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Radtap's 1980 242

Plan is a Pioneer SH322/310-BT, Polk 5.25 up front and 6x9 in the rear, debating what to do for sub, issue is most places either don't have the stereo or have it at 3x original price, bestbuy has it at original price I just gotta actually order the stuff. The 244 has a single self powered 8in sub under the pass seat but I don't feel it's enough, thinking of 2 self powered subs under either seat but I also have a 12in sub sitting & collecting dust in the shop so we'll see.
I spent a bunch on high end door speakers + a nice head unit when I did my interior. I should have replaced door seals and window gaskets first. With the amount of road noise etc that transfers into the cabin I doubt I’d notice a difference between $200 speakers and $50 ones. Now I have a stock am/fm radio that is just for looking at, not listening to…
I’m going to replace all those seals but also getting marine grade speakers aswell mainly for the front door but to also hopefully hold up in the sun as well. The diaphragm just rots to crap here and I’ll take all the protection I can get.
I'm not a fan of 6x9's, but understand why you want to use them. I have a nice set of Alpine ones in my 78 if you are interested, I'm not going to use them.

I installed set of Polk 5.25's in a friends Jeep last year, sounded good. Installed an amp to drive them but don't remember the size.
I had 4 6x9s in my single cab truck and it completely eliminated the need for a sub, hoping I can get a decent amount of bass out of the two so I can forego a sub in this car but we’ll see. I just ordered the speakers the other night but I appreciate it
Update on the rear shelf: joann’s no name fabric glue didn’t last one full day in Az in November. High of 89 degrees today which ain’t jack, parked in the shade all day. Well just gotta clean off half dried glue and apply some 3M on crack
It was about 38 degrees here today lol.

Four 6x9's is a lot of surface area in a single cab, but not so much in a car. I'm going to use a square Kicker 8" sub, same surface area as a round 10" plus dual voice coils to max out the amp.
Box or slim sub? I’m trying my best to keep a sub out of the trunk so I really like the slim self powered subs
Box, mounted against the back of the rear seat. It's not a big box. It really depends on the goal, I want the bass to really hit but not trying to vibrate everyone else's car. The slim self powered units give a nice sound, but the punch isn't there. They vibrate the seat a bit though which helps I suppose.

You can minimize the space the box takes up by figuring out the angle of the rear seat and building the box to fit it. I realize that is a lot more work to wire amps and make a box than to just use the self powered unit though. If the sound is there and you like it, go for it.
I’ll just have to figure it out once I get the rest of the system in and near how it sounds, like I said I have that 12 and might try it out. Joked around about just cutting a hole in the rear shelf for the 12 for that gangster look. Mount a box to the underside of the shelf in the trunk :lol:
Got some 86+ seat backs yesterday and finished the passenger seat today

swapped over the hinges + seat bottom and added the push button, could've done a better job placing the button but I still have to do the drivers seat. Put in a new grid from wagonmeister and lined some crucial spots with ripped jeans so the foam hopefully doesn't split

Finished up the driver seat last night and installed the new seats
Replaced grids, "reinforced" the foam like I said & added a bit of extra cushion

Still need to find a front half black carpet and then paint or replace the tan kicker panels and interior is mostly done.

Also got wisdom teeth out today and eating nothing but jello I need suggestions

Discovered this underneath the rear carpet. I can't read Swedish

Also finally installed a proper 86+ rear seat back & front and back black carpet. Still need to just paint my kicker panels. Will have pictures up tomorrow of interior.
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Thing sold almost immediately, don't need to go through a second kjet revival while the first is barely limping :lol:
I had an '80 242 that color...'cherokee' red I think?
Mine had been repainted due to fade up here already, no rust either though.

The black interior looks nicer, tho if you don't get the R134 conversion done before may & ice cold with some heat reflecting tint or drive it in the summer before monsoon, the black int might be a down grade from the 'I poured bleach on what used to be my white workshirt' 'tan' interior for cabin comfort, functionally.

The tan has terrible longevity, but when it was brand new I could see why someone would like it; looks classy & cooler in summers, especially the right cloth. Obviously, it's 40 years later in that particular car & 28 years later for all 200 series, so most of the tan is pretty tired in all but the no UV cool gloomy minty garaged Seattle cars or gloomy PA cars that all rusted out and got crushed with low UV interiors.

Difficult to find the right no pack-rat or black widow infested side yard, carport or garaged used desert car.

Door seals are more durable ~1981+ but that probably has to come from a PNW donor. The repop IPD seals don't fit right and can bend the already fragile/delicate 242 window frame/put a ton of pressure on the doors/don't work right.

Regardless, don't slam the door or manhandle it from the window frame, keep the door hinges well lubed with the aircraft high pressure grease loaded grease gun & it'll be fine tho.

72+ door handles kinda suck & the crash proof 1978+ latches need to be kept oiled.

I'm not a stereo guy, but I refuse to cut the doors or parcel tray. The 8" round MB quarts worked nice on the parcel tray, the BNE grates that work with manual windows with durable metal grates (they're $$$, but quality, look period correct and way nicer than the late model volvo grates too) allow 5.25" door speakers, which are harder to find than the 4" shallows that work with the common crutchfield adapters & ~1980-1989 garden variety plastique grates.

