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Volvo 240 weird no start issue

240 24 0

240 24 0

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Nov 8, 2022
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commiefornia
1992 Volvo 244 that starts weird sometimes. If I shut off the car after driving it and getting it up to temperature and then try to start it immediately afterwards (within 1 minute) it will occasionally not start. When this happens, I have to wait at least 20 minutes before it will start again. This is really odd to me because it seems like it’s flooding like a carbureted car but this is fuel injected. It also idles rough but so long as it idles I don’t need to fix immediately. Lastly the check engine light is on and I think it’s for the egr valve but I don’t imagine that effects it.
 
Could be as simple as the gap is opened up on worn out spark plugs making it hard to start when it's hot. A weak spark will also flood easily and make you wait 20 minutes while the liquid gas evaporates. How old are the plug wires, cap and rotor? An air filter change always helps these cars run optimally.
 
dl242gt said:
Could be....
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TLC is needed for used vehicles....starting with flow testing injectors, replacing ECU's temp sensor, filters, replacing or inspecting sparks/wires/cap/rotor, thermostat, belts, hoses, bearings, etc. Once I buy an used vehicle, it generally sits until I have replaced several hundred dollars of parts. I have a mental checklist for doing this, but once done, few if any issues for several years.

OP indicates it idles rough, but is not motivated to fix it, or discover what the issue is. No such thing as a free lunch....
 
dl242gt said:
Could be as simple as the gap is opened up on worn out spark plugs making it hard to start when it's hot. A weak spark will also flood easily and make you wait 20 minutes while the liquid gas evaporates. How old are the plug wires, cap and rotor? An air filter change always helps these cars run optimally.
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Some basic maintenance would be a great start.

My 740 was doing the same, with the occasional stalling. Stopping to get gas was iffy, might restart, might get to play Keno for a while. Hot restart issues can be a couple things. Testing the resistance on the coolant temp sensor located under the intake between cylinders 3 and 4 would be a great start. Note that there are 2 sensors. The easiest one to get to is for the gauge. The one in question uses a square plug that looks like the plugs on the injectors. You can check the resistance values compared to engine temp too see if its faulty.
 
84B23F said:
OP indicates it idles rough, but is not motivated to fix it, or discover what the issue is. No such thing as a free lunch....
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I want to fix the idle but it’s better to actually be able to start it imo. Hopefully this kills two birds with one stone.
 
The plugs, wires, cap and rotor all look satisfactory but whatever crackhead owned the car previously didn’t do hardly any maintenance. I’ll probably go ahead and replace those soon regardless of the problem.

What should the resistance be for the sensor at operating temperature and cold?
 
temp sensor 2.4.PNG

Easiest way to test it is at the plug for the EZK and ECU. You will need to test both and compare the temp to the ohms on the graph above. If it does test bad, replacement can be done without pulling the intake manifold. Ive done it by pulling the throttle body off but that was on a car without EGR. That might be in the way. Also, you can test the codes and if I recall a 1-2-3 is the CTS code. Sometimes you do get lucky and its just corrosion on the plug at the sensor.
 
240 24 0 said:
I want to fix.....1992 Volvo 244
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1993-240s/940s have a Schrader valve port on the fuel rail for finding out rail pressure; I don't know if 92s got that.

Quick/Dirty - Remove all sparks, turn ignition key to on so fuel pumps energize, turn off, wait 10 seconds, and repeat once more. Smell fuel coming out of a cylinder? Best to do this outside.

Injectors - Any older gasoline based vehicle (GM, Ford, BMW, etc.,) needs to have those O-rings renewed, especially in colder climates. I go one step further in warmer weather, and remove the intake manifold, renew flametrap's hose/etc, install a new ECT, examine/clean throttle body, clean/flow test injectors, and inspect for whatever might need attention. PITA... Might be cheaper to buy new or cleaned (used) injectors, but I prefer to know they have been flow tested so they are in balance.

Quick/Dirty - Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner - One treatment might clean up dirty injectors.
 
240 24 0 said:
refresh it all huh?
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OEM vehicles tend to work flawlessly for years....when older vehicles are refreshed, owners have few if any issues on those items refreshed for years. Is there a relationship here?

On driveline & suspension parts (not tires), I figure an older vehicle may need around $500.00 to $1k worth of parts when bought. YMMV...and your vehicle's reliability is your business. Some people drive 'daily drivers' and others 'daily beaters,' daily drivers are good for trips, and daily beaters are for those just waiting for the next breakdown.

Dale Earnhardt said - As a GM Goodwrench Service Plus dealer, I understand how good service makes a difference to our customers.
 
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Isn't this a classic symptom of a failing crankshaft position sensor? Check to make sure that wire's not baked, and look into a replacement.
 
leecatd8209 said:
Isn't this a classic symptom of a failing crankshaft position sensor? Check to make sure that wire's not baked, and look into a replacement.
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Yes, it is. If the sensor wire still has the yellow stripe on it. That means it's original and should be changed asap. A white marker is the updated sensor.
 
240 24 0 said:
1992 Volvo 244 that starts weird sometimes. If I shut off the car after driving it and getting it up to temperature and then try to start it immediately afterwards (within 1 minute) it will occasionally not start. When this happens, I have to wait at least 20 minutes before it will start again. This is really odd to me because it seems like it’s flooding like a carbureted car but this is fuel injected. It also idles rough but so long as it idles I don’t need to fix immediately. Lastly the check engine light is on and I think it’s for the egr valve but I don’t imagine that effects it.
Click to expand...
When my power stage was going bad, it would cause car to intermittently stall after 15-20 min of use, and it wouldn't start for about 20 minutes after it stalled. A fuel pressure issue can cause very similar issues.
 
Have you checked the fuel pressure regulator for leakage. Might have a leaking diaphragm. Pull vacuum hose off the regulator to see if there's fuel in the hose. Check after you've started it / after you've run it / and when it won't restart (hot). This can also give you driveability issues, including a rough idle. Also, as was mentioned above (2 old for this), a leaking fuel pump check valve will definitely cause this issue. Good luck!
 
tbrcktch said:
...a leaking fuel pump check valve will definitely cause this issue. Good luck!
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With LH 2.4, turning key to on position for say 2 seconds, and then key to start will confirm/eliminate this hypothesis.

Bring out the parts cannon, and renew relevant parts.
 
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