ZVOLV
<Master Tech>
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2002
- Location
- California
NO START:
Photo courtesy of cleanflametrap
-PRELIMINARY CHECKS- GET AN INCANDESCENT BULB TEST LAMP! (~$15) A meter is the wrong tool to confirm power circuits. One strand of wire can show 12V on a meter, but won't be enough current to operate the component.
1.) Confirm power to the fuel injectors: connect the test lamp between the coil postive and ground. Key on, lamp ON?
2.) Confirm igntion signal to the coil: connect the test lamp to the coil NEGATIVE to a good ground. Crank. BLINK?
3.) Confirm injector pulse: disconnect a fuel injector connector, peel back the boot, connect a noid light to an injector wiring connector and crank the engine BLINK?
- STEP 1: Check for spark! Unplug ignition wire going from the coil to the distributor. Ground it very close to a strut tower stud like in the picture above. Crank the engine. Do you see spark? If you see a consistent spark, go to the next step and do the starting fluid test. If no spark, inspect Crankshaft Sensor/Hall Sensor and do ignition diagnosis.
-STEP 2: STARTING FLUID! This will confirm that ignition, timing and mechanicals of the engine are good with one fast and easy test:
TO USE STARTING FLUID: Unplug the fuel injectors, pull the spark plugs and clean them of any fuel, crank the engine and air out the cylinders. (This will clear out any flooding of the cylinders from trying to start the engine.) Then reinstall the spark plugs, LEAVE INJECTORS UNPLUGGED, disconnect intake hose at throttle body, open throttle body, give it two long sprays, crank. Start? You should be able to keep it running PULSING the can of brake cleaner. If so, you have a fuel system issue. YOUTUBE VIDEO ("test fire without any fuel lines even installed in the car yet.)
If your car runs on starting fluid, the fuel system is suspect. Check for power at the fuel pumps/fuel pump fuse with the engine cranking. Check fuel pressure. A gauge that will bolt onto the fuel filter outlet (12mm banjo) is available from auto parts stores for a refundable deposit.
-Nothing wrong with doing a compression test!
-Check belt timing. The cam, crank, and aux shaft (on 240) all need to be aligned correctly.
-Check ignition timing. Approx 12 degrees BTDC.
NO CRANK:
1: Battery above 12v?
2: Still no crank? Backprobe yel/blu wire at starter. Crank. Have 12v? If not, neutral safety switch (if auto) or ignition switch suspect.
3. 12v at signal wire to starter and STILL no crank? Starter, battery, primary/ground wire issues.

Photo courtesy of cleanflametrap
-PRELIMINARY CHECKS- GET AN INCANDESCENT BULB TEST LAMP! (~$15) A meter is the wrong tool to confirm power circuits. One strand of wire can show 12V on a meter, but won't be enough current to operate the component.
1.) Confirm power to the fuel injectors: connect the test lamp between the coil postive and ground. Key on, lamp ON?
2.) Confirm igntion signal to the coil: connect the test lamp to the coil NEGATIVE to a good ground. Crank. BLINK?
3.) Confirm injector pulse: disconnect a fuel injector connector, peel back the boot, connect a noid light to an injector wiring connector and crank the engine BLINK?
- STEP 1: Check for spark! Unplug ignition wire going from the coil to the distributor. Ground it very close to a strut tower stud like in the picture above. Crank the engine. Do you see spark? If you see a consistent spark, go to the next step and do the starting fluid test. If no spark, inspect Crankshaft Sensor/Hall Sensor and do ignition diagnosis.
-STEP 2: STARTING FLUID! This will confirm that ignition, timing and mechanicals of the engine are good with one fast and easy test:
TO USE STARTING FLUID: Unplug the fuel injectors, pull the spark plugs and clean them of any fuel, crank the engine and air out the cylinders. (This will clear out any flooding of the cylinders from trying to start the engine.) Then reinstall the spark plugs, LEAVE INJECTORS UNPLUGGED, disconnect intake hose at throttle body, open throttle body, give it two long sprays, crank. Start? You should be able to keep it running PULSING the can of brake cleaner. If so, you have a fuel system issue. YOUTUBE VIDEO ("test fire without any fuel lines even installed in the car yet.)
If your car runs on starting fluid, the fuel system is suspect. Check for power at the fuel pumps/fuel pump fuse with the engine cranking. Check fuel pressure. A gauge that will bolt onto the fuel filter outlet (12mm banjo) is available from auto parts stores for a refundable deposit.
-Nothing wrong with doing a compression test!
-Check belt timing. The cam, crank, and aux shaft (on 240) all need to be aligned correctly.
-Check ignition timing. Approx 12 degrees BTDC.
NO CRANK:
1: Battery above 12v?
2: Still no crank? Backprobe yel/blu wire at starter. Crank. Have 12v? If not, neutral safety switch (if auto) or ignition switch suspect.
3. 12v at signal wire to starter and STILL no crank? Starter, battery, primary/ground wire issues.
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