• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Rear axle choices Ford 9" or 8.8" or other? (2008-2022 bump)

Nice work on the failtastic post. :-P The 8.8 axle tubes on the late explorer diffs are 3.25"x0.25" -that would eat a dana 30 axle tube as a light snack in the mid afternoon.


I'll take 31 splines, clutch type posi, good aftermarket, 4x4.5 bolt pattern for the price of a junkyard pull. :e-shrug:
[mode=JohnV]
the EARLY tubes were thin
and MAYBE some of US live in PLACES where the EXPLORER WASN'T sold:wtf:
so maybe some of us live where the cost of a BAD 9.0 or 8.8 axle is NORTH of $1000!:roll:

name someone who has broken the volvo tubes:-P
name someone with a volvo powerplant who is putting down more than 700Ft-lbs

FIDEL did the ****ing research and found not so surprisingly volvo used cheap steel in the axles
so he went to a guy who builds axles for funny cars and said build me axles that wont break with 1000HP
and the guy said "not a problem"

ohh
and he can also supply you with 31 spline axles to use in the volvo housing if your still so hell bent on using them:-D

why the **** are you so hell bent on all this complication for replacing the ****ing axle when you can just replace the bits that break easily
(shafts & diff)

[/mode=JohnV)
 
the EARLY tubes were thin
and MAYBE some of US live in PLACES where the EXPLORER WASN'T sold:wtf:
so maybe some of us live where the cost of a BAD 9.0 or 8.8 axle is NORTH of $1000!:roll:

name someone who has broken the volvo tubes:-P
name someone with a volvo powerplant who is putting down more than 700Ft-lbs
If you look properly, you can buy old Ford Fairlanes for under $500 and grab a decent 351, C4, and 9" out of them.

Are spools available for the Volvo/Dana 30 diffs? The reason I ask is that everyone seems to break components in the centres, not the axles themselves.
 
If you look properly, you can buy old Ford Fairlanes for under $500 and grab a decent 351, C4, and 9" out of them.

Are spools available for the Volvo/Dana 30 diffs? The reason I ask is that everyone seems to break components in the centres, not the axles themselves.

i was comparing apples to apples in JY trip vs JY trip....

Poik, myself, and john lane have all twisted the ends off the axles
just to give 3 examples off the top of my head
 
I think the GM 10 bolt rear ends are a good choice for a Volvo with a powerful engine. I have run them in street/strip cars and have never had a failure of any kind. If you are making enough torque or running big slicks, just install unbreakable axles. I like those made by Summers Bros. I haven't seen an ad for them, so they may have been bought out, but there are many others who make comparable axles.

The 10 bolt is not as heavy as the Ford 9" and there is less parasitic loss. Limited slip or locker differentials are cheap and plentiful.
 
ElPiloto, you must be talking about the 8.5" 10 bolt, and not the 7.5" 10 bolt. I thought it would be important to differentiate.
 
That's exactly right. By the way, the Buick Grand Nationals used these rear axles. They were handling over 600 horsepower and BIG slicks without breaking.
 
I think the GM 10 bolt rear ends are a good choice for a Volvo with a powerful engine. I have run them in street/strip cars and have never had a failure of any kind. If you are making enough torque or running big slicks, just install unbreakable axles. I like those made by Summers Bros. I haven't seen an ad for them, so they may have been bought out, but there are many others who make comparable axles.

The 10 bolt is not as heavy as the Ford 9" and there is less parasitic loss. Limited slip or locker differentials are cheap and plentiful.

I'll find the article from Hot Rod or Car Craft...

they say the Ford 8.8 is equal if not a little better than the 10 bolt in some cases...in fact it uses the same exact pinion bearing and shares a lot of common dimensions, the + side is that they are very common and a lot newer....just seems like you don't want a Ford part in your car and are hell bent on the Chevy stuff :)
 
I have use Ford 9" rear axles in several cars. I like them because they are so easy to set up and it's easy to change ratios by setting up 2 or 3 pumkins. Now they are in high demand and junkyard prices are quite high.

The 10 bolt is cheap because everyone wants a Ford axle. They are perfect for a light car like a Volvo. I would use a Ford 8.8" if I could get it for the same price as a 10 bolt.

If you really want a bulletproof rear axle, go with a Dana 60. I have used them too.

Bearings are commonly used on many axles. A rear end shop only has to carry 15 or 20 different bearings to build 90% of the cars out there.
 
Are spools available for the Volvo/Dana 30 diffs? The reason I ask is that everyone seems to break components in the centres, not the axles themselves.

not at the moment. i have sourced forgings and could have them go into production if there is a big enough interest.they will retail for around $250-300. the only major question is will we go with the stock 27 spline so we can use stock axles, or go to a 30 or 31 spline and have axles made, witch will raise the cost around $350 for a set of axles
 
not at the moment. i have sourced forgings and could have them go into production if there is a big enough interest.they will retail for around $250-300. the only major question is will we go with the stock 27 spline so we can use stock axles, or go to a 30 or 31 spline and have axles made, witch will raise the cost around $350 for a set of axles

you know of a diff that'll go into the stock housing with larger spline count???

if so, I'd be all over this option and could send you a deposit on some axles....
 
you know of a diff that'll go into the stock housing with larger spline count???

if so, I'd be all over this option and could send you a deposit on some axles....

