• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

MaxxECU Questions and Support/Purchase: Post them here

But the Maxx Sport Premium didnt include fuses or relays...They do have a 5-Relay, 6-fuse Panel for sale and was wondering if that was for to wire the fuel & ignition on its own panel...
This is where I think you are losing the forest through the trees. Your stock system has a fuel pump relay. The main power and ground are there, the trigger came from the ecu, so the maxx can trigger your stock pump wiring.

Your stock injectors have a fused power, and are triggered by the ecu grounding them, so you have power for injectors, you just need the trigger from the maxx.
 
Cwdodson88; think I mentioned that in an earlier post but also asked the question of what to do with the other wires on the fuel system relay....There are 6 pins and 6 wires ; 2 bl/yllw which are tied together, pink, red, black and brown...
 
I also realized that I need to order some Heat resistant cable wrap or something to cover the included maxx wire loom itself..Im nowhere near prepared, got to get my ducks in order 1st....Majority of the factory wiring under the dash is Bare wire until it comes out into the engine compartment, is this ok or should I cover it anyhow...Wouldnt mind using tie straps on the Inside to keep the wiring together..
 
Cwdodson88; think I mentioned that in an earlier post but also asked the question of what to do with the other wires on the fuel system relay....There are 6 pins and 6 wires ; 2 bl/yllw which are tied together, pink, red, black and brown...
Look at a wiring diagram. There’s a couple wires that are power, ground, trigger.

The trigger, is connected to the ecu. This can be used to have the maxx handle fuel pump control, or wired to a switch. Verify what pin# on the relay and that will tell you if the relay is positive triggered or negative triggered. Wire accordingly.

The stock fuel pump relay provides power to other components. Look at a wire diagram and determine if you are keeping or removing them. Wire accordingly.

For wire covering… I would recommend you get it all laid out, then either wrap it with some Tesa’s tape or, raychem heat shrink. But, get it all laid out, rough trimmed, then remove it and wrap before reinstalling.

Or, if you’re going for something classy, get some raychem, shrink tube the whole thing, then cover in paracord. If you gently heat the paracord, it remains flexible, but hardens to a shell for good abrasion resistance on a budget.
 
1. Bosch ECT sensor, bolt on
2. 1/8 NPT IAT sensor, a bit expensive but bolt on to the intake manifold. Just remove a plug. Can be founded else where, till exempel JEGs with connector
3. Bosch IAT. Needs drilling (and removing) to the manifold. But cheaper.

Bosch 2x2 is good, but extra work with no benefits compared to that VW coil.

To simplify wiring, use stock Fuel pump relay and LH pin 20

For main relay control LH pin 35

Constant +12 LH pin 4

Do you have electric fan?
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_2023-12-23-18-57-07-74_40deb401b9ffe8e1df2f1cc5ba480b12.jpg
    Screenshot_2023-12-23-18-57-07-74_40deb401b9ffe8e1df2f1cc5ba480b12.jpg
    552.3 KB · Views: 10
  • Screenshot_2023-12-23-19-15-08-13_40deb401b9ffe8e1df2f1cc5ba480b12.jpg
    Screenshot_2023-12-23-19-15-08-13_40deb401b9ffe8e1df2f1cc5ba480b12.jpg
    369.3 KB · Views: 11
I've not rewired a 940 or 740, but you'll need to make a basic decision on how you rewire it:
a) do you splice into the existing wires at the LH2.4 and EZK connectors, with extra wires added as needed?
b) or do you add new wiring and connectors for everything, including fuses and relays?
c) or do you mix and match?

If you're doing b), do you just cut off and tape (or shrink wrap) the old wires, or do you try to remove the wires up to the closest connector?

Maybe someone who's converted a 740/940 to an aftermarket ECU can chime in with what's easiest or what's best?
 
Thanks to all for the community support...I accomplished nothing today except for disconnecting connectors...I am struggling to separate the connctors under the left side strut tower to be able to separate the engine loom...Its very tight in that area and its almost like those connectors are glued together cause I dont think they even budged a little trying to separate them to pull out the wire loom...My Radio suppression relay wiring is shot (rubber broke down inside connector so just have pins directly connected to the relay...This is why I am afraid to use the factory harness to reach the components in the engine bay...Fuel system relay pin holder is also broken and I have the wires directly connected ro the system relay....May have to go the route of cutting the loom to clear the path for the new wiring....Questions; Will the Radio Suppresion Relay be needed with the Maxx? I know that it is used to turn on the injectors in the factory setup but the Maxx has its own injector wires...Also, will the Fuel Injector Resistor be needed with the Maxx? I believe that it what it is called; it sits inside the left inner wing near the ignition amplifier for the High or Low Z injectors....I apologize for the silly questions but I promise that I am taking in all the collective knowledge to gain a more thorough comprehension of whats going on...I believe I would be a master electrician if I had an hour of hands-on training with the multimeter; its that I just dont trust my judgements committedly on my own after having made costly mistakes before....Thank you and Happy Holidays to Everyone and their families...I have come to realize and accept that I may not be able to have my car singing by the New Year but that is ok with me...I will eventually have my day where I also can type that It " Its Alive" as the other members have...I know that must be a great feeling...
 
