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Official LH2.4 EZK Wasted Spark Conversion - Installation Instructions

bret, wahat wire did you solder the tach output to? did you leave the stock ignighter in place? what post numbers are the egr pins?
 
From this post: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=75838&page=2

EZ116K:

1: OBD diagnostic socket (in some markets: serial interface)
2: Coolant temp sensor
3: Check Engine Light output, shared with ECU pin 22. Signals: 12-off, 1-on
4: PRE-IGNition, output to ECU pin 28. Signals: 0-Preign, 6.5-stable, 12-knock
5: 12v supply, constant
6: 12v supply, switched
7: Throttle idle switch
8: Load Signal Tq, from ECU pin 25
9:
10: Engine speed sensor
11: Engine speed sensor (shield)
12: Knock sensor (shield)
13: Knock sensor
14: EGR, Ground connector on engine (power ground)
15: EGR, converter, control
16: Igntion amplifier drive, trigger
17: Engine speed signal output. Signals: 6.5-cranking, >8-idle
18: Selector wire. Signals: 5v-disabled, grounded-enabled
19: Selector wire. Signals: 5v-disabled, grounded-enabled
20: Ground connector on engine (signal ground)
21:
22: EGR, temperature sensor
23: Engine speed sensor
24:
25:

Looks like 18, 19, 21 and 25 has something to do with timing advance/retard, so those should be not used. That leaves 9 and 24 as empty, but who knows if they don't go anywhere inside the EZK box (the post shows them as grounds)? Three pins are EGR pins (14, 15 and 22), so looks like those three can be used as wasted spark output for non EGR boxes.

82794314.jpg


Paul
 
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I used a mitsubishi (mazda 1.6l miata) J702T ignitor, and the tacho output pin off of that wired directly to the volvo tach.
 
Probably best to post this over here too on the J702T ignitor:

DNAsEqUeNcE said:
267376_10150247748401560_543391559_8257870_4100434_n.jpg
Click to expand...

DNAsEqUeNcE said:
OC1 Output coil bank 1 (to 1-4 side of your coils)
IB1 Ignition bank 1 (from buchka spark 1-4
VB Voltage Battery 12+ switched
TAC Tacho output straight to your 240 tach if miata unit, IF dsm unit, wire in a 12+ pullup wire with 1k ohm resistor tied into tach line)
IGR 12+ passthrough (unused)
GND Self explanitory
IB2 Ignition input 2 (to 2-3 side of your coils)
OC2 Output coil 2 (from buchka spark 2-3)
Click to expand...

How are you powering your coils? What kind of gauge wire should work?

Paul
 
malloy1 said:
Probably best to post this over here too on the J702T ignitor:

How are you powering your coils? What kind of gauge wire should work?

Paul
Click to expand...

Oh howdy!

I used some 10 gauge stuff with a cube relay. Some 12g from the ignitor to coils works good too. in also this case, you are eligible to use an MSD DIS2 box.
 
sparkwiring.jpg

By bando123 at 2011-11-03

Forgive me, but I prefer visual diagrams. Would this be a simplified wiring diagram, essentially a transplanted Mazda Miata wasted spark system.

Would I need moates to change the ezk tables to make this system work.
 
Nice one.

and negative boss, it'll plug right in and work. you can change the EZK spark tables for more power or more economy if you want, but its not required.
 
DNAsEqUeNcE said:
Nice one.

and negative boss, it'll plug right in and work. you can change the EZK spark tables for more power or more economy if you want, but its not required.
Click to expand...

Cool. I picked up the Jwhatsit ignitor on my last JY visit. Now just need to find a coil next time and I'll be in business once the Buchka Super Happy, etc, etc gets here.
 
pick your coils, I have been wanting to experiment with all different sorts. I have only experience with the subaru and miata coils, both of which worked well and handled boost no problem.

I have yet to try pairing up the ls1 coils and toyota cop coils.
 
i have a set of jegs GM 2 post coils. we will know how well they work in a few. just a couple more wires and it should run
 
malloy1 said:
Here is the pinout on the 0 221 503 407 unit:

EZKMod2.jpg


and the 0 227 100 203 unit is pinned out as (the unit is used to run 3 sets of wasted spark cylinders):

Pin 1-#1 negative coil
Pin 2-#1 Input
Pin 3-#2 negative coil
Pin 4-ground
Pin 5-#2 Input
Pin 6-#3 negative coil
Pin 7-#3 Input

This should be the setup using these two parts:

Out From EZK: -> Into 203:____ Out From 203: -> Into 407:
1-4 output -------> Pin 2 _________ Pin 1 -------> Pin 3
2-3 output -------> Pin 7 _________ Pin 6 -------> Pin 1

Pretty picture:

<a href="http://s144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/67%20122/?action=view&current=EZKMod1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/67%20122/EZKMod1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

I'm assuming pin 3 & 5 of the 203 unit won't be used to run any cylinders. Also, "Switched 12+", I mean 12+ when cranking too.

Karl looked it over, and thinks it looks right, but if somebody sees something wrong with it, please point it out.

Paul
Click to expand...

I'm just curious if this is the definitive correct wiring for running the setup or is this for Launch control? All the credit to Karl for the instructions, but I'm a visual guy too.

Also, if I chose to wire it this way(sans launch control), do I follow directions for the dummy coil, or for the alternate MS tach signal.

Pardon the dumb question, but where is the best switchable 12v connection for this install?

Sorry, I'm just not very electronic savvy.
 
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There's obviously no definitive wiring diagram since it's setup dependent. The above diagram is correct for a 203 module and the Bosch wasted spark coil.

I would say the tach wiring depends on how reversible you want the system to be. Leaving the stock ignition module and wiring in place lets you quickly and easily revert to a distributor, but obviously at the cost of having to leave all the old stuff in the bay.

I would probably just tie in to the existing 12v feed for the stock ignition module. It's already there and you know the wiring will be able to handle the current draw.
 
mine. works, and works great! thanks Karl. more torque and much better top end!
i used a 6 Cyl j somthingn or other ignighter from a mitsubishi and it works just fine. i ran the tach out put to the stock tach wire on the powerstage plug(red/white) and i also had to wire in the dummy relay to get the tach to work. i used the + (blue)from the power stage plug for the ignighter and the + (blue)for the original coil to power the 2 GM style dual post coils. i added extra wires to the EZK plug at spots 14 and 15. prety simple. for your wires in the box to the board i used O2 sensor wire, solders good and its good wire.
 
I really hate sounding dumb, but what do you connect those 6 header pins (the ones that got bent in some packaging) to? I get all of the other connections and mostly how to run the dummy coil setup.

Also, I don't mean to sound cheap but the coil pack is expensive new! Any source of a used form of it? I mean I can wait and save for it, but this is just out of curiosity.

Thanks in advance
 
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ZVOLVO240 said:
I really hate sounding dumb, but what do you connect those 6 header pins (the ones that got bent in some packaging) to? I get all of the other connections and mostly how to run the dummy coil setup.

Also, I don't mean to sound cheap but the coil pack is expensive new! Any source of a used form of it? I mean I can wait and save for it, but this is just out of curiosity.

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

Header pins are for programing. the coil packs are all over the junk yards. ford, gm, mazda, mitsubishi......hit up krazy rays and go a scouting.
 
the miata 1.6l coils from NA body miatas work perfectly, and should be cheap. they also plug into stock ignition wires. I'd use the ignitor off that too. it has a 4cyl tach output on it that plugs into the factory volvo tach and works.
 
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