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Pushrod engine intake Q's

At least your steel intake doesn't have the secondary throttle valves. Later model ones had those, it diverted the air flow through the center warmed section at idle for better idle emissions. They opened when the pedal went down, but still were some slight flow bottleneck I think.
 
AndrewNance said:
Yeah the first time I met him was not long after he tossed a bunch of stuff I could've used, like B20s and stuff. I should've joined sooner.
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There's one here in the Windsor PnP junk yard.

329-1

$35 ish out the door with the $2 to get in.

Not a bad price RPR used to sell the intake or exhaust for $150 ea so $75 is definitely a bro price.
 
AndrewNance said:
Yeah, John linked that one. I just think I could get mine split for cheaper than $100+shipping. I'll have to take it down there and ask them about it. Plus I PM'd Mike to see if he still has any of those by chance. Thanks for the help though, fellas.
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Reportedly the later EFI exhaust manifold flows the best.

140B20FExhaustMani1.jpg


140B20ExhaustMani2.jpg
 
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No, I won't use 'em on the 122 anyway. I just know my filter options are better with the airbox. No more $90 throw-away replacement filters and no more K&Ns that have to be modified to even work with PCV. Although I did find the air cleaner like two days after I bought one of those PCV breather attachments for SUs. Typical :roll:
 
Redwood Chair said:
Aren't you going to run the intake out into the fresh air?
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I thought about it but I heard the incoming air needed to be slightly pre-heated? I don't know if there's any truth to that. Plus there isn't much room for all that behind the grill area. Although when I did consider it, I had imagined using modified IC piping so it would have less of a tendency to become brittle over time.
 
It's mostly useful for warm up in a cold climate.
The bi-metallic spring is designed to regulate the incoming air to 80?.
Generally the spring is removed, and the flap caulked in place.
Like the later style pre-heat stuff it's prone to failure, with burned B20 exhaust valves being the result instead of a fried AMM.

The 140 snorkel has a thru-hole rubber grommet for the header panel, and is all figured out and done.
 
Redwood Chair said:
It's mostly useful for warm up in a cold climate.
The bi-metallic spring is designed to regulate the incoming air to 80?.
Like the later style pre-heat stuff it's prone to failure, with burned B20 exhaust valves being the result instead of a fried AMM.

The 140 snorkel has a thru-hole rubber grommet for the header panel, and is all figured out and done.
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Do you have a picture of all of that hooked up in a 140? I can picture it in my head but I'm more interested in size reference. I still might go with an intake through the front and into the grille area. Although I'm not sure of the benefit I'd get from that other than it looking pretty neat :e-shrug:
 
Cold air and a little positive intake pressure is always a good thing.

I sold my last B20 intake piping to swiftjustice, but still have some D-jet stuff that's a larger diameter tube.
 
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I'll have to wait until the cleaner box gets here to see how big the opening is but I have an idea that I can make a turbo intake from an x70 work, provided the diameter is equal.
 
I mentioned on the previous page that it's probably better than most headers. Is a Stahl a 4:1 style header? The stock manifold is a 4:2:1 style, properly pulse paired, and with good lengths on the pairings as well. Most high dollar 4:2:1 headers use similar lengths, just larger tubing diameters for highly modified engines. most 4:1 style manifolds are jsut for the looks.

For the record, i have a 4:1 header on my PV too. But I was replacing the single downpipe style B18 exhaust manifold which flows poorly. And I only paid $73 (shipped) for the thing, brand new, from Amazon.com. Patriot brand, came with a *much* better looking collector than internet pics would lead you to believe, very solid functional chunk of tubing.
 
AndrewNance said:
Well here it is:

nKDLL.jpg


So I'd have to have the mount for the linkage welded onto it rather than just tapped into it because I'm not sure how well the linkage would work if I moved it, as far as binding up and what not. Basically, I'm not sure if the linkage is flexible enough to adapt to that. I'd be willing to give it a whirl but I'd still probably have as much money in paying someone to weld that as I would in just having mine split in half.

Then there's the differences between SUs and Solexs which I have no idea about. That's where I'd need the custom Solex-to-SU adapter plates which I'm sure would be $$$. Why couldn't there just be an SU-powered penta motor?
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What does the header look like?
 
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