OttoB: does that 1/8npt bolt-on iat sensor for the manifold works better than an intercooler pipe iat sensor? Thinking that the air is much warmer in the intake than the intercooler pipe...Also, does the VW Coil with integrated amplifier play well with the Maxx? Ive read in other posts that the dwell times of the coils must be somewhat close..I personally like the VW Coil better as well...Also, when you say to simplify wiring, use stock fuel pump relay and lh pin 20, 35 & 4, do I Remove/Cut the wires going to the ecu box and splicing to the Maxx wires? Once again, I apologize for the silly questions but this is exactly where I dont trust my own judgement/thinking yet Im willing to learn and can gain understanding...What is the difference between the fuel pump relay and main relay control that you mentioned? Do either go by a different name? I Do have electric fan on the vehicle...I really appreciate you for taking the time in helping this make sense...Are you starting from the ecu as that is where the wires originate from to use the existing wire? This is starting to make sense here...I would need a Dave Barton Fuel Injector Relay connector and Pigtail to clean up my wiring if I were to do this; would also need a fuel system relay connector with pigtail to clean that up as well...Im not familiar with the c3 connector but was unable to disconnect the connectors at the left strut tower today to remove the engine wire loom so everything is still intact except the disconnected component connectors...I wasnt able to get any work done today but I am more knowleddeable now than I was when I woke up this morning and I want to thank everyone who took the time to be patient with my questions...I will be re-reading the information provided until it becomes 2nd nature to gain more confidence and feel comfortable about my approach...I will be back at it tomorrow...Another question; is it necessary to wrap (Cover) the wires running under the dash or the interior as the factory wires are pretty much bare? I still have to get some kind of Heat-resistant wrap to cover the wires as it enters the engine compartment...Maybe I wouldnt need to if I used part of the existing harness but I have hacked wiring here and there and rather have a fresh start if possible...
bobxyz; I am literally STUCK right where you are pointing: to Use or not to use some/part/all of the existing wiring...My wires are bare and loose at the fuel system relay and fuel injector relay...Then there is the ballast resistor that is tied in with that and Im not sure if that is need with the Maxx...Id rather lose whatever is not needed and dont mind if I ran new wire straight to the engine bay...
 
Does anyone have any suggestions or leads on engine bay heat-resistant wiring wrap and which wires need to be shielded...I have shielded covering on the coil and amplifier wiring already....
 
Does anyone have any suggestions or leads on engine bay heat-resistant wiring wrap and which wires need to be shielded...I have shielded covering on the coil and amplifier wiring already....
Tesa tape or raychem.

The only ones that need shielding are the crank or cam signals and wideband. The shielding is noted on the wiring diagram
 
VW coil works.
My experience with IAT location is that on crossflow engines there is not much heat soak to the sensor.
Temperatures are pretty close to each other. I had actually 3 different locations.

I use Schlepp products (tubes and fittings) for my wire protection. Easier than shrink tube to correct mistakes.
 
Ok, Im looking to get something done tomorrow...Organized the Maxx Sport Premium flying harness wires today according to color and some according to function...Also been watchinhg electrical tutorial videos and reading old blogs...Since my Fuel system relay wiring is hacked and I have concerns about that relay and the Amperage draw on the system, I would like to run a 4 or 5 pole relay to control each fuel pump...Car is 1994 Volvo 940 turbo lh2.4 with main and intank pump running off of the 6-pin white fuel system relay...How would I go about doing this and tying it into the Maxx Sport flying lead harness wiring...And are there any more connections to be made while the flying lead harness is still inside the vehicle before exiting into the engine compartment...I still wasnt able to remove the engine side harness connectors under the left strut tower but am willing to cut it if necessary when I get there...Please help me drag this thing along; you' ll have a friend for life...
 
Im still waiting on a few pieces (sensors) for the engine side but have much work to do than just sit and wait....Maxx is mounted in original ecu location and flying lead harness wires are somewhat organized and wrapped for simplicity...Whats my next move, what would you be doing from here? I think it would get more simpler once I get the flying lead harness in the engine bay to wire in the sensors....
 
There are no wires in the Maxx Sport Flying lead harness labeled fuel pump/s and I have Both pumps (in-tank & main) on the car...Fuel Pump system Relay wire colors are 2-Blue/Yellow wires, blk/yellow, pink, red and brown...Would it be best to put the fuel and ignition wires on its own separate fuse/relay panel?
 
Back
Top