White 940 2.5TDI wagon

[v8volvo]

Among other things, the car finally became a TDI wagon. It was really a mood roller coaster at times... Just finished uploading all the pictures to flickr, here is a little teaser of the oncoming detailed (build) photo tsunami.

Yes! Congrats. I thought of this build the other day and wondered if you had gone ahead with it. Looking forward to seeing all the details

 

[petiww]

Yes! Congrats. I thought of this build the other day and wondered if you had gone ahead with it. Looking forward to seeing all the details

Hah, thanks! Its definitely a good thing that it came together well, and if i can tease you even more, it does around 6,5L/100km (36 us mpg) fuel consumption on longer trips, with a pretty heavy foot. These days I'm daily driving it, and its solidly around 7,5L/100km (31 mpg), on 20+20km.

 

[petiww]

Okay, part one, this will be just maintenance, as it had to show up for inspection back in '21 november. Let the pictures talk:
Bad sway endlink bolt and sleeve...
20210914_224406 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Of course i had to cut one coil upfront, but i did not like how the spring seated itself:
20211116_233232 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20211116_235237 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

New bushings where necessary, new bumpstops with new dust shields on the shocks:
20211118_001720 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20211118_001754 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Rear section needed some more attention, as the brakes were also not so great. When we went on a trip with David the last year, the handbrake actually got kinda stuck...
This is what i found:
20211115_191956 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20210914_225049 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Rotors were rusty and had shoulders so it got some shiny coated Ate discs. This is how i left it:
20211115_224101 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20211118_001654 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20211116_181002 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Cleaned all the surfaces, new shoes, pads, rotors, parking brake mount and cable... And the little white cable guides were flipped to provide a new healthy surface.
The handbrake became really great, on a slightly wet asphalt it can lock up the tires. Its still not as powerful as the dual cable system on the 240s... Those can lock up my rear tires fairly easy even on dry asphalt.
Oh and the speedo sensor was rewired as the wiring was gone.

One coil minus gave this look, just a tiny rake, which really grown on me, as well as the 940 frontend:
20211117_235240 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

 

[petiww]

Part two, still maintenance:
Taillights were gross, so i sourced some better ones, refurbrished, polished and installed them:
20211126_215623 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

The right one is an used unit and the reverse lens fell out. I took the opportunity and repainted the surface and glued the lens back, sealed the black dividers too.
20211126_203452 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20211126_210023 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Had to do something with the broken tailgate wiring, as i temporarily just fixed the central locking, but had no plate lights or rear wiper, nor heated windshield...
20211126_153450 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20211127_210036 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20211128_163504 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

This turned out to be 3 afternoons of work. Car was missing this little wiring guide/hinge, so the wiring was all messed up. Ended up flipping the stock bandaged cable, so its healthy and intact where the wiring needs to be flexible near the tailgate hinge. This all greeted me with this look:
20211128_192830 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Of course it would be too nice if it was good on first try. I had some problems when pressing the brake pedal. The brake lights drew a lot of juice, and they werent really bright at all...
After some time and investigation, it turned out that i flipped two wires, and besides trying to light up two 21W bulbs, it tried to light up my wiper motors coil, as the third brake lamp wire got connected to the motor...
It was a real easy fix once i realised what i messed up.

Airbagged steering wheel had multiple degrees of freedom, and it annoyed me so much that I swapped in a good 740 one, along with the horn contact unit:
20211118_001355 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Shift knob was wiggling around, so i went on and installed a new shift knob, cleaned all the grime, rewired the OD switch:
20211118_001440 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Also it got a passenger side, almost matching colour seat for the drivers seat. The car actually became really pleasant and relaxing to drive. It passed inspections easily too!

 

[petiww]

I used the car a few times during the winter, but I was mainly avoiding salted roads and snow, I just used the little Corsa instead.
Got a broken and cracked waterfall grille which was already painted black in the middle, and with a few correctly placed zipties, it was already on the car. Damn this really helped me start loving this frontend!
20220325_162452 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Sourced a Jurbodiesel badge too, for some 80s revolutionary feeling.
20220327_191923 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Then in the spring, after a slight change in my personal life i got back my motivation to finish the TDI swap. Also, the welder at my job who welded my oil pan died in February, I thought it would be an honor for him if I didn't let his work go to waste.

