volvorod85
New member
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2003
- Location
- Sunny Socal
Mod, if I put this in the wrong place please move accordingly.
Just finished my T-5 swap a few days ago!!
Ford T-5 transmission swap for 700 series.
The reason I swapped my M-46 for the T-5 was the fact my M-46 leaked pretty bad, and I never liked the gear ratios. With the T-5 you can go as far as to turn it into a straight cut gear dog tooth trans. There are many different gear sets avaiable for it, part are easy to come by, and the transmissions are easy to find. For 5th gear, there also also 2 different options, the second option is of course an aftermarket gear set.
Im writing this to hopefully fill in any gaps and answer questions reguarding the swap on a 700/900 series. This swap was done on my 1990 765 turbo, which only came auto, but I had previously converted it to the M-46 with the hydralic setup.
I picked up my T-5 from an ad in the Recycler (local classifidies) This is the parts list.....
T-5 Transmission.
Ford pilot bearing and release bearing (throw out bearing) for 87-93 V-8 5.0 mustang.
Ford clutch disc from 84-86 Mustang SVO 2.3 turbo. This is the 10 spline disc for the T-5, but is also 9" for those of you with the 9" flywheels. Or you can of course have your clutch custom made also. I used the factory Volvo pressure plate.
An adaptor plate to match the Volvo bell housing to the T-5. I used www.v-performance.com for the adaptor plate. The plate did not come with bolts, so your standard grade 5, 7/16" course thread bolts is what you need to get. There are 8 total. Also the 4 bolts in the T-5 input shaft need to have the lip ground down so the Volvo bell housing fits flat onto the adaptor, as you can see from the pic below.
Clutch fork modified to work with the Ford release bearing. V-performance also modified my clutch fork. They can set up your cable or hydralic forks.
A driveshaft yoke for the T-5 transmission. I went with the 2 peice Volvo driveshaft and had the Ford yoke mated to it with a U-joint. Vibration isnt an issue and it all fits nicely. You will have to talk to your local drivesahft shop about length. I was told to push the yoke in the trans all the way, pull it out once inch and measure from the center of the U-joint cap on the yoke, to the middle of the center support. Your driveshaft shop amy also be able to get you the correct yoke for the transmission.
The stock Mustang transmission mount for the T-5.
A 4x6" peice of 1/4 inch steel is what i used to bolt the mount to. Basically it gets welded to the Volvo crossmember in the middle. The trans mount will fit just in front of the crossmember, and all you have to do is drill 2 holes into the peice welded to the crossmember. The only problem I ran into here is the trans does not sit perfectly level, so the mount is cocked slightly. I put a few washers under one side to level out the mounting surface, I will soon have to adjust how its setup, im not sure what I will do yet.
Now onto the shifter mystery. Everyone says you have to cut the floor, which I did not want to do unless I had to. Maybe my car is different, but this is what I did. I put the trans in, shifter and all, but no handle on the shifter and no clutch for ease of installation. I saw where the shifter hit the floor, about 2 inches or so in front of the hole. I took the trans back out and took a hammer and pounded on the floor to move it up slightly, and I ground about 1/8-3/16" off the top of the ford stock shifter. I have almost 1/2 inch clearance between the top of the shifter and the floor with the trans fully installed. Now remember your results may vary, the only thing you can do is get it in there, and see where everything is. As for a shifter handle, I went to the local hardware store, grabbed a 3' peice of 1/2 roundbar. Took my torch and got the end red hot, and flattened it with a hammer to bolt onto the ford shifter. I made 2, 90 degree bends. The stock shifter handle goes straight up onto the shifter. I did mine upsidown. Basically the handle looks like a U as you can see in the picture. The bend into the car was not enough, so I bent it a bit more and it's perfect. I went to pepboys, picked up this trick shifter knob with a light up shift pattern it in, put it on the end. Painted the handle Cast Cote color. (its a dark brownish grey) I still need to work out a boot and insulation for the floor. I pull probably get a sheet of rubber and fabricate that, then find a universal boot for the rest.
Overall its a simple conversion, just takes time and money. Fabrication is minimal. I hope this clears up any holes that I noticed in the "acrives" about this swap on the 700/900's
Pic of shifter before floor mod
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wODYzNTAwNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg
Pic of floor after hammering
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wODYzNTAzNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg
Pic of handle attached to ford shifter
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wODYzNTAyNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg
Pic of shifter in floor (I bent the shifter up a bit more to make the handle a bit farther forward
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wODYzNTAxNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg
Pic of modded clutch fork
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wODY3MTk4NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg
Pic of T-5 ready to go with Volvo bell housing installed
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wODY3MTk3NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg
Pic of my shifter at night
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wODY3MTk2NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg
Pic of shifter daytime. The knob comes with different size nylon inserts and 3 set screws
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wODY3MjA4NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg
Pic of inputshaft bolts ground down
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wODY3MjEyNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg
Just finished my T-5 swap a few days ago!!
