Running Red Hot

[JoeLouis]

I've been reviving an 84 242 GLT that had been sitting for over a decade outdoors. I have a hope of running the car in a 24 hours of lemons race. The car now runs, but the temperature is rising under spirited driving. I can let the car idle for an hour with the temp below half on the stock temp gauge. The car is modified and runs 15psi of boost at the moment and I took it for a 5 mile run, under accelerated driving, 80 degrees outdoors, and parked when the temp was about 3/4th of the way up. When I opened the hood I could see the exhaust was red hot on the turbo housing flange coming out of the manifold.

I flushed the coolant, and replaced, and did it again. Same thing. I have a new water pump, thermostat, and 2 row aluminum radiator installed but none are of high "racing" quality, and were inexpensive (just enough to get the car on the road). Two electric fans are running. The car had a brass, leaking, radiator core when I purchased, which I took to a radiator shop, but they said it failed the pressure test and was unrepairable.

As the 24 hours of lemons race is intended to be run with a 500$ or less car, I am wondering what angle to approach this from. A racing radiator, or an upgraded water pump maybe? Is there something I can source from a junkyard or will lowering the boost benefit me enough? I didn't plan to run it over 10psi for the race, but would like to otherwise.

As always, suggestions, feedback appreciated.

 

[Nagrom]

Intercooler yo

 

[Pietercc]

84 "should" have intercooler I believe

 

[JoeLouis]

Yes, it does an intercooler from an Isuzu NPR. I need to add this stuff to my signature, sorry.

 

[302ftw?]

Turbo housing should not be that hot. Does it have a cat and is it clogged?

 

[JoeLouis]

No cat. 3" exhaust to dynomax ultra flow muffler.

 

[Pietercc]

Is the turbo in known good health?

 

[rb92673]

I have 19 endurance races in my Volvo 745 turbo, mostly Lemons in CA. Glad to answer any questions you might have.

You should have no problem with cooling. The only time I have had cooling problems was when a fan is not working in the paddock, there was a pressure leak in the cooling system, or we had a blown head gasket. I use the plastic ended radiators and water pumps from rock auto. You do not need anything other than stock parts to keep it cool.

Do you still have your thermostat installed, if not put a 180-185 degree thermostat in. I also recommend checking your cooling system for pressure leaks, checking timing, and compression/leak down check. I would not run more than 10 psi of boost your first race.

You should be B or C class.

 

[cosbySweater]

Check your timing

 

[JoeLouis]

Is the turbo in known good health?

I did pull the turbo and purchased a new (ebay) cartridge that I installed. The old one was leaking oil into the exhaust. I will double check the connections, and do hear bubbling? at the turbo when I turned the car off.

 

[JoeLouis]

I have 19 endurance races in my Volvo 745 turbo, mostly Lemons in CA. Glad to answer any questions you might have.

So good to know and see. I'll check the system pressure, and do compression/ leak down test also. I will also double check the timing.

 

[2manyturbos]

What turbo are you running? If you have the tiny .42/.48 AR T3 an 84 240 Turbo came with they will run red hot trying to make a steady 15 psi.

 

[JoeLouis]

Its a newer turbo. Mitsubishi td04hl. Maybe the coolant is not circulating through it correctly, or a pressure leak? I hope it didn't already fry it. I do know it wouldn't spool up enough to activate the CBV which was set at 18psi.

 

[Pietercc]

Its a newer turbo. Mitsubishi td04hl. Maybe the coolant is not circulating through it correctly, or a pressure leak? I hope it didn't already fry it. I do know it wouldn't spool up enough to activate the CBV which was set at 18psi.

What size?

 

[Cwazywazy]

You should have no problem with cooling. The only time I have had cooling problems was when a fan is not working in the paddock, there was a pressure leak in the cooling system, or we had a blown head gasket. I use the plastic ended radiators and water pumps from rock auto. You do not need anything other than stock parts to keep it cool.

Are you running a stock intercooler or a big thick core air dam? I've wondered how much of a difference it makes for cooling, trading radiator airflow for cooler intake charge.

 

[rb92673]

Are you running a stock intercooler or a big thick core air dam? I've wondered how much of a difference it makes for cooling, trading radiator airflow for cooler intake charge.

Stock 740 intercooler, radiator and oil cooler.

 

[culberro]

Are you sure it’s actually getting hot and not the gauge acting up or a wiring issue?

 

[Khrrck]

Are you sure it’s actually getting hot and not the gauge acting up or a wiring issue?

First post says red hot was visually confirmed.

 

[JoeLouis]

Timing was off for sure. I must have timed it last without pulling the vacuum advance on the distributor. Also had a leak at the bottom of the coolant catch tank, and it was empty, which is where the turbo gets coolant. Retimed, reclamped and refilled. Took it for a 5 mile drive, and it didn't overheat, but did start leaking oil out of the turbo oil outlet. I'll pull it this weekend and reassess. Thanks again for all the suggestions.

 

[rb92673]

but did start leaking oil out of the turbo oil outlet.

For racing, I would suggest converting to AN fittings for the turbo oil return. If you have a turbo block, Yoshifab makes an AN adapter for the block and you can get an adapter for many turbos. Then you just need to make a AN braided line.