So the project was back on the track, started to source some TDI bits. First package was from an S60, aux console, ps pump, ac comp, alternator, DMF with clutch, 140hp injectors... I still had the 115hp AAT engine, but i decided to convert the electric fuel pump to mechanical. And for that, i thought if i spend so much money on it, I'd like to set it at the higher factory power.

Fully rebuilt the alternator, because it was fully covered in oily soot and wired the tach signal W out:
20220412_175231 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220412_202151 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Got back the converted fuel pump without the huge cable and spool holder. As this is the piece that connects the pump to the block, and is different between the TDI and the D24 engines, i needed to weld the two together and make it not so visible:
D24:
20220404_212324 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Converted D24 on the TDI pump:
20220413_205447 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220413_205438 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

New spool axle:
20220414_115239 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220414_181043 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

And the almost finished product:
20220413_230032 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

I also needed to install a little spool stop, as the ball end on the throttle lever is not adjustable... No pic of that sorry.

My plan was to completely prepare the engine for installation in the garage so that I could use the car until then. Went for some curvy road fun to Pezinsk? Baba with 12david34:
20220415_180656 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220415_184032 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Poor D24TIC and 25TDS, but they tolerated the abuse

 

[petiww]

Then the fun began.

Dumb me wanted to keep the working M46 in place. The DMF needed a clutch setup that would accept the M46 input shaft. As far as i know 240mm M45-6-7 splined discs do not exist. I sent a M56 PP and disc to a clutch rebuilder company (along with a M46 disc centre), to somehow massage them together. Well, they bored out the M56 splines, and pressed in the machined M46, then welded the ends together.
While this procedure sounds fine in theory, it turned out to be a mess after welding, due to warpage. The damned disc had a pretty solid lateral runout when turned on an input shaft...
20220420_105604 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220420_093014 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
I tried brute force at home. It did not work so at my workplace we machined a chuck to grip on the disc at the bore. With using the longitudinal hand wheel, I finely pressed on the disc at various places to remove any lateral runout. This seemed to work well, but once again i was disappointed that it again had solid lateral runout on an input shaft...
Funky warpage, I'm not surprised when it makes the car shudder during clutch engagement.
To correct this I just sourced a diesel M90 on the last weekend, so it can get an untouched clutch setup.

Some engine mount fab photos:
20220420_230324 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220421_182852 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220421_194853 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220421_230946 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220621_202211 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Kinda similar conception as the right side, made from 5x50 flat bars, its easy to bend then weld and grind them flat. I really did not put too much thought into this, just went with the flow.
The idea to connect the third eye under the aux consoles lower bolt is not the nicest, but it does the job just fine. And what is great? That it works both with the early and the later aux console, as their thickness at that section is the same!

The swap quickly got way closer to implementation than in the previous years. Then a few wild problems appeared:
20220430_170602 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220430_170608 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220430_171549 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220430_173552 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Realised that the Audi TDI engine just dont want to work with the Volvo valve cover. It does not have the casting protrusions for the sealing surfaces, near the injectors.
Also, this particular engine somehow greeted me with a not so nice camshaft wear at the vacuum pump, plus discoloration at the other valve cams.
The previously modded intake manifold turned out to be a mistake aswell, it is interfering with the timing cover (the EGR inlet is flipped too).

To correct these, i bit the bullet and bought a non running, 500tkm half-apart engine from a V70:
20220514_201520 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Flipped another intake manifold, but now only the inlet, and also modified the previous to be completely EGRless:
20220523_204933 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

 

[petiww]

20220515_163202 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

I do like when the car is loaded (with a D5252T), sits about perfect.

