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Turbo info 1982 b21ft

rdr96

rdr96

Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2008
Location
GA
I am looking to replace the turbo on my 1982 b21ft.
I am not sure what turbo I have, I cannot find any identification markers.
It all looks pretty stock.

On another note, I am collecting parts to replace the engine with a b230 + 16V + turbo.
I have an engine and 16V head, if I am going to replace the turbo on my b21ft, Iam looking for
one I can possibly use on the other engine built.

In addition to that I am probably going to need to replace the exhaust too!

Any suggestions are appreciated.
 
Your original stock turbo is a T3 that is oil cooled only. Is your turbo liquid cooled as well as oil? Then it's a replacement turbo. In any case it's a very common turbo and will work on a larger flowing engine. You could consider going with a T3/T04 upgrade which will give you more top end power and will support a 16v engine well.
 
dl242gt said:
Your original stock turbo is a T3 that is oil cooled only. Is your turbo liquid cooled as well as oil? Then it's a replacement turbo. In any case it's a very common turbo and will work on a larger flowing engine. You could consider going with a T3/T04 upgrade which will give you more top end power and will support a 16v engine well.
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Thanks! I had a t04e-50-trim listed in my parts overview. I am far from knowledgeable on turbos. I'll dig into this turbo more to see if it is an easy drop in replacement. And yes, the current one is only oil cooled.
 
I'll have to pull the trigger on buying a turbo and new exhaust in January. I am thinking about combining the t04e-50-trim with a Simons Sportsystem (for 240 turbo 81- 2.5" system). Anyone know if this will be a direct bolt-on replacement?
 
rdr96 said:
I'll have to pull the trigger on buying a turbo and new exhaust in January. I am thinking about combining the t04e-50-trim with a Simons Sportsystem (for 240 turbo 81- 2.5" system). Anyone know if this will be a direct bolt-on replacement?
Click to expand...
You have to make sure the new turbo is using a three bolt cone type flange like the original setup to match up to the exhaust downpipe. I use the Simons cat back systems for my n/a cars and like them very much. Well made and have a decent service life.
 
Didn't see any mention of, but assuming you're going water cooled. No brainer, unless you like replacing turbos/$$$. Good luck with your project!
 
tbrcktch said:
Didn't see any mention of, but assuming you're going water cooled. No brainer, unless you like replacing turbos/$$$. Good luck with your project!
Click to expand...
Honestly, I have been looking at just replacing what I have at the moment. It's a daily driver that I need to keep working. At least until the summer. However, I'm open to suggestion that make sense for to check into.
 
I hear you. Is your current turbo bad? I was just looking at your original post, about B230F +, 16 valve head, etc., and that you're looking at something that would be good with future upgrades. An oil cooled only, turbo, just doesn't last. Over heats, wipes out the bearing/seizes, blows smoke, no power. It's not about the performance, it's the poor reliability. I would run an oil cooled turbo, if I needed one, had it laying around, or it was free/dirt cheap. They run fine, but you never know when that day will come when you start it up, and it is blowing so much smoke you can't see anything in your rear view mirror. You have to keep up with your oil changes religiously, let the engine get warmed up before you go into boost, and critically, before you are near your destination, you keep it out of boost, let the oil/turbo temps come down, let it idle some, before you shut it down. Often, the turbo fails during/at shut down. It simply seizes, and you won't even know it, until you start it up the next time you try to go somewhere! Most of them have been replaced with the water cooled version, long ago (unless it's in a car that has been sitting idle for years). Doesn't take much time/$$ to change up to water cooled. A couple of pipes, hoses, banjo bolts, copper seals. Not trying to change your mind, just sharing some history. Let's just say, I got very good at replacing turbo's, in the early/mid 80's, before most of them were replaced with upgraded water cooled units. Good luck, and have fun on your journey!
 
tbrcktch said:
I hear you. Is your current turbo bad? I was just looking at your original post, about B230F +, 16 valve head, etc., and that you're looking at something that would be good with future upgrades. An oil cooled only, turbo, just doesn't last. Over heats, wipes out the bearing/seizes, blows smoke, no power. It's not about the performance, it's the poor reliability. I would run an oil cooled turbo, if I needed one, had it laying around, or it was free/dirt cheap. They run fine, but you never know when that day will come when you start it up, and it is blowing so much smoke you can't see anything in your rear view mirror. You have to keep up with your oil changes religiously, let the engine get warmed up before you go into boost, and critically, before you are near your destination, you keep it out of boost, let the oil/turbo temps come down, let it idle some, before you shut it down. Often, the turbo fails during/at shut down. It simply seizes, and you won't even know it, until you start it up the next time you try to go somewhere! Most of them have been replaced with the water cooled version, long ago (unless it's in a car that has been sitting idle for years). Doesn't take much time/$$ to change up to water cooled. A couple of pipes, hoses, banjo bolts, copper seals. Not trying to change your mind, just sharing some history. Let's just say, I got very good at replacing turbo's, in the early/mid 80's, before most of them were replaced with upgraded water cooled units. Good luck, and have fun on your journey!
Click to expand...
Thanks for the feedback!

