My 1981 242 DL

[adomz]

 

[adomz]

Will try to make a video of gluing it all back together today

 

[adomz]

Here's some pics of the fab and welding. I know it's not the prettiest, and still needs redoing in some places as there's some pin holes and very thin material, but all in all, it's good enough as noone will see it when it's under the carpets etc...

 

[adomz]

A bit more...

 

[adomz]

Here's a short live stream i did in my garage yesterday drilling out a few spot welds n one of the interior panels where the seats bolt to...

Oh yeah, i am chatting to TurboWorld of all peeps. Great dude!

 

[adomz]

 

[lookforjoe]

Coming along!

Are you using a quality body seam caulk on all your (non-visible) weld seams? That will help keep your repairs from future rot...

Looks like you could turn down the wire speed a tad - you appear to be getting more buildup on your tack welds than is needed for the gauge metal used. Would make for less heat into the material & grind work after...

 

[adomz]

Coming along!

Are you using a quality body seam caulk on all your (non-visible) weld seams? That will help keep your repairs from future rot...

Looks like you could turn down the wire speed a tad - you appear to be getting more buildup on your tack welds than is needed for the gauge metal used. Would make for less heat into the material & grind work after...

Hey!

Cheers for the tips. What you mean about the caulk? I am not using nothing yet. Any links?

The speed was to fast, yes, it's been adjusted now, so it should be all good.

Appreciate the heads up!

Adam

 

[lookforjoe]

Hey!

Cheers for the tips. What you mean about the caulk? I am not using nothing yet. Any links?

The speed was to fast, yes, it's been adjusted now, so it should be all good.

Appreciate the heads up!

Adam

This is the one I usually use

This one is also good, but slower curing

They are paintable, and can be used over primer

Areas like this , you may want to use a very fine bondo - U-Pol Gold for example, will take care of the small depressions & prevent moisture issues



similar to my situation here:

U-Pol gold is fine enough to just fill as needed

 

[adomz]

This is the one I usually use

This one is also good, but slower curing

They are paintable, and can be used over primer

Areas like this , you may want to use a very fine bondo - U-Pol Gold for example, will take care of the small depressions & prevent moisture issues

View attachment 20631

similar to my situation here:

U-Pol gold is fine enough to just fill as needed

Cheers dude!

All those imperfections are already gone as i have gone over all of them with a die grinder and deleted them all, plus filled the pin holes etc.

It's already primered and i'd say done. Now i will need to treat the inside of that piece somehow, so it will be interesting to find something that can deal with it all.

Now i am dealing with the floorpan of the car. Already removed the panel that the seats bolt into, to reveal the full floor and the rusty holes lol. Pics to follow soon!

Cheers, Adam

 

[lookforjoe]

Spray this inside the body cavities (or equivalent)

 

[adomz]

Spray this inside the body cavities (or equivalent)

Yeah, that stuff, already ordered a few cans, can't wait!

 

[adomz]

Let's have a laugh... At some idiotic drivers lol

 

[adomz]

I have finally found the front offcuts for the front two rails to replace the rotten under battery tray rail and inner wings! Yes!

Pictures to follow!

 

[3wagons]

I have finally found the front offcuts for the front two rails to replace the rotten under battery tray rail and inner wings! Yes!

Pictures to follow!

Nice. I think I took about 50 measurements before I started on that rail section. Not a fun area.

 

[adomz]

Nice. I think I took about 50 measurements before I started on that rail section. Not a fun area.

I bet it wasn't a fun part lol. I just came back from the garage as i welded a piece of square section in between the rails so it doesn't lose the geometry. Will make some measurements as i go, but it seems not that hard of a job.

Cheers!

 

[3wagons]

I bet it wasn't a fun part lol. I just came back from the garage as i welded a piece of square section in between the rails so it doesn't lose the geometry. Will make some measurements as i go, but it seems not that hard of a job.

Cheers!

I started to weld a piece of angle between the rails, but no issues with them moving.

 

[adomz]

I started to weld a piece of angle between the rails, but no issues with them moving.

Well, it's not the most stressed part of the shell and it doesn't rely that much of any bending etc

 

[adomz]

Just a quickie...

 

[bgpzfm142]

Just a quickie...

Not a quick repair, though.

Former fellow Tasmanian volvodriverman did a complete RH chassis rail replacement on his 242, but not due to rust.

The car had gotten a serious RHF hit at some point, and the panel shop didn't repair it as well as it could have been. As the car had sentimental value, he replaced the chassis rail and that got the wheel alignment all nice again. He posted pics of his repairs at one point (either on Oz Volvo or Farcebook), but unfortunately the pics he posted of the car here on TB were via PhotoExtortionBucket and don't appear any more.