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Transmission slips (doesn't move) when hot.

^^ i meant that's what i think is wrong with the trans on the car i'm working with.

either way i'm going to pull a trans this weekend. i'm crossing my fingers that there will be one there.

i can only use: 2000 s70/v70 n/a and 2001 s60/v70 n/a or turbo as long as it's not geartronic like the t5.
 
not yet but i went to the junkyards this weekend.

apparently, the transmission i need has to come from a 2000 s70/v70 non-turbo, the only year that's a direct fit. i can use a 2001 s60/v70 transmission as long as it doesn't have geartronic but that involves changing the wiring harness for the valve body which is something i'm willing to do but prefer not to.

at the first junkyard i found a 2000 s70 n/a but it had 290k miles and the car was not wrecked, it also appeared to have water damage. i couldn't find anything else there and i didn't want that one. went to another junkyard about 30 minutes away and found zero cars with the transmission i need.

i had time to go to only one more yard and it was a toss-up between the one in the middle of the baltimore ghetto and another out in the boonies but generally has more stuff.

decided to go to the one out in the boonies and found one 2000 v70 n/a there. it was smashed up good and even though it had high miles i was happy that at least it was smashed. i pulled that trans and brought it home for $100.

i'm going to swap that in this coming weekend and i'll find out what screwed up in the first replacement trans.
 
dunno where your home 20 is in relation to DUMFRIES but here's the LKQ info I use
to chase parts for the shop:
LKQ Green Leaf VA
17445 Old Stagecoach ...
Dumfries, VA 22026
800-858-7547

they can jump on THEIR "net" and check for you...
I have a couple of "local yards" here near Chapel Hill that
will look for me as well...
hope this works out for ya...I *know* how frustrating it can be to have to
"go back and do it again"....:-(
 
that's much closer but those junkyards want at least $800 for a used transmission. the reason we drove over an hour from home to visit the maryland junkyards is that they charge $90 + $10 core for a transmission (including tq converter). it's worth it for the savings, there's no guarantees but i enjoy finding what i need myself.

Step 1: Unbolt drivetrain to fall out of vehicle, pull into working area.
IMAG1028.jpg


Step 2: Unbolt and remove transmission.
IMAG1030.jpg


Step 3: Wash hands at nearby sink provided by Honda.
IMAG1031.jpg
 
500dollar744ti said:
that's much closer but those junkyards want at least $800 for a used transmission. the reason we drove over an hour from home to visit the maryland junkyards is that they charge $90 + $10 core for a transmission (including tq converter). it's worth it for the savings, there's no guarantees but i enjoy finding what i need myself.

Step 1: Unbolt drivetrain to fall out of vehicle, pull into working area.

Step 2: Unbolt and remove transmission.

Step 3: Wash hands at nearby sink provided by Honda.
IMAG1031.jpg
Click to expand...

*SHIRTSLEEVE weather!! WAHOO!!
is that one of the "hen's treeth" squirter blocks w/the big rods dying
at your feet?...just kiddin'....:rofl:
looks like a good day was had!
 
My transmission started doing the same thing today as described in the title of this post. The car started thumping/pulling back on the way home, then flew out of gear and wouldn't return. If I sit for 5 minutes, I can drive for 5 minutes.
I've read this thread several time and I'm not sure if anyone came up with a final answer for the post title...
With new fluid, the heating up and losing gear would be what exactly? Apperently not the torque convertor, since that is a good/ruined type of fail.... if it fails your cold car won't be moving either. So it is clearly something with the transmission itself.

A perhaps relevant difference in my setup, the previous owner replaced a broken section of tranny line with rubber hose, and it is right at an elbow. THis line could very easily be kinking, which could be relevant to my problem? I'm not sure, but I feel as though that could make sense. However, I find it odd this fail would come so suddenly when the car was fine being driven for 22 hours around town all weekend. Perhaps something caused the line to shift today. The roads are in terrible (pavement-wise) condition here.
 
^^^ You either need to take the transmission apart and rebuild it, or replace it.

I wanted to fix the trans in this car but it would be more expensive than just going to the junkyard and getting one.

I'm going to install the $90 transmission this Friday. It's the quickest and cheapest way to get the car back on the road.
 
Ahh. Should I get the torque converter too from the yard? If they come separate that is. I'll probably have someone put the tranny in for me.
 
I would get the trans and torque converter together. Since the aw71 bolts right up, you might do well to get one from a turbo car so you have a stronger transmission.
 
500dollar744ti said:
I would get the trans and torque converter together. Since the aw71 bolts right up, you might do well to get one from a turbo car so you have a stronger transmission.
Click to expand...


Even better would be an AW-71L. Just as strong as the AW-71 with lock up function to boot. The AW-71L comes in 1993-1995 NA 940s.
 
Interesting. So an AW71L is also in non-turbo 940s, that's what you're saying right? Non turbos are far more common up here. I'd have better luck looking for that.
 
I found a 1989 AW71, with crank sensor notch? That sound like the proper fit? I assume if it's an LH2.4 car then the tranny would have the crank sensor notch? I can get one shipped to me for under $300 with a 6 month warranty. That doesn't sound too bad, compared to the $1500 total warranty-less expense for my lil stick shift Ford 4 years ago.
 
1989 turbo should be aw71 but it's lh2.2 so the crank sensor notch shouldn't be there, you can pop it out easily but i would double check that it's an aw71, are you sure it's not a 1990 car that has a build date in late 1989?
 
Ahh! You are correct, it is a 1990 car, good thing to take note of. So, 1990 and up is good then. Looks like I have a plan, thanks bud.
 
500dollar744ti said:
^^^ You either need to take the transmission apart and rebuild it, or replace it.

I wanted to fix the trans in this car but it would be more expensive than just going to the junkyard and getting one.

I'm going to install the $90 transmission this Friday. It's the quickest and cheapest way to get the car back on the road.
Click to expand...

did it work out??...those of us on the sidelines wanna know! :oogle:
 
it worked out, but not without issue. i put the transmission in and it was banging into reverse and slipping between 3rd and 4th gear. not as bad as the one originally in the car and better than the second one because it didn't stop working after 15 minutes.

it was still unacceptable. i know for sure the transmission that worked for 15 mins and then slipped was shifting beautifully before it went neutral. i had the two old transmissions laying on the floor and i tried a last ditch effort that actually worked.

i swapped the valve body from the trans that would slip after 15 minutes into the one i just installed and it worked perfectly after that.

i was able to cobble together one good trans out of the 3 and my friend's wife is back on the road taking the kid around and doing mom stuff. she told me it's driving great the other day.

in hindsight, the best option would have been to swap the valve body from the first replacement transmission into the original transmission. either way, it's all good now and i'm happy to have it taken care of.

i'm very happy that swapping valve body worked because that's a relatively easy in-car job that took me about an hour and i was still able to have the car done on time.

all the effort is sometimes what it takes to save a thousand dollars, i still think it's worth the trouble and i would have swapped another transmission if i had to.
 
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