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VX cam for grunt on NA motor

If I was looking for a better than stock camshaft for an automatic, non-turbo car in daily driving below 4000rpm, it'd be in this order: T, A, B, VX3, VX(advanced!)... Set the valve clearances pretty tight on the T cam so it isn't a complete slouch up top. In my automatic '87 244 daily Beige Bomber the T cam took .3 seconds off my 1/4 mile time compared to an equally setup M cam(tight valves, advanced ignition timing, retarded cam timing, etc.). 17.5 vs 17.8, from what I remember. The A or B will be quicker, but the VX straight up feels like a pig compared to the T cam in the setting that I had it. The VX advanced a few degrees feels much better, but I'm not sure it'd get the car down the 1/4 mile faster with the autotragic. I haven't tested yet.
Can you go into more detail about the way you ordered these? Where does the K cam or H cam come in in an automatic B230 application in your opinion?

"Wow, I miss the T cam...! I could ride a wave of torque and never take it over 3k but still out accelerate normal traffic by a good margin. Now, it needs much more throttle and another 1000rpm to feel like it's moving like that. The pull up top with the cam advanced 4 degrees is hardly any fun either. I'll set it at 2 and probably leave it there. Not quite what I expected, but hey, look at those lobe areas! Maybe it IS to be expected. Dynamic compression=good. I'll be surprised if it's more than 3 tenths faster at the drags. "

I haven't made it back to the drags with the VX cam installed, but I don't expect much. Around town the T cam was much better than the VX, in my opinion. Especially below 3000rpm.

When you say now, you mean the VX cam? Have you run a K or B or H or A personally? Or are you judging by the cam specs?
The K and H cam would be towards the end of that list, as they are more aggressive. My ordering above is basically the camshafts with the most low end grunt/torque are at the beginning of the list and the powerband generally moves up the RPM range as you go towards the end of the list.

My comments thus far have been in relation to a stock motor. If you pull the cylinder head to shave it and/or install a thinner head gasket, my advice would change because you will be able to maintain decent dynamic compression with a larger duration camshaft due to the higher static compression ratio.

My '87 Beige Bomber with LH2.2 and an automatic will one day get the H cam after I shave the head and put a thinner headgasket on it. That will be a great DD setup with good power across the whole powerband, when I get around to it.

I have run an A, B, D, VX, V, K, H, Enem K13, IPD Turbo, Enem V15, M, and T cam from what I can remember. I have lots of dyno plots with various different cams and states of setup here: http://ovtuners.org/gallery2/v/members/klr142_001/MY244/dynocharts/
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If you want the best mileage, get an L or M cam. They provide the least power, but great gas mileage.
The T cam will produce more power and better gas mileage, actually. It has less duration and as such, raises the dynamic compression ratio of the car.