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Pdx dl

Thanks. Nice to have first-hand experience.

Cleaned the garage last night. Things were getting pretty disorganized in the heat of battle. Wheel bearings / races look good. Pads and rotors look ok (like to get those dustless ceramic type, but that will keep for "stage II"). No apparent leaks from the struts. Suspension parts on the way.

I love fixing up old cars. I'm eager to get this driveable. It can be trying when you can't spend as much time as you would like on a task. Just got to accept that automotive nirvana doesn't happen overnight and enjoy the journey. Which I do: Talking, researching, trying and failing; all good stuff. Always learning. I appreciate your support, ideas, criticism. 1000 minds are better than one.
 
Timberline?


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Two off the coils. Struts are junk. Close eyes. Screw back together. Once she's burning gas I'll start acquiring some proper suspenders.

:omg:


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A good day in the Man Cave. Struts hung, rubber brake lines installed (only rounded one metal line), ball joints on. I went with the power steering ball joints. Best I can tell, they have more caster than the manual steering units. Should offer more stability I suppose.

Any recommendations on alignment specs?


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Bling! (I didn't know they had four pot calipers!)


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Wheel bearings packed. New hard line bent. Tech tip of the day: caliper paint is still soft after 24 hours in a 50 degree garage.


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PS pump / rack, compressor out.


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Motor mounts in. Seems to be a leak. Read something about plugged flame traps / PCV's. I'll check this first.


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Positive cable looks a bit sketchy.


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Found a "small" brake booster (anybody know how to adjust the pushrod?) and a tach instrument panel. Hope to have the steering rack and trans mount in tomorrow. Then battery cable, engine oil, trans fluid, diff lube, cut the rear springs, paint the rear calipers. And tires. Thinking 215/60R15's.
 
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LC4CARL said:
Found a "small" brake booster (anybody know how to adjust the pushrod?) and a tach instrument panel. Hope to have the steering rack and trans mount in tomorrow. Then battery cable, engine oil, trans fluid, diff lube, cut the rear springs, paint the rear calipers. And tires. Thinking 215/60R15's.
Click to expand...

Going 16V + Tee?
 
Front main seal is leaking. Easy fix, but you have to take the timing belt off to do so. May as well replace the timing belt while you are in there.

If you are really wanting to save some weight, get the smaller Denso alternator. Smaller and weighs less. Makes changing the filter easier as well.
 
quillc said:
Front main seal is leaking. Easy fix, but you have to take the timing belt off to do so. May as well replace the timing belt while you are in there.

If you are really wanting to save some weight, get the smaller Denso alternator. Smaller and weighs less. Makes changing the filter easier as well.
Click to expand...

Great idea.

This thing makes the Exxon Valdez look clean. Should have degreased it before I put it on stands. Got grease in every pore now. Yuck.

On a positive note, I haven't found any real "game changers" like hidden collision damage or extensive rust through. Looking forward to my first road trip in it.
 
Cleaned the PCV thing with a drill and some brake clean.


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Is a hose supposed to connect to the large nipple?


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I found this, but don't seem to have #6. Does it connect to manifold vacuum?


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LC4CARL said:
Is a hose supposed to connect to the large nipple?
Click to expand...

Yes, the hose goes to the large intake hose that connects to the throttle body. There are two hoses that connect there, one for the IAC, the other for the PCV. Its a moulded hose. If its not connected there, I would be surprised if it ran very well as you would have a massive leak bypassing the AMM.
 
Cool. I'll take a look. This would be on the plastic tube between the throttle body and the air filter? Not a super high vacuum, but a little I suppose.

What's "AMM?"
 
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