So I quickly dug myself into this one. This second engine was already partially disassembled and as the garage is dusty, i wanted to close all openings as quick as i could.
I started with installing the rebuilt injectors, this needed careful cleaning of the injector sealing surfaces and the bores. Of course with the engine on the stand, turned upside down.
Checked and cleaned all the glowplugs and their seats and installed them too. Not that they are needed badly on the TDI engines... I still havent connected anything to them.
20220520_000423 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220520_030005 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Then went to the other side, after some careful cleaning I installed the flipped intake manifold:
20220524_204707 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Installed the Audi exhaust manifold along with its K14 turbo and drain tube. Took my time and fabricated the EGR connecting flex pipe too, to look original. I think its from the D5252T engine as it has a very long flex part. It needed some brute force but it bent to the needed place well. Its blocked now though as there is nothing to actuate it.
20220526_010136 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220526_010154 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Went along with removing the D5252T oil cooler adapter casting, and installed the D24TIC one which is already turned upwards a bit:
20220526_010142 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

This greeted me with this sweet and easy job for the oil feedline.
For the top section, it uses the Audi feedline, for the bottom very small section it uses the D5252T turbo side feedline:
20220526_185439 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220526_185444 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

After some TIG madness and polishing later:
20220526_191159 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220526_193917 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Turned the engine upside down again, continued the oil pickup tube. I had no intact old design metal pickup ends with the fine filter, so i went with the newer design, which has a more coarse filter:
20220601_223217 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220601_223250 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220601_233913 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Then the problems began as these went a bit too well. In the national Audi C4 group, i saw a lot of guys struggling with loosening and breaking the crank main bearing cap bolts in the 5pot 2.5TDIs. Not all of the bolts, but mainly the second and third ones are the ones which let go.

There is no consensus about the culprit, heavy guesswork of the group was focusing on worn harmonic balancer pulleys, worn dual mass flywheels, some guys think it was surely because higher power outputs...
Some guys said its perfectly okay after 400-500tkm in stock engines, and that it just needs to be changed regularly. I was on the other end, that its not at all acceptable for a non moving part to just simply loosen up and eventually break, and that it needs to be replaced regularly. Nobody found correlation between tuned engines and the loosening. Some people had them break while they were just casually cruising at normal speeds.
Bulletproof TDI engine hah?
Bolts are fully threaded M10x80 10.9, flanged hex head bolts.

At this time I still thought going 12.9 is the way to go. Ordered them, went along and found that 2. and 3. cap bolts came loose a bit too easy...
Moved on anyway, changed bolts without removing the caps. Two by two. Oiled the bolts and torqued them. Then something weird happened because at the second cap, the crankshaft seized after torquing. I was not happy...
20220604_231103 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220605_003810 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

The bearing looks perfectly fine for a 500tkm engine, but why does it seize up the crank?
After some time in that fb group, a dude mentioned the same scenario but after a broken bolt. He said they hammered the cap until the crank turned freely, assembled the engine, idled it for a hour, changed oil. They started using it, but without revving over 2500rpm. After 5000km, another oil change. They have been using it since then, without any problems, with some mods, on the limiter, for four years now... I was like, what can I lose with trying it too.

Torqued to 80Nm, then started hammering on the cap. Indeed the crank eventually got free. Hammered a bit more, it became better. Still not perfect, but thought it will make room for itself.
20220605_163437 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Had to to something about the dipstick situation. Checked the angle and position of the bore, and it was the same as the D24. Created this piece of art D24 dipstick calibrator:
284641300_1402494810174065_6020745926237333931_n by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
This way, with using the D5252T dipstick housing and a redblock dipstick, i needed to remove (iirc) 10-15mm from the housing to get it right.

And the final assembled bottom end with a new PTFE rear main seal:
20220606_004213 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

 

[v8volvo]

Great to see all this, great work! I am envious for sure

Pretty handy how you can mix and match so many parts from the compatible engines, the Audi 2.5 and the D5252T and the D24TIC. For such an involved swap you have been able to use a lot of factory parts. I like how nicely the Audi manifold fits with the D24TIC oil filter mount.

