• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

The Buchka 242 Fake Racecar

Every time i glance over this thread it makes me go and do some shiz to my 242, even when it's locked away in a container waiting for it's turn haha. Keep it going!!

ADam
 
Thanks dudes!

So much sanding! I’d like to see the pile of spent sandpaper so far.

You guys are making it happen. Incredible.

I don't want to know. It would be a big pile. We've almost consumed a gallon of body filler so far, 90% of which has likely been sanded into dust. I've also developed opinions on the effectiveness of various brands and types of sand paper - something I never hoped to achieve.
 
Super Assilex is where it’s at for sandpaper…at least as far as hand sanding paint is concerned.
Haven't tried that one yet. The biggest factor I've found so far is abrasive type. Aluminum oxide paper is is essentially useless for sanding anything but primer. I've settled on Dura Gold 2.75" PSA rolls for dry blocking, 600 and finer grits clog really quickly which isn't super fun but the cost and convenience are hard to beat.

For wet sanding gelcoat silicon carbide paper is absolutely mandatory. 3M Wetordry aluminum oxide will go dull in about 20 seconds on tooling gelcoat whereas silicon carbide cuts for 15-20 minutes. The difference in performance is pretty startling.

Progress on the wing plug continues. We "rough" blocked the first coat of primer with 80 grit and shot a second coat. We sanded through to the printed part and body filler in a few areas at the edges but the plug is 6" wider than the finished wing so this won't show up in the final part. This photo is showing the plug after dry blocking to 800.
W0hHApY.jpg


Here's the plug after wet blocking to 1500 and two rounds of polishing showing nearly the finished product. We burned through the primer in one more small area on this surface that will show through to the gelcoat. This will be far less time consuming to fix in the mold later rather than priming and re-blocking the whole part.
AmqaSIZ.jpg
 
Haven't tried that one yet. The biggest factor I've found so far is abrasive type. Aluminum oxide paper is is essentially useless for sanding anything but primer. I've settled on Dura Gold 2.75" PSA rolls for dry blocking, 600 and finer grits clog really quickly which isn't super fun but the cost and convenience are hard to beat.

For wet sanding gelcoat silicon carbide paper is absolutely mandatory. 3M Wetordry aluminum oxide will go dull in about 20 seconds on tooling gelcoat whereas silicon carbide cuts for 15-20 minutes. The difference in performance is pretty startling.
FWIW I've done a ton of fiberglass work with 3m stikit gold rolls and 3m cubitron disks for DAs. Never had an issue with wear, have you tried using a coarser grit to start? They work great in the grit range I use for body work (80-320).

600 dry will always clog unless you're using vacuum blocks/sanders.
 
Back
Top