Uhm, he wrote that he could have spools made, so could make them with a higher spline count, which would necessitate the new axles.........
 
Ford 8.8.

If you need proof go on streetfire and search 8.87. Watch the video. That car has an 8.8 in it.

There are many companies that support the 8.8 in the aftermarket and they are fairly reasonable to upgrade.

They also will cost you less weight and hp loss.
 
you know of a diff that'll go into the stock housing with larger spline count???

if so, I'd be all over this option and could send you a deposit on some axles....

at the moment there are two options for lockers with a 30 spline count.
 
if you plan on making 600+ and transbreaking the car at high boost (1.3 60 ft or better) i would consider a 9" or dana 60... but honestly at what your car weighs i would imagine an 8.8 would survive the punishment well, even with stock axles.. good luck!
 
at the moment there are two options for lockers with a 30 spline count.

Lockers that fit in a Dana 30 carrier for large O.D. axles? Care to share more information?

Also, what would be the needed O.D. on an axle shaft to fit on those lockers? Reason I ask is because I have a set of axles that are with larger O.D. that the stock ones, but as of yet they have no splines on them at all. I've been planning on something like bigger half shafts and a modified locker or a limited slip with custom side gears for the shafts.

I did not occur to me that there could readily available lockers for bigger axles. So any info would be hugely appreciated.
 
Last edited:
Thought some might like to read this article from Chevy High Performance, 12 Bolt compared to 9"

surprised Captain Bondo nor anyone else pointed out another weakness of the stock 1030/1031 rear end assemblies....the ring and pinion...so once the center diff and the axles are upgraded to super strong units, the ring and pinion becomes the new "weak link" of the assembly...

68c84409fa.jpg
 
Fidel,
Thanks for chiming in here. I didn't realize there was a 30 spline differential that would fit a volvo case.

I live literally 2 miles from Mark Williams, and they have built axles for a few of my friends cars. The good axle shops have the tooling to make any axle configuration you want, re-spline stock axles, any bolt pattern, etc. And they charge roughly what Fidel is quoting. $350 a set.

The differential is a whole different animal though.

But really. a 31 spline Ford, or Chevy, can pulled from the local JY for $50-$100. They are out there. I have seen them. The limited slip part might be harder to find. I'll have to go hunt around and see how common they are in the boneyard. I suspect I will find an 8.8 LSD no prob. Even a 9" shouldn't take too much hunting.

I'll be in moving the axle housing brackets around in this project to make room for bigger tires. If im doing that, it just doesn't make sense use the Volvo axle. But the information about the stronger 30 spline diffs and axles, and even upgraded 27 spline axles is really important to alot of people. I think my wagon could use a set of axles like this. Its not getting much faster, but it is still my primary fun car for the next couple years while I start the backhalf on the other car.
 
I re-used the existing suspension pickup points- cut them off the D30 and welded them onto the 8.8.

In retrospect I wouldn't do it that way. Some four-link brackets from summit and some rod and rod ends would have been easier, stronger, and more tuneable.

I know that for a 700 series it isn't quite that easy since you don't have pickup points for upper trailing arms/torque rods like a 240.

But my suggestion is that you consider the possibility of being rid of the "subframe" and set up a more "conventional" 4 link during the process of converting the diff. Maybe it's too hard on a 700, but I would at least have that possibility in the back of my mind when planning the swap.

The rest of the stuff I don't feel like commenting on- turbobricks logic (or lackthereof) just sometimes cannot recieve reason. :nod:
 
I re-used the existing suspension pickup points- cut them off the D30 and welded them onto the 8.8.

In retrospect I wouldn't do it that way. Some four-link brackets from summit and some rod and rod ends would have been easier, stronger, and more tuneable.

I know that for a 700 series it isn't quite that easy since you don't have pickup points for upper trailing arms/torque rods like a 240.

But my suggestion is that you consider the possibility of being rid of the "subframe" and set up a more "conventional" 4 link during the process of converting the diff. Maybe it's too hard on a 700, but I would at least have that possibility in the back of my mind when planning the swap.

The rest of the stuff I don't feel like commenting on- turbobricks logic (or lackthereof) just sometimes cannot recieve reason. :nod:

any other things you'd have done differently such as donor vehicle choice or use of aftemarket parts??
 
Kevin Hawkinson and JV are using the Toyota rear. I'd love to see more pics of their progress. (hint hint).
+1
The toyota supra with 5 bolt wheels comes standard with an awesome diff that is:
1.) light
2.) strong
3.) already has a LSD
I thought Supras were IRS.
they are.
For the Toyota 8" rear end:
Yes, the Supras are IRS, and some (turbos?) come with 4-pinion LSD.
Pickups and 4Runners have a solid rear axle with dropout 3rd member.
Drop the LSD into the solid axle 3rd member with your choice of R&P.

For Toyota 9.5" rear end (just found out about this last week):
These came in FJ Land Cruisers.
Optional equipment: electric locking diffs and/or full-floating axles.


Project status report:
Need diff and pinion bearings.
Gotta get the 3rd member assembled.
Waiting on link boxes (these get welded into the chassis).
Gotta figure out caliper mounts.

Project is currently low priority.
School, work, and getting my DD running all have higher priority.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top