Pretty strange story on the main cap bolts, I have never heard of that ever on the 4cyl TDI engines or the 6cyl D24 family so have to imagine that is true that it's a particular 5cyl harmonic vibration kind of issue. Still, it is weird since the bottom ends are so robust overall on these motors. Sounds like you got a good solution to it.

Look forward to seeing the rest of it come together, keep the build info coming.

 

[moise]

great job, i have do same few years ago.

 

[petiww]

Great to see all this, great work! I am envious for sure

Pretty handy how you can mix and match so many parts from the compatible engines, the Audi 2.5 and the D5252T and the D24TIC. For such an involved swap you have been able to use a lot of factory parts. I like how nicely the Audi manifold fits with the D24TIC oil filter mount.

Pretty strange story on the main cap bolts, I have never heard of that ever on the 4cyl TDI engines or the 6cyl D24 family so have to imagine that is true that it's a particular 5cyl harmonic vibration kind of issue. Still, it is weird since the bottom ends are so robust overall on these motors. Sounds like you got a good solution to it.

Look forward to seeing the rest of it come together, keep the build info coming.

Thanks!
Yeah its really great that they did stick with the old designs, and mostly they are really compatible. It helped a lot with keeping it oem looking.
Indeed I think also its related only to 5 cylinder engines and its harmonies, and would be cool if someone would dug deeper into this problem...

great job, i have do same few years ago.

Thanks!
Would be curious to see yours too! What gearbox and diff are you running?
With a 2 series, sometimes i was playing with the idea of installing a 10vt but petrol engine.

Onto the build:
Continued with cleaning the valvetrain area, on the stand, upside down. Removed first and rear camshaft cap, cleaned surfaces and the seals, installed them properly with grease and rtv where needed. Cleaned the water pump mating surfaces and installed a new one.
20220606_223505 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Fabricated the oil-coolant heat exchanger metal tube, which is going behind the timing belt. With that painted and installed, I installed and set the tension of the timing belt.
20220610_013642 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220610_013713 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220610_013704 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Then bumped into a heavy problem with the heavy pulley. I had a ****ty tool to counterhold while applying +180degs after 160nm, and it cracked...
20220610_013627 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220610_014234 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

These values are no joke, i learned. What works at a 10v oldie petrol engine, does not work here.
So i fabbed this monsterous piece and applied the angle way too easily with a heavy 3/4" breaker bar. Of course with a new INA harmonic balancer pulley, straight from China.
20220614_212509 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220614_211409 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Then installed the fuel pump, and tried to install the rear timing belt with the tensioner and idler. At first i wanted to keep the D5252T setup, but quickly realised with the Audi pump holder casting, it wont work without fabricating.
20220615_003834 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Removed the additional rotating masses:
20220615_011311 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Then realised even if it fits there, it has a different offset:
20220615_020817 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

What i learned: Volvo uses a non adjustable pump holder casting along with a different, non adjustable pump. Audi uses an adjustable one. And as im using the Audi holder, I just went with the Audi rear timing setup, with the metal rollers.

 

[petiww]

Then sometime during this period of the assembly, the oilpan got secured on. Only mistake i made that i ordered a gasket for the sheetmetal Audi oil pan. One section is a tiny bit different, but nothing serious what a little rtv can't fix.

Oh, and i forgot to add that a fellow Volvo buddy was refreshing/resealing his D24TIC during all this time. Helped him going through the process. The garage was pretty much a mess:
20220530_200317 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
This D24 jumped back into his car in around 10th of june. He had a ****load of motivation and worked all night, when i got back in the morning it was almost ready for a startup.

Decided that I really want to hear the TDI before putting it to the car. Practically bench testing the various fabrications, the built pump, the pump timing, the hammered crank main cap, the unknown condition 500tkm engine...
Chained it to the little dolly, added a starter motor. Funny thing the early D24 starter is so big, it wont fit on the TDI, even though the placement, the mount and ring gear is the same.
Tried to prime the oil system without fuel pump belt and without glow plugs - no luck, the oil pickup tube is just too long.

Installed the belt and plugs, primed the pump with diesel, cranked it (click for video):
20220617_021523 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
This was i think the 3rd startup, it sounded so promising already. The first ones were smokey a bit until the fuel system bleeded itself.

I was happy that it starts easily, has no weird noises, no weird knocks.
Rolled it outside, added a few more coolant hoses and used garden hose to continously flush the heat away. Ran it for a good few hours, listened for any weirdness but it just ran ok.
Although upon revving up, around 2000rpm, it had some rough time igniting the fuel, and it smoked too. Turned out that the mechanical setup of the pump was way too retarded, and it just did not run right. Adjusted it by feel, until it had almost clear revving up noises and seemingly no smoke

For some truck noises, click on this:
20220619_210122 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

In total it ran for about 5-6 hours, so i called the bench testing a success. This way I finally calmed down, and had the motivation, and finally the space to sort the garage for the upcoming engine swap.

And the day came finally. Off with the gearbox, out with the D24, ready for the TDI:
20220621_222327 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

TDI finally in its place
20220622_000753 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
Tried on the PS pump to check hood clearance. It seemed tight, but the gearbox rotated the engine further forward, so it gained more clearance. Fun fact the original D24TIC PS feed hose fits straight on to the late TDI PS pump.

Then got a fun indigestion, when i got better i went to a festival, came home with a light cold.

When I finally felt alright, I added the other ancillaries and started wiring it up with the previously rebuilt D24TIC harness:
20220711_140901 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

Installed the machined stainless fitting for the heat exchanger hoses:
20220711_140913 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220711_151255 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr
20220711_140958 by P?ter Gede, on Flickr

 

[nordmaschine]

Have you tried bolting up the D24 type bellhousing from a M46/47/90 to that BAU? Are you sure it wouldn't work?

IIRC the inline 5/6 pattern is very close to the Audi V6/V8 pattern. Not identical, but I think there is perhaps only one bolt hole that doesn't align? Supposedly it is close enough to successfully use it, and people have done so. With 11 fasteners on these, using only 10 seems to be ok.

Apparently, old V8 should fit D24 bellhousing, from all I've heard. I have yet to confirm that, but I should pick up one of those engines some time soon, so I'll be sure to check. I burried that BAU somewhere in the back of my storage in the mean time, but from what I remember, all the holes were "just a bit" off, as well as the starter casting on the block not lining up, also by "just a bit"... Flywheel/flexplate doesn't fit inside bellhousing, but D24 flywheel bolt holes line up, though crank snout diameter is is larger by a fraction of milimeter, I have exact amount written *somewhere*. Balancing that would be another issue though.

As someone pointed out, I could have used C5/B5 Quattro gearbox with front diff removed/welded, but that thing is just huge and heavy. Strong, plentiful and cheap Getrags still seem like the best option, but that bridge is still far ahead...

BAU motor, if you don't use it, maybe you can box it up and ship it to me. I'm trying to source one to put into my 2001 C5 Allroad. Found an AKN, AFB, and AKE all already here in the US with importers, but I would prefer to get hands on one of the later Bxx roller valvetrain versions.

OP, sorry for the thread discussion derail. Looking forward to seeing this project continue, lots of fun to watch so far!

I have a couple, if you want one we could find a way to make it happen. Also sory for the derail, but all of this is somewhat relevant, right?


BTW, Peter, why did you go with mechanical pump in the end? Nothing wrong with it per se, especially from dependability standpoint, but electronic control allows for lower consumption, more adjustment and ultimately higher power with less smoke, don't you think?

https://youtube.com/shorts/0K22hxvGKPs?feature=share

 

[dontknowyou]

forgive my ignorance;
the volvo diesel and the tdi have the same ???
is the tdi like a 5 cyl version of the volvo one? could someone please explain the similarities and differences? i would love to understand

amazing work btw

 

[OVERDRIVE]

forgive my ignorance;
the volvo diesel and the tdi have the same ???
is the tdi like a 5 cyl version of the volvo one? could someone please explain the similarities and differences? i would love to understand

amazing work btw

Most simply put, The D24 is shared architecture with the 1.6 VW indirect injection diesel, the R5 2.5 TDI is shared architecture with the 1.9 VW TDI motors, VW 5 and 6 cylinder engines generally share the same bell housing like these motors, so a 1.9 TDI won't bolt in but the 2.5 inline 5 bolts to the D24 transmission. The oil pan from the D24 can be cut and shortened like people do when putting a Volvo 5 cylinder whiteblock into a RWD. No where near bolt in but they share a lot of things in common. I have seen VW LT vans with the 2.5 TDI, those were also D24 in many applications.