Ford T-5 transmission swap for 700 series.
The reason I swapped my M-46 for the T-5 was the fact my M-46 leaked pretty bad, and I never liked the gear ratios. With the T-5 you can go as far as to turn it into a straight cut gear dog tooth trans. There are many different gear sets avaiable for it, part are easy to come by, and the transmissions are easy to find. For 5th gear, there also also 2 different options, the second option is of course an aftermarket gear set.
Im writing this to hopefully fill in any gaps and answer questions reguarding the swap on a 700/900 series. This swap was done on my 1990 765 turbo, which only came auto, but I had previously converted it to the M-46 with the hydralic setup.
I picked up my T-5 from an ad in the Recycler (local classifidies) This is the parts list.....
T-5 Transmission.
Ford pilot bearing and release bearing (throw out bearing) for 87-93 V-8 5.0 mustang.
Ford clutch disc from 84-86 Mustang SVO 2.3 turbo. This is the 10 spline disc for the T-5, but is also 9" for those of you with the 9" flywheels. Or you can of course have your clutch custom made also. I used the factory Volvo pressure plate.
An adaptor plate to match the Volvo bell housing to the T-5. I used www.v-performance.com for the adaptor plate. The plate did not come with bolts, so your standard grade 5, 7/16" course thread bolts is what you need to get. There are 8 total. Also the 4 bolts in the T-5 input shaft need to have the lip ground down so the Volvo bell housing fits flat onto the adaptor, as you can see from the pic below.
Clutch fork modified to work with the Ford release bearing. V-performance also modified my clutch fork. They can set up your cable or hydralic forks.
A driveshaft yoke for the T-5 transmission. I went with the 2 peice Volvo driveshaft and had the Ford yoke mated to it with a U-joint. Vibration isnt an issue and it all fits nicely. You will have to talk to your local drivesahft shop about length. I was told to push the yoke in the trans all the way, pull it out once inch and measure from the center of the U-joint cap on the yoke, to the middle of the center support. Your driveshaft shop amy also be able to get you the correct yoke for the transmission.
The stock Mustang transmission mount for the T-5.
A 4x6" peice of 1/4 inch steel is what i used to bolt the mount to. Basically it gets welded to the Volvo crossmember in the middle. The trans mount will fit just in front of the crossmember, and all you have to do is drill 2 holes into the peice welded to the crossmember. The only problem I ran into here is the trans does not sit perfectly level, so the mount is cocked slightly. I put a few washers under one side to level out the mounting surface, I will soon have to adjust how its setup, im not sure what I will do yet.
Now onto the shifter mystery. Everyone says you have to cut the floor, which I did not want to do unless I had to. Maybe my car is different, but this is what I did. I put the trans in, shifter and all, but no handle on the shifter and no clutch for ease of installation. I saw where the shifter hit the floor, about 2 inches or so in front of the hole. I took the trans back out and took a hammer and pounded on the floor to move it up slightly, and I ground about 1/8-3/16" off the top of the ford stock shifter. I have almost 1/2 inch clearance between the top of the shifter and the floor with the trans fully installed. Now remember your results may vary, the only thing you can do is get it in there, and see where everything is. As for a shifter handle, I went to the local hardware store, grabbed a 3' peice of 1/2 roundbar. Took my torch and got the end red hot, and flattened it with a hammer to bolt onto the ford shifter. I made 2, 90 degree bends. The stock shifter handle goes straight up onto the shifter. I did mine upsidown. Basically the handle looks like a U as you can see in the picture. The bend into the car was not enough, so I bent it a bit more and it's perfect. I went to pepboys, picked up this trick shifter knob with a light up shift pattern it in, put it on the end. Painted the handle Cast Cote color. (its a dark brownish grey) I still need to work out a boot and insulation for the floor. I pull probably get a sheet of rubber and fabricate that, then find a universal boot for the rest.
Overall its a simple conversion, just takes time and money. Fabrication is minimal. I hope this clears up any holes that I noticed in the "acrives" about this swap on the 700/900's
Pic of shifter before floor mod
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wODYzNTAwNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg
Pic of floor after hammering
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wODYzNTAzNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg
Pic of handle attached to ford shifter
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wODYzNTAyNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg
Pic of shifter in floor (I bent the shifter up a bit more to make the handle a bit farther forward
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wODYzNTAxNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg
Pic of modded clutch fork
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wODY3MTk4NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg
Pic of T-5 ready to go with Volvo bell housing installed
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wODY3MTk3NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg
Pic of my shifter at night
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wODY3MTk2NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg
Pic of shifter daytime. The knob comes with different size nylon inserts and 3 set screws
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wODY3MjA4NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg
Pic of inputshaft bolts ground down
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wODY3MjEyNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg