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tfrasca's 142 Turbo Project

gsellstr said:
On the engine oil cooler, what about running something like the RX7 cooler, which would fit nicely below your IC? It also has a stat in it which might make things easier. I can get dimensions if you need, got one in my wagon, really seems to work well. Once I got it in good airflow, I haven't seen over about 230* which was in 105* stop and go traffic. When moving, I can't get it over about 220.

I will probably go that route, but also the 74 valence is slotted so it'll get a ton more air right down up front, where you had to drill for airflow in yours. I've got the airdam on there as well, so it should do nicely.
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Yeah there is some space below the intercooler, but I?m trying to avoid putting the oil cooler in front of the radiator. This car had cooling problems before and I think that was part of it. Either way, the rx7 one sounds cool if it has an integrated thermostat.
 
Tfrasca said:
It?s my old b23. The b230 looks solid, I just need to have it machined for Yoshi pistons and I have no plans to do that any time soon. So I?ve been mocking everything up on the grenaded block.
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Ok I almost crapped myself. Good to know.
 
Stupid question: what is wrong with cutting a hole on the front of the right wheel well, making a duct from back of headlights to this hole, and then putting the oil cooler in between? I ASSume that is where the battery goes but I have no idea of how much vertical space is above the battery.
 
dalek said:
Stupid question: what is wrong with cutting a hole on the front of the right wheel well, making a duct from back of headlights to this hole, and then putting the oil cooler in between? I ASSume that is where the battery goes but I have no idea of how much vertical space is above the battery.
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This is likely where the battery and/or catch can will go. It could work for a cooler and associated ducting, but it would mean cutting a pretty big hole in the fender, which I'd rather not do.
 
It's surprising how tall that inner fender well gets how fast. My battery ended in the trunk because the volume for the battery ended up getting filled with brake booster, radiator catch can, and intercooler piping.

I know you don't want to block off the radiator more but what about blocking off just on one side? My oil cooler lives on one side of the grill.
 
joel142 said:
It's surprising how tall that inner fender well gets how fast. My battery ended in the trunk because the volume for the battery ended up getting filled with brake booster, radiator catch can, and intercooler piping.

I know you don't want to block off the radiator more but what about blocking off just on one side? My oil cooler lives on one side of the grill.
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Yeah, that's how my oil cooler was positioned for the 8 valve and I always felt like it impacted overall engine cooling. I never had any conclusive results to prove that, though. But the car ran hot, and I can't fit a bigger radiator, so I want to avoid stacking up heat exchangers.

To be honest, this whole project is about to be put on hold for a bit while we prepare to sell our house and move north. Maybe by being forced not to just try things, I'll gain some clarity on how to actually do them.

:e-shrug:
 
Tfrasca said:
Yeah, that's how my oil cooler was positioned for the 8 valve and I always felt like it impacted overall engine cooling. I never had any conclusive results to prove that, though. But the car ran hot, and I can't fit a bigger radiator, so I want to avoid stacking up heat exchangers.
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Mine is just about to get onto the road. It went around the block successfully last weekend and it's ready to go further afield. I'll keep you looped into my cooling adventures.

Tfrasca said:
To be honest, this whole project is about to be put on hold for a bit while we prepare to sell our house and move north. Maybe by being forced not to just try things, I'll gain some clarity on how to actually do them.

:e-shrug:
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The number of times I'd go out at the garage, stare at the engine bay for a while, maybe walk around it, and then go back into the house to wrench on bicycles or do anything else...
 
stacking the exchangers isn't an issue as long as stuff is ducted and sealed up good, but therein lies the challenge. great project and good luck with selling the house!
 
joel142 said:
Mine is just about to get onto the road. It went around the block successfully last weekend and it's ready to go further afield. I'll keep you looped into my cooling adventures.

The number of times I'd go out at the garage, stare at the engine bay for a while, maybe walk around it, and then go back into the house to wrench on bicycles or do anything else...
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If/when my car ever runs, I'll be living in Corvallis, Oregon. I've been known to do some pretty dumb drives, and Seattle doesn't seem that far. Maybe we can meet up and compare notes.
 
linuxman51 said:
stacking the exchangers isn't an issue as long as stuff is ducted and sealed up good, but therein lies the challenge. great project and good luck with selling the house!
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Yeah, it's going to be tough to seal things on this car, but I plan to try. That, and I really want to figure out some kind of belly pan to keep the air moving under the car and behind the radiator. And thanks!
 
