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Texas 240 sugmotor cooling system

sloopy

2-digit whp
Joined
May 25, 2020
Location
Dallas, Texas
I'm planning my high-compression b230 sugmotor build and need some help making some decisons about my cooling system. I live in Texas, so I really want to do this right.

I figure it might be a good idea to get a new radiator since mine is old. I'm assuming the stock radiator is sized big enough. So should I stick with the stock nissens with plastic end tanks, or are those all aluminum radiators a better option? A drop-in replacement which utilizes the stock mounts, isolators, and hoses would be ideal. And thinking about an oil cooler, (mine doesn't have one as far as I'm aware) would it be worthwhile to try to use a radiator with the automatic transmission oil cooler to cool my engine oil? Or would it be better to use the stock turbo oil cooler or even a universal oil cooler mounted in front of the condenser?

Now thinking about the fan; Currently, I have a mechanical cooling fan plus the little electric pusher in front of the condenser. I want to convert to an electric cooling fan and ditch the mechanical fan and the electric pusher. STS machining sells this e-fan setup (https://www.stsmachininginc.com/products/e-fan-set-up-for-redblock-240-740-volvos-1975-1993) which uses a spal 16" single-speed fan. Potentially, I could control the fan speed via pwm. I'm not sure if I should be concerned about introducing a bunch of noise into the electrical system (thinking about the ham radio and the stereo system). I also don't really know how I would accomplish it. I'm sure my maxxecu race can be programmed to control the fan using a pwm output, but I guess I would need some sort of mosfet or something to power the fan because a mechanical relay will not be able to handle pwm speeds. Another option is using a volvo 850 fan which is also 16" but has two speeds. This would allow me to use volvo's nice little relay and power distribution brick. I don't know much about how the different speeds are used in practice though. I guess I would have two temperature thresholds which would trigger the two different speeds. I guess I would also use a digital input on the maxxecu connected to the a/c switch or something which would trigger either the low-speed or high-speed fan output.

Once I make a decision on all of that, I need to figure out what I want to do about the shroud. I've seen some people mount the electric fan right up against the radiator without a shroud. Seems like a very simple setup which allows the best airflow at speed, but limits the cooling ability of the fan. Or, like the STS machining shroud (and all of the oem shrouds) there are flaps in the shroud which get sucked shut to allow the fan to pull air through the radiator, but will allow more passive airflow through the radiator at speed. Another interesting setup I've seen is using a plain shroud without the flaps, but the shroud doesn't span the whole width of the radiator which would allow more passive airflow at speed. I like the simplicity of this, but not sure of the impact on cooling at idle. Theoretically, the fan is pulling air through all of the cooling channels, but not across the whole width of them.
 
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Add heater valve bypass- there is some evidence that this helps to keep #4 cylinder cooler.
3 row radiator with 16" Spal puller is a great combo. Shroud is not necessary if you mount it close enough to the fins. I powered mine through the resistor because full speed straight from the battery was too noisy.
 
For what it's worth the only time we've had cooling issues in the ~145whp Lemons car is when the generic auto parts store fan mounted to the radiator turned out to have reversed polarity from the one we had installed before (?) and hot air got blown back across the radiator.

I think the 940 fan+shroud fits just right if you cut the flippy flappies off.
 
The STS fan might be fine in texas heat with a condenser in front of it, we used one on the 2.5L 16v rally car without any problems. The 9-series fan moves significantly more air if you need it.
 
Is the 92+ 940 non-turbo radiator a simple swap in a 240? Towery says it's the same height as a stock 240 radiator. And it looks like I could rip the stock air box out and move the left side radiator mounts in place of the air box mounts assuming the width matches up. Otherwise, I guess you could drill new holes and relocate the threaded block. Then the volvo electric fan and shroud are bolt-on. Except it looks like the 940 fans are no longer available (or I'm blind). I think I read somewhere that the 850 fan is basically the same and will bolt up and that it's just lower profile.
 
My high comp 8 valve stays cool with a factory clutch fan and 3 row rad. YMMV, I just like to have fun on backroads and hay fields so if you're tracking the car or something you might need more.
 
I might autocross it casually, but nothing more than that and some bouts of spirited driving. Do you have any driving videos? I wanna hear that thing. I think electric fans are cool and it's so easy to control if you have a standalone ecu.
 
Is the 92+ 940 non-turbo radiator a simple swap in a 240? Towery says it's the same height as a stock 240 radiator. And it looks like I could rip the stock air box out and move the left side radiator mounts in place of the air box mounts assuming the width matches up. Otherwise, I guess you could drill new holes and relocate the threaded block. Then the volvo electric fan and shroud are bolt-on. Except it looks like the 940 fans are no longer available (or I'm blind). I think I read somewhere that the 850 fan is basically the same and will bolt up and that it's just lower profile.
i have 1994 940 NA radiator in mine. (note that 1995 NA 940 radiator will not fit, ask me how i know :roll:) You need to fab some upper radiator brackets but the lowers are already perfect when you move the right side rubber bumper into the original hole for the airbox. for the airbox I am running a cut in half 240 airbox pushed in sideways where the battery used to be but I am looking for something else as I am measuring a ~3kpa drop pre-throttle body and think it is a restriction. I haven't yet installed the 940 e-fan so I have the original mech fan without a shroud, but that got me through summer dd duty without a single temp issue. (coastal masshole climate, perhaps)
 
Do you have any pictures of your upper radiator brackets? Because it looks like they should be the same. Kinda looks like you might have to cut those bottom feet off.

open-uri20170612-3626-ewbsoo.
 
Do you have any pictures of your upper radiator brackets? Because it looks like they should be the same. Kinda looks like you might have to cut those bottom feet off.

open-uri20170612-3626-ewbsoo.
you are correct, I did cut the feet off the tanks but forgot about that. I will get pictures of my brackets today if it stops sleeting out. be prepared, they are hacky. IIRC the rad is like an inch and a half taller than the stock 240 rad, so you could space up the stock upper brackets, or make some with aluminum bar (what I did.)
 
Can you measure the height of the radiator? I think the most relevant measurement would be the height of the metal crimp connection for the end tanks because I believe that's what the stock 240 radiator is mounted by.
 
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