Nick's diesel 245 project

[Lord_Athlon]

You are foolish to think a modified car holds any sort of value. The only reason Volvo's have a growing interest is because they have no value, they're cheap to obtain and not a big loss when they've expired. The case of my 245 is a perfect example.

A stock Volvo has more value than a modified one, that's because they are infinitely undesirable to the general public. Once you mod it, it loses transportation value. I'm with you.

 

[brendon_ak]

You are foolish to think a modified car holds any sort of value. The only reason Volvo's have a growing interest is because they have no value, they're cheap to obtain and not a big loss when they've expired. The case of my 245 is a perfect example.

Never meant to imply you can get out what you have into it. Was more trying to make a point that I'd rather buy a 2j motor and trans already mounted in a 245 rather than buy them separate.

I'm a huge fan, love your builds and look forward to the next!

 

[gross polluter]

In other news, rear end came apart tonight. Damage isn't what I expected, but it was certainly on its last leg. Ill post pictures later.

 

[UTAHGTBRICK]

nick can I buy some front end parts. IE the core support, the headlamps, a few bits?

 

[gross polluter]

Headlamps are being repurposed. You're welcome to take what you want off the car provided the following criteria:

-It doesn't affect the cars ability to roll and steer freely
-You come get it yourself
-Any parts removed off of the car must be done by this weekend, car gets sent off Monday.

 

[olov]

I still think my 242 would be better than the rustang for the engine. The rustang already had a decent motor.

+1 but for my own selfish reasons.

in the end, it's a car, you can always go back and do it again with another. you did a great job with the install on the 245, for that reason alone i'm interested in the rustang install(i'd do a turbo v8 before a turbo I6 though). i hope to one day do a cheaper version of yours(straight GE + t build, love love love the trans solution)

if the body were closer i'd take it to repair/replace my two 240's, hope someone gets some good parts off it before the crusher, it looked pretty straight

my .02 before this thread dies off/gets locked

 

[RasAdam_JAHMEN]

Getting there!

I needed to develop a quick and easy cam sensor solution to see if MS could run stable using the LH2.2 distributor and a single cam sensor. In other words, a 4/1 CAS.

This was my solution:

First I welded a tooth to the back of my cam gear for my sensor.

Then I welded a bracket to my valve cover and mounted the hall effect sensor. This particular sensor comes from a mid-90's 3.5l V6 Chrysler. I found many of these in the junk yard. It worked really well on the bench, we'll see how well it works on the car. And there it is, my cam sensor solution:

Time to see if it all works. I rigged up my sequential ECU to the car. I tapped into the signal coming off of my distributor and wired up the cam sensor. I set the ecu as a dual trigger toothed wheel, 4 and 1 both at cam speed. I started the car up and took a composite log:

Success!!!! The distributor and my cam sensor solution sync up just fine!

After that I set the ecu into COP mode and hooked up a coil to the #1 ignition output channel. I did this to get my trigger angles set with the timing light while the ecu is synced up to the engine. One less step to do when I actually install the ecu.

I took a guess based on where my cam trigger was located and was greeted with this surprise when I checked the timing with the timing light:

My guess was a degree off. I got the trigger angles set and now the ecu is ready to rock. I've ordered the stuff to make the wiring harness and will receive that some time next week. Next post will probably be the installation of the ecu!

This concept would work the same way with the LH 2.4 VR crank sensor instead of the LH 2.2 distributor hall sensor, right?