I'm not too worried about the water cooling itself. It's the will it fit easily with respect to the exhaust and exhaust manifold? The turbo part is really something I'm just starting with. I don't have smoke or significant oil usage for that matter, but the inlet turbine shaft has a lot of play. And I never see any boost on my gauge in the car. Any suggestions how to go about choosing a selection of turbos that will fit either oil and/or oil/water cooled?
 
Ok, oil cooled or water cooled, same turbo, basically, just uses center cartridge with water passages. Fitment is exactly the same, just additionally has 2) pipes on housing, hoses. Is the turbo even working, or is just the gauge not working? Do you feel any boost, or hear the turbo spooling up, or down? Don't know about the turbo fitment for the 16V head, different exhaust manifold, header pipe. There are other people on forum with experience with that. If your turbo isn't currently working, just put the cheapest working unit on there for now. then put something good on that 16V setup, when you've got that ready. Good luck
 
Gotta think having the additional water cooling will likely prolong the turbo life, esp. if you like hooning your 'brick.

Same thinking applies to oil coolers for red blocks: should increase longevity.
 
I'll be picking up the new exhaust this week and I have to put back in my whole A/C system over Christmas.

I probably have to figure out why I'm not building any boost at all. Boost gauge in my dash never seems to be getting above 0 psi.
Maybe I have to start testing the KJet system too. My idle rpm is fluctuating around 950 rpm and fuel economy is terrible at the moment.
So I'll be searching the forum for KJet maintenance guidance etc.

For now I'll see if I can find an oil/water cooled turbo. Anyone have suggestions for one that matches the t04e-50 with both oil/water cooling?
 
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Fuel economy and a kjet turbo don't mix well. I gave up and just feed it when needed which is often. I just got anther Volvo as a daily because the fuel economy is so bad. My friend has an 88 LH2.2 manual 740 turbo and that gets very good mileage.

A small fluctuation in the idle as the system samples the o2 sensor is normal with these systems. Like say 20-30 rpm up and down when warmed up in closed loop operation.

For boost issues I would start by inspecting all the air handling hose couplings. Inspect the intercooler for leaks. Then move to the wastegate actuator. Make sure it's bolted down and is still attached to the swing arm. Make sure the swing arm or swing valve can move freely. You can also use a coolant system pressure pump to pressurize the actuator and test the movement.
 
I don't have an intercooler. I'll go over all the hose couplings etc. I have a coolant system pressure tester, just have to figure out a way to attach a hose barb to attach to the lines in the car.
 
Here are a couple great classic threads on turbos:

The excessive TD04 turbo guide ??

For a while now i have researched most of the details of the TD04 turbo family, specifically those that are relevant to redblock usage. I hope this could function as an end all be all guide for TD04 related info. Compressor type: Let's start with the most common question, how many T's or G's do...
turbobricks.com turbobricks.com

How to setup a 15g/16t/18t/19t for RWD

i know a smart man would not do this as it MIGHT hurt my selling of turbo business BUT i'm more about helping people so here goes ok so first you get the turbo unbolt everything, and take it apart remove the guide pins ... haha and clean it (i have pics of this but i need to find them so i'll...
www.turbobricks.com www.turbobricks.com

TD04HL-15G Turbo Rebuild Write up. - Volvo Forums - Volvo Enthusiasts Forum

Volvo 850 - TD04HL-15G Turbo Rebuild Write up. - Well as most of you know not to long ago I rebuilt my 15G due to a NASTY Internal Oil leak. The Rebuild is fairly simple, it is just time consuming and requires your undivided attention. Keep in mind this process will work on 13G, 15G, 16T, 18T...
volvoforums.com

Here's a picture of a non-intercooled B21FT with the replacement watercooled T3 turbo, and the jumbo CAT on the downpipe. I'd guess that most of the factory oil-cooled turbos were replaced early in the car's life by the dealer with the watercooled version due to failure.
1982 B21FT Blake's.jpg

Log Mainfold and Garrett2.jpg

Note: the Volvo Garrett T3 turbos do not include an integrated CBV. If you change from K-Jet, you'll need to add a CBV, or change to a more modern turbo (aka TD04HL) with an integrated CBV.

DET17 has a watercooled T3 forsale here: https://www.turbobricks.com/index.p...rground-garage-sale-v2-0.363649/#post-6250379
 
Thanks for the info and links. I will go through them shortly.
I did go over the intake hoses from the turbo to the intake manifold. Those all are tight and good.

The waste gate actuator, should you be able to move the connecting rod by hand or does it require a lot of force.
 
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