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Rob Prince's 242 Resurrection

Now I'm rather confused...I was under the impression that the breathed on B21 NA was making big power, and ran a seriously quick 1/4 time (for an NA redblock in the US)....like a 14 or something. According to what you've written there (and assuming a figure quoted at the crank), it's making less power than mine :omg: If it did run a 14 with that power, I REALLY need to get a shorter diff and a lightened flywheel in mine and go run something that isn't a 17...

Awesome project. That car is lusted over on both sides of the atlantic. Just the other week someone posted a pic of it on V3M. Be sure to keep us posted :)

cheers

James
 
foggyjames said:
Now I'm rather confused...I was under the impression that the breathed on B21 NA was making big power, and ran a seriously quick 1/4 time (for an NA redblock in the US)....like a 14 or something. According to what you've written there (and assuming a figure quoted at the crank), it's making less power than mine :omg: If it did run a 14 with that power, I REALLY need to get a shorter diff and a lightened flywheel in mine and go run something that isn't a 17...

Awesome project. That car is lusted over on both sides of the atlantic. Just the other week someone posted a pic of it on V3M. Be sure to keep us posted :)

cheers

James
Click to expand...

I think his original setup included some nitrous. I think.
 
That's what I thought. Presumably that power pull was with the giggle-gas off, and the 1/4 time was with it on.

cheers

James
 
The dyno reading was off also, the carbs were messed up.

The nitrous was never run at the track. And actually, Rob never really used the nitrous himself I don't think.
 
Dyno was just days after a major reassembly, so the tuning and preperation was not quite there. A carb issue also led to what occurred during the runs, as seen below...

136/148 was pretty good considering...but I think we had all expected ~180whp.

Yes, it was loud.
blue_car_dyno1.jpg


But it sounded oh so good.
blue_car_dyno4.jpg


Hmm, sparks from the side pipe on decel at 6500rpm?
blue_car_dyno5.jpg


blue_car_dyno6.jpg
 
Nice work! I was going to ask what RPM it made it at. I'm aiming for upwards of 150 crank with minimal extra work (exhaust, efan, maybe stronger ignition).

cheers

James
 
Volvorules said:
Well, to fit the 255s took quite a bit of work. What I did was drill out all of the spot welds around the fender lip. Then I separated the outer quarter panel from the inner part. I cut the edge off of the inner, where it comes down and bends back in towards the car. I then used a porta-power to push the inner part out, which in turn pushed the quarter panel itself out. Once I had it out far enough, I folded the quarter panel lip up over the inner panel, and welded it up. I will try and get some pictures this week of the work I've done.

Finally got the R brakes on the front on Friday as well, so I will get pics of that too.
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking of doing. Mine will need to come out about another 1/4 of an inch because I have 10"ers :). With the panels separated is there any risk of the chassis flexing or getting out of shape? Cant wait for pics..

Rob
 
ravennexus said:
what happened to the carb setup rob :badboy:
Click to expand...

I sold the carbs, kept the manifolds though. I've got a set of ITBs that will bolt right on, dunno if I'll use them in a future turbo setup, or NA.

I do miss those carbs though, the sound and throttle response were just amazing!
 
Rob, the car is looking super evil... love the wheel offsets and body work you've done! I'd also be interested in seeing a few pics of the work you did inside those rear quarters...
 
nickgreen said:
Rob, the car is looking super evil... love the wheel offsets and body work you've done! I'd also be interested in seeing a few pics of the work you did inside those rear quarters...
Click to expand...
I've started dumping my photos of the car to this gallery...

off dana's home server

From the inner panel, remove the fender lip. Push the panels out, fold the lip from the outer panel flat over the inner, weld in place. The rear portion of the quarter (behind the wheel) was pushed out using a 240 scissor/screw jack and blocks of wood. Once the panel is seperated along the bottom at the spare tire well, the jack can be used to push it out. Then weld a support rod in place to hold it, and fill in the gaps.

PICT0828.jpg


This is looking up at the left rear panel. The left side of the frame shows a silver colored piece of scrap metal used to brace the panel at the desired width. Rob got a little carried away with the cutting tools and removed more than necessary from the inner panel (large hole leading into the trunk). Ideally, you'd continue cutting away the inner panel where it meets the roof of the wheel well, push it out flush with the outer panel, and weld in a piece to close the roof. Thus giving a square opening 12-13" wide for insanely low ride heights (tucking wheel with no rub, if you like).

Credit goes to Tom Smith for first explaining this to me back on the old Turbobricks EZboard forums. It's taken me that long to get wheels/tires large enough to need to do this to my own car. By the summer I'll be sporting bigger wheels/tires than Rob. :D
 
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It's a Gemini hood...got damaged in shipping, but I threw it on there anyway. The new one should be coming soon... :)

It's in ugly mode now, took off the wheels so I can do bodywork and paint. The rear quarters look hilarious with 195s in the back!!
 
Volvorules said:
It's a Gemini hood...got damaged in shipping, but I threw it on there anyway. The new one should be coming soon... :)

It's in ugly mode now, took off the wheels so I can do bodywork and paint. The rear quarters look hilarious with 195s in the back!!
Click to expand...

I know what you mean. I think my 185s on the back looks pretty funny and my quarters aren't even pushed out.
 
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