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Rusty in Tucson (1971 145S)

ScatsManul

Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2017
Location
Tucson, AZ
Ian's build thread: https://turbobricks.com/index.php?threads/rusty-the-1971-145s.354188/

Back in May I bought Ian's 145. This is certainly a big project but I think it will be a lot of fun. Off the delivery truck it was running, but running quite poorly. Had to floor it to get up to speed. Once I got it home though I got to enjoy the incredible amount of parts and supplies! There should be just about everything to give it an interior again.
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The next day, I drove it to my local volvo friend to start some diagnosis. First thing I noticed is that the door REAAALLY did not want to open and close all the way. We sprayed the hinge and every other rare piece of metal that rubs on another rare piece of metal with a bunch of lithium grease.
Ugly volvo still ugly after being lubricated with lithium.


This quote from the owner's manual is now my life's motto.
To avoid rattle and unnecessary wear, the body should be lubricated once a year.


To get this thing under my name I needed to get it smog ready. Yes, if you want to register a car made after 1966 in Tucson or Phoenix you have to get it smogged. We cleaned the distributor's points and set the gap which remedied the lack of power. Then we drove around town in search of spark plugs. As part of that we confirmed that it indeed did not like to start hot! Soon enough we found that the reason for this was at least one big hole in the intake/exhaust manifold gasket. I plugged it with unnecessarily strong goo.
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I ordered a new gasket and went along with my work week. I did some more lubing and replaced the hatch's gas spring with a new one in the pile of parts. After a while I noticed it had a bit of a lean...
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Whoops. Turns out that tire and the spare needed new valve stems. That Friday I got them replaced and came down with covid. Once I recovered I bought some vinyl from Joanne's Fabrics and set to work on my first carburettor disassembly on the dining room table. One seemed to be stickier than the other but after a clean they passed the drop test. All I replaced were the gaskets to the air cleaner.
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While the mainfold was off I found the red under the gunk.
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Attached it all with new studs and mostly new nuts. With those leaks fixed it was much quietier and had no problem starting when hot.
New radiator cap in the bottom right as well.


Later I removed the AC compressor and found that it really is a B20!
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With the leaks fixed, carburettors set to stock, and all the "eco" features permanently disabled by previous owners, it was as good as it was gonna be for the smog test. I took it to Michael's auto, a local guy who only works on red blocks, to see how it would do.
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We've got a winner! I immediately took it to the smog station and it got the same reading the manual says it's supposed to.
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It has earned its shiny copper license plate.
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Next up, replacing all the fluids and the rest of the basic maintenance to teach myself and record the dates. Once it cools down I'll start sanding EVERYTHING to start on its path to a respectability. My goal is to drive it to the snowball rally in the bay area next year.
 
We sprayed the hinge and every other rare piece of metal that rubs on another rare piece of metal with a bunch of lithium grease.

Yes yes yes yes yes yes yes. :nod:

Can't tell from your photo, but did the 140 series use a similar door hinge design as the 240s? IF so, there's a hole near the center for a special grease needle, to fill in the hinge pin cavity from the inside. To my eyes, it's not a zerk fitting so I didn't realize the purpose at first... (Thanks to CleanFlameTrap for the photo.)

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Various discussions:
 
Today I installed some new locks (from VP) to the doors. Now I'm up to 3 keys in each set!
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A fourth would be necessary for the tailgate, though I'm not sure where to find one of those cylinders. I also need to fashion this pin thing so that I can open the hatch from outside.
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We sprayed the hinge and every other rare piece of metal that rubs on another rare piece of metal with a bunch of lithium grease.
Ugly volvo still ugly after being lubricated with lithium.

I'll bet the door moved a bit better after that grease douche. Something you should know is that the strap that retains the door rides on a little rolling drum inside the door. Those drums commonly seize up and then slide on the strap instead of rolling. There should be no need of grease on the strap if the drum is free to roll. It makes a real difference in how the door movement feels.
 