 

[nordmaschine]

Basically what he said.

In my neck of the woods, there is still a lot of Mk1 VW LT vans/trucks, that originally came with D24/T/TIC running around with 2.5TDI-s swapped. Unfortunately, most people lack nerves/time/knowledge to retain electronic IP's and default to slapping Audi C3 2.0TD IDI injection pumps on and calling it a day, which makes for less-than-underwhelming performance...

As for oil pan... I like bashing into things, so if and when I finally get to swapping the I5 into a 7/9, I'll go with an old Audi gasser steel pan. I have a couple of those engines, but have yet to remove pan from any. Bolt-wise I know they fit, but does anyone know of a possibe problem? Obviously, I would hack-n-weld it and adjust oil pickup accordingly, but besides that?

 

[petiww]

BTW, Peter, why did you go with mechanical pump in the end? Nothing wrong with it per se, especially from dependability standpoint, but electronic control allows for lower consumption, more adjustment and ultimately higher power with less smoke, don't you think?

Few things leaded me towards mechanical pump: keeping the engine bay ancient looking for MOT easeness, keeping the engine runability depend on only one magnetic valve, lack of desire to pull dash to wire in anything.
After 10tkm though, i see why i could benefit from an electronic setup, but more of this later on!

As for oil pan... I like bashing into things, so if and when I finally get to swapping the I5 into a 7/9, I'll go with an old Audi gasser steel pan. I have a couple of those engines, but have yet to remove pan from any. Bolt-wise I know they fit, but does anyone know of a possibe problem? Obviously, I would hack-n-weld it and adjust oil pickup accordingly, but besides that?

I would go again with the aluminium sump shortening if i had to. Steel is easier to work on with simpler tooling, but it will never really look nice, plus the thin sheetmetal warpage - leak problems. Hell, even unmolested, they tend to leak, or at least thats my experience.

Yeah, back on the story:
20220711_151302 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20220711_151312 by Péter Gede, on Flickr

Stock TIC ps feedline almost could fit. But the end flare was different and it just did not sit in the right angle. TIGd on the appropriate end flare in the right angle.

20220711_151629 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20220711_151642 by Péter Gede, on Flickr

Kept the TIC catalytic converter, connected it with the art of work Audi downpipe.

20220711_155843 by Péter Gede, on Flickr

Serpentine belt on and looking nice

20220711_172930 by Péter Gede, on Flickr

Flipped rear coolant connector with the glow plugs. No pic of the work sadly. I did not rejoin the cut off piece because it had larger mating diameter. I got one made on the lathe, to join a heater hose from a redblock, so IIRC 16mm.

20220711_172947 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20220711_173016 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
MANY (problems - i guess)

And the almost finished bay:
20220715_152927 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20220715_152937 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20220715_152944 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20220715_152952 by Péter Gede, on Flickr

Air filter to turbo uses a mix of TIC and V70 parts, they are just pushed together because they match the diameter at that spot.
Turbo to intercooler piping uses the TIC aluminium tubing with one V70 rubber piece right at the turbo. Its nowhere near a perfect fit, but it works.
Intercooler to intake manifold uses V70 piping. Only one weld was needed, nothing else. Rubber pieces are also V70.
Top coolant hose is a mixture of redblock hoses. Lower coolant hose consists of an unmolested TIC hose and a silicon 90deg hose reducer from 38 to 35mm.
As you can see there is still no electric cooling fan on the radiator. ☠️
Anyways, test ride happened, and i was smiling a lot! At first i was easy with the accelerator, mostly because the hammered main cap... Then i started to drive it like a total fool and liked it even more.