Also, 4" shallows that fit around the windows/window regulators/manual window cranks aren't that common anymore in quality Boston Accoustics that you'd find in tricked out Bay Area yuppie E30s and those cars are to valuable to go to the junkyards anymore...used to be you could buy 5 E30s for $4k...now that gets you maaaaaybe 1 roachy least desirable model one that's maybe savable...uh...at all. That was then, this is now...:lol:

IDK I'm not a big stereo guy/audiophile/home, pro or automotive hi-fi expert & wouldn't dare claim to be remotely possessing the knowledge of one, but 240s are noisy, generally.

Of any of them, the late-late 1993 244s with ~30K miles garaged in a 60% humidity 60?F cocoon with the OEM hood blanket/mat like the diesels & turbos got with all the door seals perfect (they did get 2 door seals 1987+ for wind noise and flush mounted windshield) in perfect supple garaged seattle car shape/condition with quiet michelin soft compound e-code rubbery tires & all OEM bushings in perfect shape, stiffer chassis & more rigid 4-door shell generally are about the only 200 series cars quiet enough to have the stereo quality matter in.
I could barely hear the diesel engine in perfect shape in the perfect running '87 MBZ 300D or 1995 E420...mom's 1-owner PNW garaged 1993 244 is *almost* that quiet inside, but not quite...it's still a tractor volvo & the engine still sounds like a tractor & it needs a door hinge/they deleted the grease zerk & used softer metal 1986+ :grr:

They never sold late late GLE model 1993 240s with the quiet B280 even fire good V6 for perfectly balanced/no engine noise with the OEM diesel sound deadening mats...always wondered what the quietest possible 200 series would be out of the volvo factory combos/junkpile. I'd have to think B280 even fire with the engine so far forward and smoooooth/no vibrations/vibes?

Otherwise, if your car is like the avg. TB quarter-million mile+ abused roach-coach the sound deadening is curled up in the bottom of the resonant noisy 242 door like a stiff taco shell, all the door hinges are dry of lube/mis adjusted, shell is fatigued & bent & popped a little around some spot welds, under-carpet mats the foam is orange dried devils dust & mats are cracked/glue is breaking down, roof sound deadening mat is sitting atop the headliner/glue has long since given up assisting the matt's gravity-defiance in the hot dry sun & it's an early car that were noisy wretched stripper late 70s 'malaise speech/gas crisis/stagflation era' flexible fliers/cheap econo ****boxes at best 1975-1980 from new. It has short gears and the noisy tractor B21F & mingy sound deadening mats at best from new, splitting hairs over the stereo, especially with the OEM speaker locations is silly IMO. It is what it is; an early tractor car not optimized for a fancy stereo, do no harm, don't hack & maim, don't install a stereo someone might want to steal, listen to the hooptie noises the car's likely to make so you can pull off the road before you do damage to any NLA parts that might be difficult to repair or obtain? Books on tape for road trips, think about driving safely & where you're going/ the next job/jobsite & not the stereo?

Volvo also gave us pretty decent alpine made separate 200W amps and reliable japanese made head units in the 1990s. Obviously dated now, but it's period correct and quality for its day and pretty durable (in our cool gloomy climate if you take care of it and just listen or NPR/the boring morning news station of your choice like the avg. silver haired volvo owner and don't turn it up that loud in the first place :lol:). IDK, I thought the 11 speaker dynaudio speakers OE SC901 C70 system and V70R alpine made systems sounded pretty OK when they were new, but I don't play live music as a pro musician or studio tech for the big $$$ or have perfect time or pitch to tell you how 'at the studio' perfect they sounded/wrong person to ask/don't know what I'm hearing, really?
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The car honestly wasn’t in the worst shape when I got it, 170k miles and then sat for 20 years in the sun. Interior has been completely replaced now and will have pictures soon. Didn’t wanna cut the rear deck either so I’m making speaker boxes to sit ontop so they hold 6x9s rather than the stock 6(?) inch speakers. Gonna stick 5.25 in the front doors, checked my clearance and all, door seals are still perfect luckily, one pop out window needs a new seal, it fell at some point and can’t push it back into shape. I like the tan interiors but they simply don’t last out here, turn pink within a couple of years. I’m no audiophile I just like to put slightly more money into sound systems than most. I 100% understand m46 short gears. Barely making it half way through the intersection and it’s screaming bloody murder.

I need to go get tint, there was some on the car but it’s horrible. Need to begin gathering AC parts too. Still have roughly 2.5-3 months until the heat comes back so it’s time to scramble. Enjoying the last “warm” week before we get sent into a windy winter

First 240 since June arrived at the junkyard and turned into a little impromptu meetup this weekend. Jtbechtold's 744 on the right. Not often I see or hang out with other Volvos
hay guise


Just kidding, threw some koni sports in there today


Filthy engine bay pic


Got a set of loaner wheels from jtbechtold so I can try to polish and repaint those wonderful wagon wheels over the next few days, possible week. Will post when that gets done.