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The official DSM CAS information and install guide

http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/hardware.html#wiring

From this diagram it looks like the white and black wires you're looking at in the picture are connected as follows:

white wire to pin 24 on the main MS3 plug
black wire to pin 1 on the main MS3 plug

if so then the white wire is the crank pulse, which you figured out correctly to go to pin 2 on the CAS and the black wire is simply a ground (pin 1 on the main MS3 plug is grounded to the other ground pins on the main MS3 plug). You can use this black wire to go to pin 4 on the DSM CAS connector to provide a ground for the sensor.

In short:

EDIT --- The white is Crank POSITIVE and the Black is Crank NEGATIVE. So the White would go to Pin 2 and the Black to Pin 4...

Is this correct?

Yes.

note: I'm assuming DIYautotune's color coded wires correspond to the diagram in the MS3 hardware manual (link above)
 
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Well I got some contradicting information from Nathan (whom I strongly believe knows his ****) He states that the CKP- (the black wire) does not get used in this situation. It is for a VR sensor, not a Optical/Hall style like our DSM's in this case.

So the white CKP+ goes to Pin 2 on the CAS and the black CKP- gets left alone.
 
Well I got some contradicting information from Nathan (whom I strongly believe knows his ****) He states that the CKP- (the black wire) does not get used in this situation. It is for a VR sensor, not a Optical/Hall style like our DSM's in this case.

So the white CKP+ goes to Pin 2 on the CAS and the black CKP- gets left alone.

Two people with running cars that say not to use the Black wire is good enough for me.
 
Looking at the manual, and reading post 4, it looks like you need a pull up resistor. Read that post.
 
Ok so bare with me fellas --- I am trying :) if this isnt the place to discuss this let me know and I can ask a mod to move this.

IMAG0211_zpsd502875a.jpg
 
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Basically just make a "bridge" from the 12v feed to the CKP+ and CMP+ wires. This creates an alternating positive and negative signal from those two wires going INTO the ECU.

I can put these resistors near the plug for the CAS correct?
 
Check my log?

Just got mine hooked up on the bench turning by hand, still new to the composite logger in tunerstudio. Would someone mind checking mine? This is with the Yoshifab hi-res disc

Log taken with TunerStudio MS v2.0.8
 

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That is correct. A 1k resistor is needed between the 12v power wire, and the signal (white) wire.

Yo Berg,
So resistor between 12v and the crank signal wire? That could be my problem...

I didn't see anything in post #4 about a resistor, am I missing something here?

I'm running MS3x using MS1 V3.0, with the MS3 card and ms3x card.
 
The resistor inline between switched 12v and the signal wires are to pull up the voltage to 12v while there is no switching going on. So it effectively makes it a 12v square wave. That's pretty much it. Jus put that 1k inline and rock out.
 
okay, so riddle me this; i ran the tooth logger and the composite logger, and have both cam and crank signals looking good, I checked with timing light and have 10deg timing at the crank pulley and 10deg in MS, also verified firing order of the coils which was good. However, it just won't start up. it pops and spits and shoots flames out the exhaust (fender pipe), but sounds like the timing is just completely off.
"frustrated"

Here is a pic of my ignition settings, am I missing anything here?



The resistor inline between switched 12v and the signal wires are to pull up the voltage to 12v while there is no switching going on. So it effectively makes it a 12v square wave. That's pretty much it. Jus put that 1k inline and rock out.
 
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The resistor inline between switched 12v and the signal wires are to pull up the voltage to 12v while there is no switching going on. So it effectively makes it a 12v square wave. That's pretty much it. Jus put that 1k inline and rock out.

When you say signal wires, do you mean putting a 1k resistor between power and each of the signal wires? as in 2 resistors, one for each signal?
 
i would install a resister per line from 12v keyed source. i dont know all the ins and out of the trigger setup, but would try rising edge on the cam. Also, i see you have 6ms cranking dwell and 28* cranking timing, thats alot.
 
I tried calling.. Lol. Try falling edge on main trigger and rising on cam. Also, use less cranking timing.
 
Brett, Thanks for the call man. It is pretty rad to make a post on TB and then have a member give me a call to try to help out. I appreciate you guys.

Nathan: You are right, a bit much dwell for sure. At 5am Friday morning I was open to trying all sorts of things to get the thing to light off. I believe these coils prefer 3ms dwell, and I normally run 14-16* of cranking timing.

Talking with Brett, I am going to try switching the main and cam triggers around ie falling edge to rising edge, and vice versa.

I'll keep you updated as soon as I'm off work here, I'll plug into the car and see what happens...
 
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