After an afternoon of driving around, seeing no leaks, hearing no weird noises, in the evening i went for a few days of wild camping with it, and put in more than 500kms at that weekend. Fortunately nothing broke, nothing let loose, it just worked as it was intended to.
20220716_094025 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
At top of Zádorvár - old ruins. The lake in the distance is Balaton. Pretty morning view it was as we arrived around midnight. Good times!

 

[petiww]

Few pic to sum up the rest of the summer:
20220804_171928 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20220820_075632 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20220824_200615 by Péter Gede, on Flickr

Trips, festivals, cooking, having drinks, sleeping in car.
Doing a 400km roundtrip with that trailer was fun though, selling and bringing a few unneeded parts to other car guys... The previously bought AAT TDI engine to one guy, and various 740 front end components for crash repair to another. The trailer is actually a nice touch for wild camping as it blocks most of the view.
The available torque of the engine made it pretty effortless through the mountains, even though the trailer is pretty heavy.

Meanwhile, I had to use the Volvos daily as the little corsa needed some serious work and inspection... After the TDI seemed to work ok, i started to DD this thing around mid july, and continued until end of january, as i switched workplaces. 2x20km per day.
It never let me down, and i only needed to wire up the glow plugs when the colder weather kicked in around october.

20220921_125545 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
Quick test of a fresh column lift on a truck at workplace.

While daily driving this thing, of course the few little problems started to grow on me. The most irritating was the shuddering clutch. It is either coming from the frictional properties (100grit sanded flywheel, rebuilt disc, resurfaced pp) or the bad welding work at the splines. To cure this I bought this beauty:
20221022_214214 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
I will be able to use an unmodified 240mm clutch disc with this. Will send the flywheel too for some resurfacing.

Second irritating problem is the really short diff ratio. 3,54, and revs seems a lot when going on the autobahn. Searched for MK1 IRS, with some mods that would accept a BMW diff with a ratio around 2,5. But couldnt find any and the fab work seemed a bit too much.
Also this is where the mechanical fuel pump started to feel not so okay. I havent dyno'd the car yet, but it seems like the power is heavily dropping near 3500rpm, while it should rise for another 500rpm.
Decided on buying a 3,08 diff ratio from skandix. I think it comes from Yukon gear and axle. Well, im not overly satisfied with the build quality and aesthetic, but lets hope the dana 30 design, material, hardening process, and machining all works out for some long term abuse. I will either use it with a G80 or a torsen, thats not decided yet.

Then when the colder weather came and i drove much more with rolled up windows, i started to feel again that the whole driveline is vibrating periodically. I felt this even with the D24TIC before...
Checked u-joints, centre mount, etc. Somehow i wanted to measure it, so i downloaded Spectroid app and did some measuring:
Screenshot_20230110-101350_Spectroid by Péter Gede, on Flickr
Its at 41Hz, peaks every 4-5seconds. Deep rumble. Did some calculations, even a 3d model of the driveshaft and some motion analization and i did get to this frequency at these speeds. Played around with driveshaft angles too on the model. Interestingly only the centre mount lifting seemed to reduce the angular speed variations at the end of the shaft.

Tried a few different setups, angles, and only the centre support bearing lifting made a measureable difference when accelerating in third gear. I lifted it around 10mms. The periodic massacre is still present. Added some bushings to the centre support sheet. From Volvo gearbox bushings:
20230113_173341 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20230113_173333 by Péter Gede, on Flickr
20230113_184959 by Péter Gede, on Flickr

This did help a bit, but it is still a headache. We will see how the M90 and its driveshaft makes any change...

Current plans are, step by step:
-Dyno
-M90, flywheel resurfacing, rebuilt non modified clutch disc - see if it cures the clutch shuddering and driveline vibration.
-3,08 axle installation, see how useable the car becomes on autobahn
-Electronic fuel pump
-Dyno