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Sunroof clean-up and adjustment

M

morsing

Active member
Joined
Jul 20, 2007
Location
Aylesbury, UK
'morning,

I have everything out, apart from the cables that seem permanently attached to the rear slider which is prevented from sliding out due to the self-tapping screw dimples for the rail cover.

I looked at the cables and first thought they were really dirty but they actually have built-in bristles. The front channels are completely dry, so are the cables themselves, so I assume they are not meant to be greased? They certainly don't look greased from the factory.

I also bought a new seal, part no. 681089, but it doesn't appear to fit anywhere. How do I replace the seal that I currently have?
 
I figured out the seal bit. I have ordered the two remaining seals and adhesive.

I think I will spray some PTFE grease in the cable channels.
 
Managed to get them off with a heat gun although still quite a bit of rubber glue residue left.

Is my signature not showing?
 
There are aerosol spray seal removers you can use.

I used some and razor blades to remove mine.

BUT...since I didn't know the trick to inserting the new seals correctly I never could get the sunroof to close: I spent a couple hundred to have a pro finish up the job.

Money well spent.
 
Pietercc said:
Even if it's in your signature, you should say what car. Many of us will work on other people's cars that aren't on our own signature, so we learn not to assume
Click to expand...
And more commonly relevant: signatures don't show up if you're reading on a phone.
 
Ok, well, it's a 240, but rubber glue is rubber glue.

I read vinegar would get it off, but it had no effect. My heat gun seems to be the only way to get some of it off, but I will have to leave most of it in place and just glue on top of it or my car will never be driveable again.
 
Mr. V said:
There are aerosol spray seal removers you can use.

I used some and razor blades to remove mine.

BUT...since I didn't know the trick to inserting the new seals correctly I never could get the sunroof to close: I spent a couple hundred to have a pro finish up the job.

Money well spent.
Click to expand...

I would rather not use metal on paint.

Care to share the trick? Looks pretty straight forward to me.
 
"The trick?"

It has to do with aligning the seals "exactly." so that when and where they meet at the rear they don't interfere with one another yet still touch to make a viable water barrier.

You need to bend the seal down "just so."

It's the "just so" that baffled me, but the pro knew.
 
Well, it's back in. I hate gluing. The rear seal, I just followed the mark on the paint from the old one and it fits perfectly.

Only problem is that it doesn't seem to move forward enough, but I can't figure out what would stop that (I took the gear off and rewound it a turn to make sure it wasn't that) other than just bumping against the front edge and seal. Does it just need to bed in and squash the seal a bit?


IMG_4481.jpgIMG_4485.jpgIMG_4482.jpgIMG_4480.jpg
 
Mr. V said:
Similar to what led me to seek the services of a pro: the rear seals were askew / not lined up correctly and hit each other when closing, preventing a complete closure.
Click to expand...

Even though there are no-where near each other? I'm not buying that.

And there isn't a sunroof "pro" within a 1 000 miles of me, so that just isn't going to happen.
 
The "Pro" told me I also had misaligned the large, flat rectangular piece of rubber that goes on the top part of the sunroof, at the rear.

Apparently there is little margin for error in placement.
 
Mr. V said:
The "Pro" told me I also had misaligned the large, flat rectangular piece of rubber that goes on the top part of the sunroof, at the rear.

Apparently there is little margin for error in placement.
Click to expand...

Yes, that is a worry, if I ever get to that point. My problem is still before the sunroof raises, so nothing to do with rear seals.

And my chances of finding a "pro" here who has ever done a Volvo 240 sunroof is nil.
 
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