Man, it's been a wild year so far. We finally have all our stuff (and my Volvo) moved into the new house in Corvallis, Oregon. There's still a lot to be done before I can start working on the car again, but at least it's in a garage and I can start thinking about it again. I actually came here to check on where I left off - that's how far from my mind it's been. Once I get the garage cleared out, I can start on building some benches and getting my shop set up dialed back in. My old space in CA was VERY small, but I had it pretty well set up for my entry-level fabrication stuff. Hoping this slightly larger space allows for some tools I couldn't fit before.

wNbHX8il.jpg


In a tangentially related update, I kind of impulsively bought another car. I've wanted one since high school and although the turbos have become unattainable for me, I found a cheap NA 944 that needs a little work. The idea was to find a car that I could drive for fun since my Volvo hasn't run for years and likely will take another year. This 944 is more of a project than I wanted, but it's a running, driving example with decent paint for a good price and I just had to. Part of my hopes the timing belt lets go before I can get to it, so I can contemplate a vr6 swap...

8MXrS7Ol.jpg


ANYWAY, my update is that the Volvo is in another state, and in another month or so, I should be able to keep chipping away at it. Can't wait!
 
Tfrasca said:
Follow-up question: Anyone know how much travel the hydraulic 740 slave cylinder has in normal operation? Since I won't be able to drop my trans any time soon, measuring slave cylinder travel is the only test I'll be able to do to see if everything is sized correctly.
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Going back to this, I used the factory 122 master (.75? bore) and a 740 slave. It would over-extend the slave to the point that the seal would come out of the bore and puke all the fluid out and then Kyle?s dad has to flat tow your broken car back to his house in the middle of the night in the scariest hillbilly part of the state. I guess that issue is easy enough to remedy with a pedal stop though.
 
AndrewNance said:
Going back to this, I used the factory 122 master (.75? bore) and a 740 slave. It would over-extend the slave to the point that the seal would come out of the bore and puke all the fluid out and then Kyle?s dad has to flat tow your broken car back to his house in the middle of the night in the scariest hillbilly part of the state. I guess that issue is easy enough to remedy with a pedal stop though.
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Well, hopefully that's good for me, since I have a 5/8 master. As long as the stroke is the same as the 122 one you used, I'll probably be ok?
 
Tfrasca said:
Well, hopefully that's good for me, since I have a 5/8 master. As long as the stroke is the same as the 122 one you used, I'll probably be ok?
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I?m guessing the bore size/fluid volume affects slave travel more than the stroke of the master? I think all of the different bore sizes within one manufacturer have the same stroke but obviously will move different amounts of fluid at different pressures. My plan was to just limit the pedal travel with a big bolt or something. I?m getting ready to put Tilton pedals in mine and I went with a .70 bore master in anticipation of buying a Yoshifab clutch for a basic flat flywheel.
 
AndrewNance said:
I?m guessing the bore size/fluid volume affects slave travel more than the stroke of the master? I think all of the different bore sizes within one manufacturer have the same stroke but obviously will move different amounts of fluid at different pressures. My plan was to just limit the pedal travel with a big bolt or something. I?m getting ready to put Tilton pedals in mine and I went with a .70 bore master in anticipation of buying a Yoshifab clutch for a basic flat flywheel.
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I don't know. There's math that could be done here, but I'm certainly not about to do that right now.

Which Tilton pedals are you going with? In the process of cobbling my pedals together, I started to think a bolt-on solution would be nice.
 
Tfrasca said:
I don't know. There's math that could be done here, but I'm certainly not about to do that right now.

Which Tilton pedals are you going with? In the process of cobbling my pedals together, I started to think a bolt-on solution would be nice.
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I?m using the 600 series hanging pedals and mounting them to a frame like Kyle did in his wagon. It?s more work than I cared to do but I was never going to be able to get a booster or even just a dual-circuit master to fit in the engine bay so my brakes just weren?t going to work properly.
 
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