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240 warm up regulator for an 83 240 Turbo. Dont know the correct part number but Im p

vcolper

vcolper

New member
Joined
May 4, 2008
Location
North Port, FL
warm up regulator for an 83 240 Turbo.
Dont know the correct part number but Im pretty sure the one in my car is incorrect, 0438140-014
 
Yes, you have the incorrect part. The proper one for your car can either end with an 079 or a 123. The 123 version has a longer warmup time otherwise they are both the same and work on 81-83 turbos.
 
Ok Ive got the "correct" WUR, still missing the delay valve.
I have some questions.
Is the delay valve a regular check valve?
Where does the line circled in red connect to?
The option circled in green..... what is that? Another market?
See link below for image

Thanks



https://ibb.co/8YNhbLQ
 
Yes, the delay valve is a regular check valve like the type used with carburators. Usually marked with flow arrows or writing. One side is a different color to help you install it in the correct direction. Maybe hiperfauto has a diagram. The delay valve setup is used 81-83. Then the 84-85 setup is with #21 in the diagram. The other vacuum hose setup is for a B21ET (155hp!) which we didn't get.

There is also supposed to be a vacuum diagram in the engine compartment. Usually on the front slam panel.
 
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The vacuum diagram doesn't show the WUR hose routing in detail. Here's a pic from the greenbook.

CPR.jpg


The hose circled in red goes to the intake manifold.
 
Yes to the intake manifold,but where. Id have to "T" it in place.
Should it go where the Cranckcase ventilation system line or maybe the distributor advance vacuum line?

Thanks
 
If you look carefully at the intake manifold on the side where the cold start valve is. Look under the cold start valve and you will see a vacuum port on the manifold plenum. Connect the hose from the thermo valve to that port by itself.
 
OK, I had the Distributor and Charcoal canister connected there.
I just connected as you said.

My original problem still remains,
To get the engine to stay running and accelerate I have to enrichen the mixture stupidly. Idles ruff and puffs a lot of black smoke
Once i start leaning it, idle will smooth out, then if I accelerate it, it boggs down, like needing fuel. If i let go suddenly of the throttle it'll shut off sometimes

When I purchased the car the PO had replaced the idle air control valve with a PVC ball valve and had the Mixture very rich....Thats why I replaced the IAC valve and adjusted the mixture, adjusted the throttle valve.
After that the car wouldnt accelerate... idle nice though.
Then I went looking for leaks.... Found leaks all over, turbo inlet hose had a slit half way around, intake gasket, injector seals/o rings, vacuum hoses all rotten, in tank pump not running
All was replaced including both (new) fuel pumps, new Idle air control valve and I just installed a correct (used)WUR that I purchased here
Any suggestions?
 
Ok well the distributor is T into the small charcoal canistor hose correctly. But after they T together the hose goes to the small port on the back of the throttle body. Right next to the larger port for the charcoal canistor large hose. Now you will probably accelerate a bit better. The only other vacuum port is the one on the number four intake runner which goes to the enrichment valve on the fire wall and is also T off to go inside the car to the boost gauge and overpressure switch.

You'll need a dwell or duty cycle gauge to check the lambda system. Check that the boost enrichment is working. Connect a coolant test pump up to the switch and see that the connections are shorted when it hits about 2.9psi. You can use a test light on the positive battery terminal and connect the other side to the wire that goes inside the car. You do this without the engine running.Make sure you hear the frequency valve. If you don't check the lambda relay on the left inner fender. It's the small gray square one. it is powered up by the fuel pump relay. Use a test light to make sure that part of the fuel pump relay circuit turns on. I think it's terminal 87b on the fuel pump relay. Without the boost enrichment there is not enough fuel in boost so the engine will bog. You can't compensate for that with a super rich mixture adjustment like the PO did.

You on the right path. A turbo needs a lot more care and parts replacement when refurbishing the car. You can pick up a Bentley manual for the turbos which has a lot of great information on these cars. There was green books and a Bentley for sale in 15A for sale thread.
 
Btw, I bought my turbo in 95 and it needed much of the same parts replaced back then. The main problem besides all that other stuff you mentioned was the control pressure regulator was bad. It had clogged up and leaned out the mixture under all driving situations.
 
I didn't see anything with banjo fittings in the tester kits. You can reuse the fittings from bad lines or a place like belmetric may have something. If you reuse banjo fittings then you don't need adapters. They will bolt on with the same bolt as the fuel line. So you just need new sealing washers for when you remove and replace the lines.
There are some good writeups for making your own tester setup. I bought one from IPD and that setup uses banjo fittings on the ends that seal into the hose with clamps.
 
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