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NJGB Does LS Turbo Stuff - The Beast of Carol Anne

NJGreenBudd

Active member
Joined
Dec 25, 2013
Well, this will be a place for me to share my attempt at a now common theme. I'd like to say that when I planned most of this out years ago I didn't realize how many 240s already were out there with various levels of V8s and power adders. I remember reading the old jags that run manual on V8 conversion and I recognized that folks had been doing the SBC and Ford 5.0 swaps since they started making the 240s. I just didn't realize it had exploded to the current level of LS swap insanity, which is kinda amazing, it's hot rodding and I love seeing what folks have done with the spread of information like YouTube and Car Craft etc, Sloppy Mechanics and stuff makes this accessible to most gear handy folks. My hero amongst men, Michael Borggren, was the inspiration for me to pull the trigger. I have Soo much respect for you guys who are engineers and rocket scientist and can build cars like NASA builds satellites. This will be the most complex build I have attempted and I've set a goal of 10.xx seconds for $10k by the time she's done.

Some how I bought a complete LQ9 from a guy in Buffalo NY off Craigslist or something. $1000 shipped to NJ. Upon receiving the motor and inspection it was determined the motor was actually a LQ4 variant. Both are 364ci 6.0L iron block LS motors but the LQ4 has slightly lower compression pistons. I got a $200 refund from the guy to cover the cost of a set of used LQ9 pistons if I chose to swap them. At this point I think the lower compression won't matter at all and we'll put the money towards other parts. I'm not going to be keeping a hard budget but I'll try to note costs.

With a hunk of V8 awesomeness in the garage I started to ruminate about possiblly swapping it into my C4 Corvette or my grey 1992 240. I couldn't convince myself to kill my 240 and had plans for it to stay Red block but getting a +T K24 and M47 swap. It was too nice of a car and my first 240 and didn't want to lose it. My Vette has cool Crossfire Fuel Injection motor and I didn't want to ruin the nostalgia of that. So I looked on CL and found this white 1993 240 down the shore in NJ and went to pick it up with my Cummins dually and equipment trailer.

It was listed as non running and needed a new motor due to knocking. I went expecting to be able to pull it up on the trailer at least but it won't start, won't crank, all the wires are broke off the starter?? The PCV box was missing, hmm, I think someone salvaged a new PCV for one of the other 2 240s they had sitting there, idk but long story short I had to pull it up the trailer ramps, not meant for a Volvo wagon lol, with a 10 ton come along by hand . I actually paid $500 which I think was stupid as the lady was saying she was glad she didn't have to pay to get rid of it. This is after she had it listed for 2 months at $2700 for the car with blown motor. I had emailed and said if she ever got realistic I'd be interested but im not paying three times the amount inosid for my Running 240 lol. Anyways I guess we saved it from the crusher in the end and gave it a new life.

Towed home and stashed away until I got time to pull the old B230 and automatic transmission. I cut and welded the cross member but now not sure I had to do that, my mount kit said too but the TPS oil pan kit ($200) O think may have cleared without cutting, oh well, will have to see how it actually sits.

So I got the Griffin Performance LS Engine mounts ($200) and 4L80E Transmission 240 Chassis mounts ($135). Also used them for the 8.8 rear axle mounts ($299).

Picked up a local 4L80E with 70k miles for $1000, way more than I wanted to spend but prices seem to have gone up... eventually got a BTR converter for $300.

Elgin E-1840-P Sloppy Mechanics Stage 2 Camshaft for $275.

Tons of seals, bearings, couple small tools, rebuild parts like Summit high performance oil pump and billet roller timing set. ($$$)

The motor was torn down and inspected as best I could with some bore gauges and stuff and ultimately me and my father decided to get it machined to make the most of the build and give us a reliable and fast powerplant. Should be back from the machine shop any time now, lol, they are slow but very good. Went with stock bores, will do just a rehone at home and fresh moly rings. Using the stock rods and pistons. Had the heads and valves done, added PAC 1216 valve springs.

Turbo is a VS 7875 billet wheel unit ($640), building a single setup trying to use some Edlebrock tubular headers that came on tbe motor but might go cast truck manifolds depending on the piping for the crossover, planning to run dual 50mm waste gates. Probably just straight pipe out the rear, maybe a muffler and cutout, will see.

EMS is going to be Holley Terminator Max to control the 4L80E and handle the fueling and ignition tuning easily with new plug and plug harnesses. Will run premium pump gas, not doing E85 or anything. Will probably go deka injectors and Bosch pumps. Planning to use the stock truck intake and accessories.

I found a nice 10 pt (I think) 8.50 certified cage manufacturer locally in PA, will source the kit for ($350) and tig weld myself.

Going to do maybe some coilovers in the rear with the 8.8 and probably leave the front alone. I am planning to try to run my stock 1984 Corvette wheels which are 16x8.5 and 16x9.5. the sectioned rear axle should allow good choice of adapters to fit the wheels, I hope. Those wheels aren't good for much else, no major tire companies make street tires that fit, only track type tires from my research, thinking the softer sticky tires could be fine for this type of project. For my Vette I went to some really cool C5 N34 special order SpeedLite Magnesium lightweight wheels in 17x8.5 and 18x9.5 for modern tire choices.

Need to pick up the rear axle assembly so we can start mounting the hard parts.

Body and paint and most other stuff will stay the way it is. It's not a show car but should look fine, might do E Codes or something with LEDs.

Hoping for between 700 and 800HP the initial build, like I said if we can scoot below 11.00 in our local 1/4 mile we will be thrilled. My pops is an old drag racer from way back and I am hoping we can both get some runs in next season.

