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Official LH2.4 EZK Wasted Spark Conversion - Installation Instructions

chirish1234 said:
also, ran it hard last Wednesday and came back to find out cyl 2-3 had stopped firing. ohmed out my wire harness and everything checked out. going to take the board apart and see if a connection broke or something. has anyones board failed on this way?
Click to expand...

Haven't had a board failure in either of my two installs.

The only failure I've had was when the crimp on the 12v for my coil pack broke when I floored it to get away from traffic, yeah... That was embarrassing.

Hope you find out why you're down a bank.
 
Hi all,

So I managed to desolder and detach one of the solder pads from the wasted spark board... damn. Thought I was better at soldering than that. Too much heat I guess, although i wasn?t attempting to attach a huge gauge wire so I didn?t have the soldering iron tip on the wire and pad for long.

Take heed of my tale of woe and be extra careful soldering!

Suppose I?ll order another. Perhaps after a beer.

Cheers
 
bugjam1999 said:
Hi all,

So I managed to desolder and detach one of the solder pads from the wasted spark board... damn. Thought I was better at soldering than that. Too much heat I guess, although i wasn’t attempting to attach a huge gauge wire so I didn’t have the soldering iron tip on the wire and pad for long.

Take heed of my tale of woe and be extra careful soldering!

Suppose I’ll order another. Perhaps after a beer.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Have that beer, but then PM me your name & address and I'll send you a replacement board, on the house. I'll just ask you to cover shipping. Mistakes happen! :cheers:
 
I've beat my head against a wall for 3 weeks+ and can't figure it out. I honestly don't know (some say yes) that this issue is even WS related.

Here's the nonperformance thread.
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=352545

It's pretty long so here's the important stuff..

Car is a 1990 745 lh2.4 16t Buchka wasted spark conversion board installed ~2years ago, miata igniter, bosh 2x2 coil pack, NPR IC, injectors are currently green giants JUST to rule out leaking injectors, normally run t5 injectors. 954 ecu and ezk are chipped from sbabbs.

Car won't start after long sits in colder weather. First start of the day depending on how cold it is will vary from 10min to an hour and a half...but it will eventually start. After the first warm up, car starts everytime without hesitation, even after 4ish hour breaks in colder weather.

Ive tested and replaced so many things...I've come up with nothing.

My question, how do I confirm the WS spark board is performing properly and my connections from the board are okay? I have checked for continuity in all my connections in the engine bay, but I'm unsure how to test other parts of the system. I have visually inspected all connections from the ezk board to the igniter, but come up with nothing.

It seems all my electrical testing are limited to when the car won't start...as soon as it starts, it will not repeat symptoms till the following morning.
 
Mbeas96 said:
I've beat my head against a wall for 3 weeks+ and can't figure it out. I honestly don't know (some say yes) that this issue is even WS related.

Here's the nonperformance thread.
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=352545

It's pretty long so here's the important stuff..

Car is a 1990 745 lh2.4 16t Buchka wasted spark conversion board installed ~2years ago, miata igniter, bosh 2x2 coil pack, NPR IC, injectors are currently green giants JUST to rule out leaking injectors, normally run t5 injectors. 954 ecu and ezk are chipped from sbabbs.

Car won't start after long sits in colder weather. First start of the day depending on how cold it is will vary from 10min to an hour and a half...but it will eventually start. After the first warm up, car starts everytime without hesitation, even after 4ish hour breaks in colder weather.

Ive tested and replaced so many things...I've come up with nothing.

My question, how do I confirm the WS spark board is performing properly and my connections from the board are okay? I have checked for continuity in all my connections in the engine bay, but I'm unsure how to test other parts of the system. I have visually inspected all connections from the ezk board to the igniter, but come up with nothing.

It seems all my electrical testing are limited to when the car won't start...as soon as it starts, it will not repeat symptoms till the following morning.
Click to expand...

You can scope the 1-4 and 2-3 output signals from the wasted spark board, into the igniter module. If you see a signal there at 2x engine speed frequency on both channels while cranking, then the WS board is likely not your issue.
 
Duder said:
You can scope the 1-4 and 2-3 output signals from the wasted spark board, into the igniter module. If you see a signal there at 2x engine speed frequency on both channels while cranking, then the WS board is likely not your issue.
Click to expand...

Awesome. Looks like I'm finally getting a oscilloscope and learning how to use it. Thank you sir.
 
Spending New Year trying to figure out the electrical gremlins with fitting this wasted spark kit.

Got a 93 240 with a Buchka board, Bosch 2x2 cool and J702T ignitor.

Issues...The ignitor gets hot when cranking to check for spark. Like hot enough to cause a blister on my finger after cranking it for one second.

Then there's no spark when cranking, but when the ignition is on position 2 you get random sparks across all for leads.

Finally, the sparks still continue after the ignitor is removed (and I melted a work glove in the process of remove the ignitor).

Any ideas?
 
fridazadilak said:
Spending New Year trying to figure out the electrical gremlins with fitting this wasted spark kit.

Got a 93 240 with a Buchka board, Bosch 2x2 cool and J702T ignitor.

Issues...The ignitor gets hot when cranking to check for spark. Like hot enough to cause a blister on my finger after cranking it for one second.

Then there's no spark when cranking, but when the ignition is on position 2 you get random sparks across all for leads.

Finally, the sparks still continue after the ignitor is removed (and I melted a work glove in the process of remove the ignitor).

