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(Not*) Mediocre 242

No more relying on the stock crankshaft locking tool and the stock pulley grooves. Crank pulley is fully installed and torqued, just waiting until I can modify my alternator pulley to fit and then it should be good to go.

QnBgVPxl.jpg
 
t8fanning said:
No more relying on the stock crankshaft locking tool and the stock pulley grooves. Crank pulley is fully installed and torqued, just waiting until I can modify my alternator pulley to fit and then it should be good to go.

QnBgVPxl.jpg
Click to expand...
Once you wring that out / wet test, I see a group buy in your future....... nicely done.
 
DET17 said:
Once you wring that out / wet test, I see a group buy in your future....... nicely done.
Click to expand...
I doubt that's gonna happen, but I'm not opposed to it. The ATI dampers aren't really budget friendly. I did make one other set that is already spoken for though.
 
I finished my ATI damper/serpentine belt conversion. I'm pretty happy with it.

LPVMjYBl.jpg


I went for a quick test drive to see what coolant pressure is doing now. Before this pulley setup coolant pressure was ~450 kPa absolute at 6800 RPM. After this pulley setup it is now ~370 kPa absolute at 6800 RPM. That gives roughly a 10 psi drop for the same RPM. For reference I measure coolant pressure at one of the spare ports on the intake side of the head.

Empirically, coolant temp did seem to rise more rapidly to the 82 degree thermostat temp, but it never went above that. Granted this data is from a quick night drive so things may change in the heat of the day in traffic but we'll see. I've never had cooling issues before so I'm pretty confident in my radiator and fan setup.

Alternator voltage never dropped below 13.3ish amps, which isn't different than what it was before. I need to do some more testing to see and really rev it out all the way, but this data is definitely promising.

If someone else is planning on swapping to the KL racing serpentine pulleys, just be aware the alternator pulley won't fit the Denso 100 amp without modification. The step diameter on the hub hits the Denso case, preventing it from fully seating. A quick turn on the lathe, or a circle on the mill can fix it. I didn't spit the serpentine belt in the quick drive, so I think belt alignment is good but we'll see with more driving.

Stock pulley:
EHRWz9ll.jpg


Stock KL pulley (doesn't fully seat):
7FQrhDVl.jpg


Modified KL pulley:
OnrNY4Cl.jpg


Modified KL pulley fitment:
ZZXP0dNl.jpg
 
adomz said:
That's very interesting. So if i want to rev it to around 8k, i need quite a few mods to the crank pulleys etc?

ADam
Click to expand...

I don't know what is really "needed" for 8k RPMs. I do think that plenty of people, especially in Swedish folk racing, rev B230s to 8k with undamped underdrive pulleys. I don't know how long their engines last or if they have any problems. I have heard that above 7500 RPM or so some people have issues with v belts coming off.

I'm just doing it this way because I think it will be more reliable for how I use my engine.
 
t8fanning said:
I don't know what is really "needed" for 8k RPMs. I do think that plenty of people, especially in Swedish folk racing, rev B230s to 8k with undamped underdrive pulleys. I don't know how long their engines last or if they have any problems. I have heard that above 7500 RPM or so some people have issues with v belts coming off.

I'm just doing it this way because I think it will be more reliable for how I use my engine.
Click to expand...
That's interesting. I need to investigate it all. I will be running a 16v head with proper pistons and rods, and also a bit more worked head than just the usual original spec with stronger valve springs, and also, i was thinking to up the rev limit to shift the powerband a bit further.

It's way too far away for me to start thinking about those kinda things, but better to know and research in advance than just stick it all up and hope for the best lol..

Cheers, Adam
 
I went to a roll racing event this weekend in Bremerton, WA. Unfortunately I didn't drive it up there because I keep having high transmission oil temps after driving on the freeway for a while. I've got a larger transmission cooler coming, but probably need to think about ducting my radiator fan more and maybe ducting the cooling stack inlet some.

So English Racing towed it up for me and I snuck in with some big hitters. My car barely makes half of the horsepower of the second lowest horsepower car in that trailer when it was loaded up.

PAWot9zl.jpg


qULc6t5l.jpg


D8xs2Bhl.jpg


I took some pictures one of the evenings.

g9EhtFWl.jpg


dmyPLcHl.jpg


mjKSvqEl.jpg


It was a super fun time and I'm reasonably happy with how the car did. Based on some data I think I had/have a boost leak I need to address. 40-110ish mph feels great and I can get out on a good amount of cars, but I definitely need to figure out how to improve my 60-130mph times. My best one was 8.17s, which is slower than what I really want. It was super hot racing, and my cooling issue flared up a bit but the transmission did well. Looking at some buddy's video my car just jumps forward when he has to shift.

Here's a video of me against a 700hp FWD Civic that I may have won:

Here's a video of me against an 850whp AWD Mazdaspeed 3 that I definitely didn't win:

I've got some more dragy video, but these were the most interesting because they're the only runs I have multiple perspectives of.

Things I want do some time soon:
  • Fix my high transmission temps.
  • Figure out what's going on the potential boost leak.
  • Get rid of my R brakes in the rear so I can use some 15" wheels with some sticky tires.
  • Turn up the boost/ slightly larger turbo/ nitrous or figure out another way to make some more power. I think the 650-700 whp range would be ideal.
 
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