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Official LH2.4 EZK Wasted Spark Conversion - Installation Instructions

Wingman said:
I am about to order parts for the wasted spark conversion of my 1998 940 Turbo and I have a few questions about ignition modules. I was planning on buying a Bosch 0 227 100 203 but they seem to be sold out.
Can I use the 2-channel Bosch 0 227 100 200 instead?
The shop also has Hüco but the part number is not displayed, would any 2 or 3-channel work?

The modules are sold without the cooling plate that the 940 OEM module has. Can I run the new ignition module with a cooling plate?
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1994 945 Turbo Ultimate DD Build

Got the accumulator mod done yesterday! Doing it in the car wasn't as bad as I anticipated, but I certainly would not want to do it on the ground. I bought a transmission drain funnel to use on our lift drain, which helped contain the majority of the mess. My M12 ratchet is thoroughly...
turbobricks.com turbobricks.com
 
Hi All,
Long time lurker and regular on ozvolvo, first time here.
I am part way through a COP on a 16 valve B234 and having an issue. Current setup is a CFLmoto/Buchka wasted spark board that works fine with the Bosch 203 igniter and Bosch 2x2 motorsport coil.
Using the VAG COPs though only one COP unit works per channel at a time, so 1 and 2 work though only when 3 & 4 are not connected. Plug them all in and it just stops. COP Bosch pn is 0 986 221 024/VAG pn 06A 905 115 D which I thought would work. @ipdown mentioned many years ago here that they worked fine with a dwell adjustment in the EZK.
The chip for the dwell adjustment is on the way (in Australia here so it is a while to get most things shipped) though it appeared they would work without the dwell change and run hot - at least run for a few minutes.
There was talk of adding a couple of PNP transistors for a different coil - tried that and no fire at all. It was a long shot though worth a try.
Does anyone have any advice or ideas on what may be the problem and what may be a solution?
 
Hi, has anyone a diagram for the circut on the wasted spark pcb? Is it a attiny microcontroller on the pcb? Can someone send me the code and schematic so I can make my own? Not for business use, just want to do the most myself, tanks in advance🙏😊

Edit: or if someone can take high resulotion pics of the pcb👍
 
This may have been asked before, but I'm about to throw one of these in my 245, and was curious if the original spark signal still gets sent out of the ezk. I was looking to install the chip before all of the wiring in the car, do the job in a couple of steps, and wanted to make sure that was possible.
 
Okay so, question, are the coil pin still reversed like the site says if I buy a chip right now?
And second, the blue wire from pin 2 on the coil like the instructions say, where does it go? 12V battery? or switched?
 
maartenrink said:
Okay so, question, are the coil pin still reversed like the site says if I buy a chip right now?
And second, the blue wire from pin 2 on the coil like the instructions say, where does it go? 12V battery? or switched?
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Yes, the outputs are still reversed. Website description is current. If / when we produce a next batch, I would plan to fix the issue and change the board color to indicate the difference.

Pin 2 on the coil should be switched +12V power, the same source as the old original coil power.
 
You mean the wire from the + terminal on the old coil? And do the signal wires from the chip to the power stage need to be shielded? Because the wiring diagram for the old power stage says so for the signal from the ezk
 
Screenshot_20250523_162020_OneDrive.jpgjust Curious here, has anyone had success with With the time retarded launch control function for wasted spark from BTI, im pretty confident i know what to do at the switch end & the neat little panel ive purchased. I am unsure of where the retard output pin is( purple&green) on the WS board & the +3 degree selector pin & the retard connection pin. Or is there another more technical launch control WS board from BTI we haven't seen. I did have an ezk equipped with it around 2021 pictured below but was sadly sold & i never saw the inside
Any of our friends in the Netherlands running this setup
 

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Another question about the switched 12V for the ignition coil. Should it be pure 12V or 9V the original coil gets through the ballast resistor?
 
Donny said:
For the guys who mounted the 2x2 coil and Mazda ignitor over the valve cover, has heat been a problem?
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At first I've moumted both on the valve cover. The coil's working temp is up to 120C according to bosch catalog, indicated that no broblem even on the cover. but ignitor is not (maybe). Later I moved only J702T ignitor to the bulkhead.
 
raota said:
At first I've moumted both on the valve cover. The coil's working temp is up to 120C according to bosch catalog, indicated that no broblem even on the cover. but ignitor is not (maybe). Later I moved only J702T ignitor to the bulkhead.
Click to expand...
I'm worried about the ignitor module. I got it all hooked up and took it out for a rip and everything was basically at engine temps, ~200f. Seems awfully hot for an ignition module
 
Donny said:
I'm worried about the ignitor module. I got it all hooked up and took it out for a rip and everything was basically at engine temps, ~200f. Seems awfully hot for an ignition module
Click to expand...
I had mine at the factory location on the stock ignition module heatsink. Used the factory threaded hole on the left, drilled / tapped a second on the right, and put some thermal paste (I used some leftover arctic cool from my PC) between them.

FMNStlrl.jpeg
 
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