calibration data. The consensus is use what fits, and has accurate calibration data.

In order to help us help you, we need to know what questions you have. So what exactly do you not know about the wire harness?
 
I saved All Year to gift myself this at xmas time and Im just not interested in blowing it up on connection..My issues are that I know that I want to run the fuel pumps to the maxx as well and because of the 2 (in-tank & main) and the Fuel System Relay that control them, where to tie-into the Power; at the system relay itself, the wiring leading into the relay? What to do with the other wires connected to the relay?
 
Also my speedometer is not working and I cleaned the back of the diff cover, renewed the wiring, and removed, cleaned and reinstalled the sensor and still no dice..Also 1 of the connectors in the wire loom (has Blue connection on both sides) doesnt slide together...Has battery, starter etc printed on the wires...The edge of the interior connector is blocked by the blue of the outside part of the other connector, tried gently pushing it in but was afraid of applying too much pressure..
 
Below is the standard wiring diagram for a MicroSquirt. Maxx should have something very similar. If you can find it and post it here, you may get better responses.

For most installs, you remove the factory engine harness, the factory main/fuel relays, and the factory engine fuses then replace them with your own harness, relays, and fuses.
Microsquirt_Hardware-3.4015.png
 
Thank you so much for responding...Im sure I will have plenty more questions as I turn the corners but I have more than enough work to do right now in getting started...Im in no rush to get there, though it would be Great to hear her Sing by the New Year....
 
But the Maxx Sport Premium didnt include fuses or relays...They do have a 5-Relay, 6-fuse Panel for sale and was wondering if that was for to wire the fuel & ignition on its own panel...
 
Im not technically savvy to know how to post pictures unless Im taking a photo and send it to my contacts...
 
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