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

My initial reaction is: it sounds like a short. Have you checked for shorts with a continuity tester or multimeter?
 
Just to clarify, the ezk box should work as normal still after instilation? I have the board installed and plugged in my gold ezk just to ensure i diddnt fry the board or something silly. The car runs like crap on it, and wont idle.
I didnt test the ezk before i wired it in. But wanted to ask before i remove it and try again on my current ezk.
 
SEslayer said:
Just to clarify, the ezk box should work as normal still after instilation? I have the board installed and plugged in my gold ezk just to ensure i diddnt fry the board or something silly. The car runs like crap on it, and wont idle.
I didnt test the ezk before i wired it in. But wanted to ask before i remove it and try again on my current ezk.
Click to expand...

The wasted spark board acts as an electronic distributor of sorts, making the ignition trigger signal alternate between the two new coil outputs. It acts as a piggyback and shouldn't affect the function of the EZK at all other than splitting the output.

Check your installation to be sure you didn't melt anything that shouldn't have been melted, or that there isn't a blob of solder shorting two terminals somewhere.

Also, did you swap the 1-4 and 2-3 output wires when you installed the board? They have to be swapped on the black boards because of a programming error.
 
Duder said:
The wasted spark board acts as an electronic distributor of sorts, making the ignition trigger signal alternate between the two new coil outputs. It acts as a piggyback and shouldn't affect the function of the EZK at all other than splitting the output.

Check your installation to be sure you didn't melt anything that shouldn't have been melted, or that there isn't a blob of solder shorting two terminals somewhere.

Also, did you swap the 1-4 and 2-3 output wires when you installed the board? They have to be swapped on the black boards because of a programming error.
Click to expand...

I havent swapped them but i did note it on the box, i wasnt sure if it was still on this current batch but i was just planning on swapping plug leads until it worked if it diddnt.

I might have brunt something, but i did check with a sparky at my work (im a maingenance engineer) and he said it all looked dandy.
One little thing i did make an oopsie on though was the iron touched a little yellow plastic thing on the board. Melted the corner of it but diddnt show metal. Other than that it all looked fine. Ill pull it out again tomorrow and check but i took good quality photos before i finnished. Its c106 on the board that i melted a bit. Ill check all my joints to ensure i diddnt melt anything.


a>
 
SEslayer said:
I havent swapped them but i did note it on the box, i wasnt sure if it was still on this current batch but i was just planning on swapping plug leads until it worked if it diddnt.

I might have brunt something, but i did check with a sparky at my work (im a maingenance engineer) and he said it all looked dandy.
One little thing i did make an oopsie on though was the iron touched a little yellow plastic thing on the board. Melted the corner of it but diddnt show metal. Other than that it all looked fine. Ill pull it out again tomorrow and check but i took good quality photos before i finnished. Its c106 on the board that i melted a bit. Ill check all my joints to ensure i diddnt melt anything.


a>
Click to expand...

Swapping plug leads won't fix the 1-4 / 2-3 mix-up. You have to swap the output wires that run from the wasted spark board to the ignition module (power stage).
 
Any ezk on turbo car?

Will any ezk work on a turbo car?
I read that the ignition maps are different, are they different enough to cause a turbo car isses with wasted spark?
Want to try again, im a dork and superglued before i tested and think i may have stuffed a joint up as the car wont run in stock configuration with the wasted spark installed on the board.
 
I know someone has mentioned this before in one of their build threads but I cant seem to find it.

Anyone using an OEM type bracket for Bosch 2X2 Coil? I know range rover used this type coil pack but their OEM bracket is for 2 coil packs.

Thanks
 
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smoothdurban said:
I know someone has mentioned this before in one of their build threads but I cant seem to find it.

Anyone using an OEM type bracket for Bosch 2X2 Coil? I know range rover used this type coil pack but their OEM bracket is for 2 coil packs.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Late reply, sorry...but I used an OE coil bracket from a late '90s / early 2000s Ford Escort 1.9L with EDIS to mount the Bosch 2x2 coil pack. It had the same bolt pattern and interface dimensions. I modified the bracket to bolt onto a redblock near the 240 distributor location, just above the freeze plug you'd see on a 740/940.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=5592484&postcount=475

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Duder said:
Late reply, sorry...but I used an OE coil bracket from a late '90s / early 2000s Ford Escort 1.9L with EDIS to mount the Bosch 2x2 coil pack. It had the same bolt pattern and interface dimensions. I modified the bracket to bolt onto a redblock near the 240 distributor location, just above the freeze plug you'd see on a 740/940.
Click to expand...

that was actually supernice!!!
 
kodja said:
that was actually supernice!!!
Click to expand...

Thank you; I'd like to start making my own version from scratch and offer them on my website along with plug wires, connectors, and harnesses. This version of the bracket would only fit an engine with 240 accessory brackets and the distributor removed. For those running the 940 style accessories the bracket would have to pick up off of different bolt holes on the block.

smoothdurban said:
Ford PN appears to be F5CZ12257BA

https://parts.roeschford.com/v-2001-ford-escort--se--2-0l-l4-gas/electrical--powertrain-control

Thanks
Click to expand...

That's the one; you bet. It was a lot quicker for me to chop & weld this bracket than it would've been to cobble one up from scratch, for the prototype anyway.
 
How does one purchase the buchka wasted spark kit?
Is there a separate order thread? Or by PM/mail/website? If so which?

Thanks in advance!!
Matthew.
 
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