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(Not*) Mediocre 242

Lol. I know it's pot calling the kettle black because my car is ugly with no trim, but oh well. I get why people like commandos, they're just not for me.

That's not what I meant. Your car is far from ugly. I poked the bear many years ago by asking on a certain forum (before TB was a web forum) if I needed to change my bumper shocks when installing later bumpers. Never got the answer, but I sure got a barrage of posts about how stupid I was to even think about it.
Dave
 
In the meantime, I got most of my gauges matching. These are so much better to wire than stock ones, and I've been meaning to clean up the wiring back there for some time. I only need a Stack boost gauge, but that'll come later.

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Just curious, did those play nicely with the stock senders?
 
Just about done with my rear suspension. I do need to get some helper springs, but that's it.

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I also got the front bumper trim on. Still need to mount the sides of the bumper cover and paint it. Plus everything for the back. I should have plenty of time to do everything I need to before davis.

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Nice. You should make me some trailing arms and rerar coilover mounts now that you have all of it figured out :-P
 
nice...looks a bit more lightweight than what I came up with.

Maybe. Ben's trailing arms do seem pretty light. But I do think my shock is a little more compressed at ride height than is ideal. I think putting the upper mounting point in the frame is definitely the way to go. It's just easier for me to machine a part than to cut and weld back there.
 
Maybe. Ben's trailing arms do seem pretty light. But I do think my shock is a little more compressed at ride height than is ideal. I think putting the upper mounting point in the frame is definitely the way to go. It's just easier for me to machine a part than to cut and weld back there.

I have drop brackets for the trailing arm to fix that.
 
I actually measured my shock at ride height and it's at 14.5", which is what ride tech recommends.


My buddy upgraded to a double pumper Aeromotive setup and gave me his Walbro 525 for a deal. At 27 psi of boost pressure I was seeing a 83% duty cycle on my ID1300s, so I wanted some extra pump headroom for when I turn up the boost this summer. Since the pump requires a bit more current than the 450, it transfers more heat to the fuel. To counteract that, I used an old oil cooler I had lying around as a fuel cooler.

I've never had vapor lock with this car, and I hope this cooler prevents it in the future with this pump. I've got a few more things to do before Davis, but I should be able to do it in time.

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Ever since the fuel pump upgrade, I've been looking at my injector duty. It's not ideal.

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The screenshot isn't great, but the lower plot is injector duty cycle (red) and boost (yellow). Injector duty peaked to 98% at 27 psi. What's weird is that after the gear shift I hit 33 psi, but that only required a duty of 85%. The spike corresponds to a difference in wheel speed between front and rear (upper plot). I'm not sure why the engine requires more injector duty during wheel spin when then engine isn't loaded as much. Can anyone shed some light on this?

I don't really want to, but I might have to upgrade to some 1700cc injectors. The above is all with a base fuel pressure of 60 psi, so I can't really increase it with the boost pressures I'm running. Ideally I'd do staged injection, but I don't have the available outputs on the ECU for that, and it would be way more expensive than a set of injectors.

Does anyone here have experience with idle quality on pump gas with ID1700s? I try to keep a mix above e60, but on road trips and stuff I use normal pump gas, so I'd like to know what I'm in for as far as idle quality.
 
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