That copper plate is sweet. What's the 77 next to arizona mean?
Before 1980 AZ plates were stamped with a year. Looks like in the 30s you got a new plate every year instead of a sticker. By the 60s they changed the year and color every few years and you updated it with a sticker. I guess 77 was the first year they did historic plates. At some point I'll try to find a yellow '69-'72 plate and put that on.
 
Yes yes yes yes yes yes yes. :nod:

Can't tell from your photo, but did the 140 series use a similar door hinge design as the 240s? IF so, there's a hole near the center for a special grease needle, to fill in the hinge pin cavity from the inside. To my eyes, it's not a zerk fitting so I didn't realize the purpose at first... (Thanks to CleanFlameTrap for the photo.)

hinge04.jpg
Just checked and it is the same! Couldn't really tell under all the gunk.
I'll bet the door moved a bit better after that grease douche. Something you should know is that the strap that retains the door rides on a little rolling drum inside the door. Those drums commonly seize up and then slide on the strap instead of rolling. There should be no need of grease on the strap if the drum is free to roll. It makes a real difference in how the door movement feels.
I think this is the main thing. It seems to catch on that strap rather than the hinges, but I will work on both!
 
the strap that retains the door rides on a little rolling drum inside the door. Those drums commonly seize up and then slide on the strap instead of rolling. There should be no need of grease on the strap if the drum is free to roll. It makes a real difference in how the door movement feels.

Very true, I'd forgotten that many manufacturers did that for many decades. And if you accidentally oil the drum surface, it significantly prefers to slide, so when you realize the mistake it becomes a real mess to clean it off enough to regain roller surface friction.

At which point, yes my gosh what an exquisite difference in feel! A modern sliding design cannot possibly obtain that.
 
Today I installed some new locks (from VP) to the doors. Now I'm up to 3 keys in each set!

A fourth would be necessary for the tailgate, though I'm not sure where to find one of those cylinders. I also need to fashion this pin thing so that I can open the hatch from outside.
jQUpRyq.jpeg
IIRC, the hatch lock cylinder is the same as the door lock cylinder.
Damn. I had some of those hatch lock assemblies (and the sliding pin) from my '70 and '72.
Not sure if they're still around.
 
Very true, I'd forgotten that many manufacturers did that for many decades. And if you accidentally oil the drum surface, it significantly prefers to slide, so when you realize the mistake it becomes a real mess to clean it off enough to regain roller surface friction.

At which point, yes my gosh what an exquisite difference in feel! A modern sliding design cannot possibly obtain that.
Ah. Is the contacting bit there what's supposed to roll?
 
I don't see the roller in the vid. I suspect that it is missing. That can happen after years of neglect. What I can see is a hole in the top surface of the bracket/housing, and another hole that is sometimes visible in the bottom surface. If I am not mistaken, those holes are where the axle for the drum would be. Now that you are in there, it is not a big deal to remove the whole deal from the door and inspect it. I could be wrong.
 
I don't see the roller in the vid. I suspect that it is missing. That can happen after years of neglect. What I can see is a hole in the top surface of the bracket/housing, and another hole that is sometimes visible in the bottom surface. If I am not mistaken, those holes are where the axle for the drum would be. Now that you are in there, it is not a big deal to remove the whole deal from the door and inspect it. I could be wrong.
You're right. On the passenger side it has the axle and is somewhat rolling.
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Back at it again today with my local mentor. He bought, smogged, and titled a '90 240 then we went to ACE to find a solution for the doorstops and hatch lock.

Here's the passenger-side mechanism with the "intact" rolly bit. The axle at top is rather worn.
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Cleaning
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On the driver's side, the axel had reamed out the hole until it fell out.
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Here's the solution, we found a bolt that fit the larger hole and a sleeve that could spin around it. In this pic you can also see the hatch lock cylinder compared to the door lock cylinder. Looking at VP the 120 cylinder is similar but not quite the same. If someone can sell me a cylinder with a key, let me know!
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Here it is installed.
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So quiet!!!
 
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