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Yep, I'll see what has to be done to make it work. I'm ordering tires this week and hoo boy is it hard to find name-brand 14s.
That would be even nicer since they are a bit wider! @fatcatbestcat
www.canadiantire.ca
I don't think 225s will fit in the stock rear tubs... I did manage to find a set of Toyos in 195/75R14 so that should work. If the weather holds up this weekend, I'm going to get them mounted and balanced, and see if I need to/can grind the rear calipers to fit.Just get these, they're actually made by Hankook and dirt cheap(and on sale) until you find something else. 195/70/14
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Welp, I appreciate you looking - but too late
Yeah, make it run and drive safely, wash it and enjoy it for a while. Then figure out what to do. You can always restore it piece by piece and still keep it reasonably running.Welp, I appreciate you looking - but too late
I'm really prone to making impulse buys - I saw tires, I ordered tires, I received tires.
I was thinking about blasting, de-curbing and powder coating the Coronas, but that decision was forfeited as the powder coating equipment was removed from the shop before I got there today. Womp womp. Guess I'm just POR-ing everything later.
Spent a cursory 14 seconds washing the wheels just to get the cobwebs and shit bits off of them.
Yes, they look terrible - have you seen the car?
Took me a pretty embarrassingly long amount of time to re-familiarize myself with the tire machine. I thought I broke it halfway, just blew a fuse is all. Couldn't quite get all the beads seated, there's no bead blaster at the shop and I didn't feel like trying the fire method. Got one mounted and inflating using the ratchet strap method, but I think I will be taking the other three to the tire shop.
Anyway, compression test didn't really reveal anything too helpful. At first I was a bit panicked that I was getting seriously sub-100 psi readings, but that was cold and the motor hasn't really run for more than 3-5 minutes at a time because it has no coolant in it. It doesn't blow any smoke, so that's promising for the condition.
Otherwise, yeah - I accomplished basically nothing today. I'm starting to think this would be cooler at a rat rod that's barely functional rather than taking it apart piece by piece and cleaning, painting and reassembling the right way. Apart from the rust on the body (and the one frame spot), it's actually pretty solid. I was surprised that most of the suspension is actually okay, with no rust holes through wishbones or the brake backing plates etc.
I will definitely be redoing the brakes, though.
Unfortunately, I can't drive it like that. The car needs to pass a safety inspection to get plates, and they're really stringent in my area. Not a lot of shops will touch a car older than 20 years, and I had plenty just take a cursory look at my 940 and fail it because something "looked" wrong. Even if I did my 144 by the book, I don't think anything less than a factory fresh restoration will satisfy a lot of the places in my neighborhood. Most people with cars like this "know a guy" but I currently don't know anyone that would give it a fair shake for safety.
I'm sure the larger flakes will peel right off. I know there's a lot of bondo in the rear of the car, where some rust repair evidently happened but otherwise the paint seems fine. I sort of like the ratty look - means I don't have to care too much if I scratch anything on it. The front fenders have definitely been repainted - they aren't original and the insides of one are orange, the other is green inside.
It has a glorious patina. You can’t fake the coolness of that feature.
Yeah, that´s what I meant. My english, I´m swedish you know. Make it driveable, safe and legal to drive.
It´s similar in Sweden. After 50 years cars do not longer has to be inspected. However, they have to pass one final inspection in year 49.
I wish that was the case here - from what I know, any car that's registered needs a safety certificate and insurance to get license plates so you can drive it. The only exception is for some very specific things like farm use vehicles, if the car is being transferred to your spouse etc.
Sick standards! So the brake shoes has to be inspected and measured? Silly! Why not just test the brakes and see if they are working well.
. They're not that bad or serious, and a good thing to do anyway if you don't trust yourself to check everything on your own. If I want a "real" safety, like if I'm selling it, a lot of places I've been to will do the safety, you pay for it and if it fails, they give you a list of things it needs fixing. You fix those things, bring it back and they just check those and give it a pass. Usually for little to no extra money(since they did the full inspection already).
In my experience, this is very location-dependent. More rural areas seem to "care" less (aka nitpick less) - in my area, they're not very lenient.
, and two 10 day permits can get you pretty far. In my experience, this is very location-dependent. More rural areas seem to "care" less (aka nitpick less) - in my area, they're not very lenient.
I'm not totally against legitimate safety inspections and all; it just really sucks if you have a perfectly serviceable car and need to do major work to satisfy a picky shop. Especially if you just bought the car and don't have plates on it yet and have to pay to tow it everywhere.
I also am bitching about this like I'll ever actually be driving that 144
I'm contemplating grabbing that Rover 3500 that was at the field it came out of, just to rip the V8 and transmission out of it for this car...
Seriously, you don´t have the skills to succesfully do that transplant. Neither do I.
