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The new look.

I can move it to Projects if you like.
Yes please.
Little much for a coldstart don't you think?
When in doubt replace a human with anything cheaper
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Good idea. I found a momentary switch in my stash. I'll just do that.
 
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This car is getting a lot more sentimental. I inherited sort of Kenwood Chair’s old headlights and Jack gave me a grill. The metal bits are getting recoated by Jack. The reflectors in the light housing are pretty corroded I’m not sure what to do about that though.
 
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I got spark on all cylinders. I was running it with a jimmy switch adjusting the #1 tooth angle trying to find the 10 btdc when the battery died. It’s so close to running I can feel it.
 
So I tried changing the #1 tooth angle by 20 degrees over and over until I did the whole 360 and I never saw cylinder #1 come to TDC. What am I missing? Is it to 720? I’m confused.
Here are my settings.

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while I spend some time reading on running a car off a puter I figured I’d make it have a fidle so I had to make a charge pipe. A 22mm barb seemed hard to find online so I made one on the lathe and welded it on.

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The throttle bypass came super quick. Thanks Roy.
 
So I tried changing the #1 tooth angle by 20 degrees over and over until I did the whole 360 and I never saw cylinder #1 come to TDC. What am I missing? Is it to 720? I’m confused.
Here are my settings.

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Those settings look fine - was the timing moving at all when you changed the Tooth #1 Angle? I'm not sure if it's needed, but did you do a Burn after every Tooth #1 change? Is your disc mounted as shown in the Official DSM CAS Guide https://turbobricks.com/index.php?t...-information-and-install-guide.224740/page-11
 
Those settings look fine - was the timing moving at all when you changed the Tooth #1 Angle? I'm not sure if it's needed, but did you do a Burn after every Tooth #1 change? Is your disc mounted as shown in the Official DSM CAS Guide https://turbobricks.com/index.php?t...-information-and-install-guide.224740/page-11

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I think I have it right. The timing was too advanced and I couldn’t get it to retard or I went too far or something. I need to put the intake back together before I can try.

Should the IAT be in the manifold or in the charge pipe? I thought it might heat soak in the manifold.
 
If your picture is at TDC #1, then it's rotated ~180 crank degrees (90 disti/cam degrees) from the standard installation as shown in the guide. You could pull the whole CAS assembly and rotate it a few gear teeth to match the guide picture (at TDC #1), or you could try a tooth #1 angle of (720 - 180) = 540 deg.

You want the IAT to measure roughly the true intake air temp, so in the charge pipe somewhere between the intercooler and throttle body is good.

Is that a defect in your cas wheel, or an extra bit of junk, that's in the small hole below bottom of the inner slot?
 
it’s not TDC. I just wanted it to be the right side up. The wheel isn’t the best but that’s what I got.
 
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I got a new intake manifold with the barb for the iac still and put it on. I got an iac from Roy and put that on. The iat sensor is in the charge pipe now. I kinda don’t like the hose routing. It pinches a little. I missed a ground wire so I was having trouble getting everything to turn on after the big swap but it’s okay now I guess.
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I got a proper cone filter with non-crumbling foam.
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I made this plate thingie for the uS and relays.
 
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I made a new wiper fluid reservoir today since mine doesn’t seem to fit anymore. It’s 0.100” 5356 so welding it was kinda tough. The bender left little marks on it but at least it didn’t make little cracks like the first time.
 
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My npr intercooler was sitting on a 2x2” and it shifted and one of my upper brackets fell out. So I made a bracket.

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I also made an aluminum bracket for the oil cooler cuz that was just flailing too.
 
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