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Whiteblock wiring options

Jush

Jush

Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2013
Location
Ontario Canada
So I'm seven years in this project and I'm really just looking for any options. If anyone has swapped a T5 into a RWD chassis of any form, and feels kind enough to share what you have done to get it working, would really help me get out of this rut.

Thanks,
-Jush
 

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I went with Motronic 4.4 using an 850 (m4.3 originally) harness, V70 ECU, VAST Coil on plug tune (requires soldering ~12 resistors onto the board) and ME7 coils/coil harness.

If you are used to combining random bits of harnesses it's probably the easiest and definitely the cheapest route, assuming you don't have space for the M4.4 distributor.
 
I actually do have space for it, I should make a diagram of what I have so far.

Appreciate the input. I'll get some pictures too.
 
oldschoolvolvo said:
@James M did you keep all the evap items / SAS airpump / downstream O2 in your M4.4 swap or could they be deleted with your tune?
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All the emissions components have had their monitors removed via the tune (although I do run a cat because I kinda like this planet). Not sure if that's included off the bat but I disabled them in tuner pro.

If you have an emissions test that requires monitors to set @AnthonyHardy2 is the guy to talk to.
 
Jush said:
So I'm seven years in this project and I'm really just looking for any options. If anyone has swapped a T5 into a RWD chassis of any form, and feels kind enough to share what you have done to get it working, would really help me get out of this rut.

Thanks,
-Jush
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If you don't mind spending a few bucks, MaxxECU sells a pre-made T5 harness that works with their standalones.
 
Wiring an engine doesn't have to be related to the type of engine. It can be as cheap or expensive as you desire, as pretty or functional as you desire.

I think the place most people start is with a factory harness they might have purchased from a junkyard and then carefully resect the wires you don't need out of the factory harness. The best EMS kits will come with repin kits to secure the wires you do need into the ems connector, or a new harness end (ala microsquirt) to solder wires to.

Personally, I would choose an ems first, then figure out how to connect the dots.
 
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Stock ECU was the plan because I like how well it works, I just set everything aside and now I gotta restart(ish). Mainly because I forget what I have and haven't done.

I made this thread because I wanted some input from folks who have had success just to weigh some options and I have some more money to throw at it if there are some decent plug and play options I was unaware of.

Thanks for mentioning MaxxECU I will be checking that out.
 
It's tight...
 

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I would convert to COP as the dizzy cap, rotor and leads are expensive to service + getting good quality leads that fit is getting harder these days
 
I mean, at this point you just need to hook things up and see if it goes. I'd strap that sucker down onto that pallet though. Hope you have a plan for accessing the distributor, etc for servicing. You'll need to sort out some details on the AT ECU in the manual car, but seeing as it looks like you noted the proper stuff for bypassing the NSS, you should at least not have that as a stumbling block to starting.

I have a desire to swap a Whiteblock into a non-Volvo RWD car (a Fox-chassised car), and my plan was to just use the stock ECU. I've been dabbling in the M4.4 DIY tuning on our two 850's for a few years now, so I'm moderately comfortable with things. In the middle of a billion other projects currently, though.
 
I don't think there is a NSS (neutral safety switch?), when I had my manual swapped car, I kinda preferred how fast the revs dropped, and could start it without clutching (obviously).

What do you use for 4.4 tuning? That's something I haven't put much thought into.

Cheers
 
Jush said:
I don't think there is a NSS (neutral safety switch?), when I had my manual swapped car, I kinda preferred how fast the revs dropped, and could start it without clutching (obviously).

What do you use for 4.4 tuning? That's something I haven't put much thought into.
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Well, I guess it's actually the "car in park" switch, so it'll start. Had to splice a couple of wires when I did the manual swap in my '97 854 (removed all of the AT wiring in the process). You would've had to bypass the PNP switch wiring from the AT to be able to start the car. It has nothing to do with the AT vs MT tune.

I'm using the DIY M4.4 flashing on the 98MY ECUs. I think it originated on Volvospeed, spearheaded by Aaron at VAST tuning. I used the info from the M4.4 Wiki page, as well as some details on the old/huge VS thread when I started doing mine. I didn't start with it to work on big power numbers, but mainly to be able to do non-stock configurations of things.
 
Now that you mention it, I guess the difference for me would have been that I just left the PNP switch on my wagon when it was manual swapped. Only turning it to park and just zip tying it up somewhere. (That's the kinda guy I am lol) But it did work so :e-shrug:

Thanks for your input Chuck, greatly appreciated!
 
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