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And I guess I'm going to start tearing down the 1993 B230 tomorrow, probably going to line it up for a rebuild with forged rods and pistons for the eventual upgrade of my other 240.
 
First short block assembly for me, seems to be going ok. Turbo stuff to come soon. Got a few things on the motor to finish up, then drop it in along with the BTR converter and 4L80E. Got a bunch of stainless steel elbows and will build the turbo system shortly, then probably fuel and wiring I guess. Trying to keep it as basic as possible for now. Lots to do, lots to learn, Soo much info out there between the LS forums and here, you guys have really done all this before. Will post progress as it happens but it's one of many, will probably pick up speed once the engine is in the chassis.
 
Looking good!
I still haven't started pulling my pickup apart - Everytime I get ready to move on with it I have needed it to haul stuff. At this point I just need to get on with it. Then, I could toe the 16V 745 back from OH myself😁
Your motor looks very pretty. I'm just going to leave mine as is, besides a cam & new seals all over. If runs OK basically stock , I'll think about motor mods . Looks like you'll be done long before me at this rate!
 
Thank you both, I do appreciate the encouragement. I see I forgot to post the initial LS teardown and some of the rebuild prep stuff. Basically decided to tear down the motor to have a fresh start. Im not at all sure this was the right approach but it did add quite a bit of cost and complexity. It almost certainly would have been fine as it was but its all fresh now and I have the experience of assembling my own engine for my own racecar with my Dad helping which was something I wanted to remember. We dropped the engine block, heads, crank and some parts off at LRB Performance, they hot tanked it, decked the block and installed cam bearings, polished the crankshaft, milled and rebuilt the cylinder heads with valve job and the new PAC 1218 springs to go with the sloppy stage 2 camshaft. Took a year to get the motor back as it was low shop priority and cheaper that way lol Once it was back I went ahead and hit the cylinders with the ball hone, 320 grit Im pretty sure, WD40 as lube, worked great I think. Then I washed the shit out of it, used the long brushes from Moroso for all the oil passages and stuff. Not to thrilled with some of the flash rust, I wasnt too sure about using WD40 during assembly and didnt have fogging oil or whatever is appropiate. I tried to work as best I could in my atmosphere, its not a very clean shop, my efforts to maintain cleanlieness were significant and ultimately it came together to look decent. Color scheme is just kinda whats laying around.

Painted the block with some POR 15 engine enamel in Hemi Orange that's been in the garage since 1999. Went ahead and checked the main bearing clearances with plastigage, the shop had already said it would be fine with STD size bearings but I wanted to try the plastigage to see how it worked, looked like about 0.020" according to the strips but I've heard it tends to measure a few thou under, so hopefully its closer to 0.024 or so, factory specs can be as tight as 0.009" I think and people run them all the time without doing bearings first so I think it should be okay, I dont think we are going for record HP numbers and if it spins a bearing I'll learn the lesson that looser is safer, Ive heard it said no body will know its a little loose, will see as this whole thing is an experiment, same with rods, within spec. Cam spun good but I dont have clearances for that. I gapped all the new Hastings moly plasma ring by hand to .028" for the top and .025" for the middle rings as recommended for boosted applications.

Not much else to note really, found out I had to cut the windage tray to clear the oil pickup for the low profile swap pan, made some thread chasers from old head bolts and decided to go with the ft lbs method for the head bolts rather than angle torque and my torque wrenches are much better quality than my angle torque gauge, I did test it out a couple of times and it seems in the same neighborhood for sure but the angle gauge is inconsistent due to it its poor quality or my lack of ability to use it proficiently.

I need to order a few more new sensors and measure the pushrods with the checker tool that just arrived, once the pushrods are good we can finish the valve train and button up the motor. Not sure exactly what set of accessories I will run, thinking truck stuff if I can make it fit. I got some 2" Sch 10 304 SS elbows for for the turbo hotside that i plan on tig welding along with the Edelbrock shorty headers flipped around. Plan changed to a slightly bigger 81mm turbo simply because the 7875 hotside is a bit small for the 6.0L, and it just the ubiquitous budget turbo, so a billet 81mm will be good upgrade and allow for headroom. Right now the plan is Holley Terminator X EMS for 4L80E control and easy tuning. Fueling will be easiest I think by going to a fuel cell by Rhodes Racecars, probably a big old 20 gallon with some big ole pumps, probably dual 450s, thinking the Bosch 210s now for injectors.

A few pics that I missed

Engine coming home from FedEx, result of late night CL browsing, didn't even have a vehicle for it yet. A little grody but complete anyways and has a set of Edelbrock shorty headers





Here is my attempt at flex ball honing the cylinders, you can see some slight staining on the walls where the pistons where sitting in the bores before honing, afterwards I think 95% better, should be good enough to for a first season of racing I hope.

Before



After



Last year I chopped the front crossmember according to one set of instructions I have, either for the engine mounts or the oil pan, then looking at the other set I notice it says should would without cutting, hmmmm....not sure at this point but its already notched and welded so if anything I guess just more clearance. Will find out for sure shortly when i drop the motor and trans into the chassis. This was just flux core and came out fine for what it is, I could have Mig or Tig but honestly the old wirefeed welder is just so easy and gets the job done. The later stuff like roll cage will be done with the Mig.





 
When you say using WD40 for assembly - you don't mean in the place of assembly lube (for all moving parts/bearings)?

When you did the ball hone, did you move up & down at a reasonable rate? I can't say I see much cross hatching in the bore pic, but that may just be the lighting.
 
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