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+T Parts List, Questions.

BassGuy

BassGuy

Active member
Joined
Aug 10, 2010
Location
Sarnia, ON
So I'm setting up to purchase a 91 245, and thought I'd compile a list of stuff I'm planning on pulling from my now dormant 87 760.

Goals are maybe 220hp, DD. Something that I can scoot around town with, and pass nicely on the highway :D

List:
turbo + manifold
airbox/intake piping/intercooler piping
intercooler, brackets
CBV (even though I'm planning on a 15g)
coolant lines (rad hoses)
oil filter relocator, cooler, lines
turbo cam, valve shims (just in case)
injectors, resistor pack

The ECU/EZK, I'm planning on buying (here?) since the 760 is LH2.2, and the 240 is LH2.4, and I'm fairly certain I can just swap out the computers and not have to mess with the harnesses. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Also, is it worth it for me to pull the 760 downpipe? Will it fit (enough) or will I just be causing myself headaches? If headaches, I can have my buddy just weld me a downpipe.

Is a wideband reeeeally necessary for me at this point? I'll have a calibrated boost gauge, and don't plan on turning up the boost past 15psi, if I even get that high.

For the oil feed and return, I'm planning on tapping the block and going with SS lines.
 
What is the general knock threshold for these motors? I'd rather not have to spend the money, but later on I will if the setup/goals require it.
 
Downpipe will fit with ~1" cut out before the first bend. Some say it's not needed, but it was for me when I used a T3.

ECU and ign. computer from LH2.4 Turbo car. I can sell you a tested 937 ECU if you need it (non-EGR LH2.4 from a 940 turbo...using one in my '92 240 F+T). Also need to cut one of the wires to the TPS, WOT signal or something...do some searching/reading on this.

You don't need to change the AMM. You should extend the wires and move it to the other side of the engine bay (pre-turbo).

Oil cooler and lines don't really fit directly from 7 to 2 series. A 240 oil cooler kit might be preferred, or fab some lines, or just bend 'em and make it work.

Turbo cam is not worth pulling, assuming you're referring to the stock T cam in the 760.
 
Thanks, Towery. I was planning on the ECU/IGN computers from a 940 Turbo. So the "turbo" cam (it is a T cam, eh?) wouldn't be any better than what's in the NA 240?

I think I'll try bend the oil cooler lines, since I'm working on limited budget/what I have available, mostly. Things that I need to make the +T work for sure, I'll buy, but otherwise, transplant as much as possible.
 
BassGuy said:
What is the general knock threshold for these motors? I'd rather not have to spend the money, but later on I will if the setup/goals require it.
Click to expand...

It is said to be around 12psi or so. Spend the money on a wideband to be safe. Knowing AFR's can also help in tuning and diagnosing problems
 
BassGuy said:
So the "turbo" cam (it is a T cam, eh?) wouldn't be any better than what's in the NA 240?
Click to expand...

it will be a little better down low, they both die early, prolly not worth the trouble - even though it's an easy swap. if you can afford something a bit hotter, $200-300 will buy a baller cam(ipd/rsi) - or you can look for an ipd turbo cam or k cam(A or B might be worth it if cheap enough) to pop up used
 
you can get a wideband for $100-150, and if you plan on beating on it it's worth it. if you can't afford a good cam, start checking for sale, pretty much anything is better than a T or M cam
 
An oil alternative it to order an oil filter relocation kit from summit or jegs, and mount the oil filter in teh fender behind the bumper on the right side...then you can mount the oil cooler in the front right behind the grill with a few easily made brackets....cut the hoses of the fittings on the stock oil cooler so you can attach rubber lines with clamps. Run the stock oil cooler adaptor on the remote oil filter adaptor with rubber lines and clamps. Done it like on 3 cars with no leaks and no issues...and the oil filter doesnt make a mess on the crossmember either :p

Mark
 
You could also get the water-oil heat exchanger setup from a later 940 Turbo and run that, fits fine on a 240. I have that on my '92 240 F+T because the donor car was a '93 940 Turbo and by then they'd started using this instead of the air-cooled oil cooler element as used on the earlier cars. The downside is that you're putting more thermal load on the cooling system, but it seems to work well enough and it will help control oil temp.
 
olov said:
you can get a wideband for $100-150, and if you plan on beating on it it's worth it. if you can't afford a good cam, start checking for sale, pretty much anything is better than a T or M cam
Click to expand...

I have to say other wise. some ppl like Mcam some ppl like kcam over rsi stage1 turbo cam. its all in what you like not what other ppl like or think its better:roll:
 
ok, M/T cams were made specifically for american emissions compliancy afaik, they were made to die up top, they were made with greenhouse gas reduction in mind - not with performance. it is a fact pretty much any cam will out perform them. although you are correct, some may enjoy the slight torque upgrade and never rev their car above 3500rpm - so they will only notice a power drop in their driving style my car has a canadian A cam, it's not shimmed properly and doesn't get 100% of the lift it should, and it still pulls better than the M did above 3k
 
yea your rite though, I guess it wouldnt hurt to try another cam I just dont want to much of an over lap with a BIGGturbo you know what I mean? I chose the Mcam over a Tcam any day.
 
If I can threadjack a bit, but still on topic.
what about one way valves on vacuum accessories like for climate control, and the charcoal canister. Do one way valves need to be added to non-turbo cars so you don't have places for boost to leak out?
 
After seeing my B230F dyno graph with a K cam with no cam timing adjustment, and some tuning, I wouldn't discount the K as a low end torque cam. Flat torque from ~1900-4700rpm. M and T have no place in this forum. :-P
 
towerymt said:
Also need to cut one of the wires to the TPS, WOT signal or something...do some searching/reading on this.
Click to expand...

I recently did a +T on my 240, and this is the first time I've seen this recommended. I searched through the forums, and couldn't find good information on this.

Is this a necessary procedure when +Ting a 2.4 car?
 
WalterHansen said:
I recently did a +T on my 240, and this is the first time I've seen this recommended. I searched through the forums, and couldn't find good information on this.

Is this a necessary procedure when +Ting a 2.4 car?
Click to expand...
No, the OP is +Ting a LH2.2 car and using LH2.4 computers.
 
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