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Will a Billet HD VX Camshaft and Free Flow Exhaust help offset Driving Tortoise Torture?

The Simons Sport System is quiet. You get a bit of sport sound listening out side. But inside the car it's like stock. The system is mandrel bent and has a nice tip on it. A quality piece that lasted about 7 years on my first system. I use the sleeve clamps on all the joints instead of the crush clamps that come with the systems.
 
The Simons Sport System is quiet. You get a bit of sport sound listening out side. But inside the car it's like stock. The system is mandrel bent and has a nice tip on it. A quality piece that lasted about 7 years on my first system. I use the sleeve clamps on all the joints instead of the crush clamps that come with the systems.
I've found sleeve clamps are almost always the way to go.
 
You can always do the turbo swap and then convert to the aw71 in the future... the aw70 won't last long under power. If you have questions about the turbo swap after reading, don't hesitate to ask. There's probably a couple dozen or so of us that have done the swap multiple times before and have lots of advice/spare parts to dish out.

Post something in the wanted section for an aw71 and you'll probably also find some CO locals that have one to sell you.
Thank you for your kind offer as I will indeed ask many questions if (and when) I go +t. You've and the other gents here, made me feel very welcomed and I am truly appreciative of the group overall generosity in sharing your knowledge.
 
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You do you :)
IMO the best dollar per HP returned is in raising the CR and a cam swap. Exhaust may make the car sound better, but an exhaust in good shape isn't much a restriction for most NA applications.

If you're just going to keep the car at Denver elevations, you can raise the CR significantly because the air density is so low. I live at 3k ft elevation, and every time I go down the 500ft my car feels like it has a turbo in comparison to what I'm used to.

The T-cam will be a big improvement as it's a cam with decent lift and a smaller duration exhaust lobe, so you will get better port flow over the M-cam and then increase your DCR by the lower overlap. You can easily increase the CR by shaving the head to a very reasonable CR, and this will be a big improvement (by NA standards).
Denver is actually low altitude base (to me) as driving around almost anywhere interesting implies heading to higher elevation (so very slowly).
Thus increasing the CR will be of great benefit as you wisely say. However I've got a couple of questions please:
Will shaving off 1mm/0.040” exponentially increase detonation? If so, how do you avoid this? Have you retarded your ignition? And lastly, wouldn't low compression be better for longevity in a turbo application instead if I later on decide to go +t? Thanks.
 
The Simons Sport System is quiet. You get a bit of sport sound listening out side. But inside the car it's like stock. The system is mandrel bent and has a nice tip on it. A quality piece that lasted about 7 years on my first system. I use the sleeve clamps on all the joints instead of the crush clamps that come with the systems.
Thank you for the "quiet" heads up as I am really considering this vs the iPD turbo system.
 
I've found sleeve clamps are almost always the way to go.
I will keep an eye on your advice, specially since most muffler shops (IMO) are so difficult to work with, so most likely I'll rent a high lift bay and do it myself when the time comes. Thank you.
 
Denver is actually low altitude base (to me) as driving around almost anywhere interesting implies heading to higher elevation (so very slowly).
Thus increasing the CR will be of great benefit as you wisely say. However I've got a couple of questions please:
Will shaving off 1mm/0.040” exponentially increase detonation? If so, how do you avoid this? Have you retarded your ignition? And lastly, wouldn't low compression be better for longevity in a turbo application instead if I later on decide to go +t? Thanks.
At sea level you can take 1mm/0.040” off the head and not have detonation issues with lh2.4 and lh3.1. With lh2.2 or Chrysler ignition you might have to adjust the timing a smidge. For race engines we take a minimum of 0.080” off the heads and shoot for 11:1-12.5:1 with premium gas.

If you have the head now, and go +t later, you can always open up the chambers and unshroud the valves which is drastically needed on SOHC heads.

The advertised CR is not anywhere close to the measured CR. Once you remove 0.030-0.040” you end up in the 9.8-10:1 CR range.
 
I've got a T cam in my '90 240 with auto and paired with a 2.25" cat back sport exhaust. It initally feels about the same as the M cam at low speeds, BUT it definitely feels zippy and enjoyable in the mid range and freeway speeds. It climbs hills a lot better as well. I live in the mountains and enjoy taking my 240 drives on local back roads and the freeway. The cam went in before the exhaust was changed so I was able to note that it does help becasue while the cam swap itself was somewhat better by itself, still felt a little choked up with the stock 2" system. On that note, does anyone know if the T cam in an N/A b230f actually adds some horsepoewr or is it more of a usable power band and throttle response improvement?
 
At sea level you can take 1mm/0.040” off the head and not have detonation issues with lh2.4 and lh3.1. With lh2.2 or Chrysler ignition you might have to adjust the timing a smidge. For race engines we take a minimum of 0.080” off the heads and shoot for 11:1-12.5:1 with premium gas.

If you have the head now, and go +t later, you can always open up the chambers and unshroud the valves which is drastically needed on SOHC heads.

The advertised CR is not anywhere close to the measured CR. Once you remove 0.030-0.040” you end up in the 9.8-10:1 CR range.
Hi Robert,

I missed this earliest insight from you. Thank you! Am thinking if I don’t find a suitable shop here in Denver, would you be able to shave of my engine’s head and maybe discuss some valve work if needed?
 
I've got a T cam in my '90 240 with auto and paired with a 2.25" cat back sport exhaust. It initally feels about the same as the M cam at low speeds, BUT it definitely feels zippy and enjoyable in the mid range and freeway speeds. It climbs hills a lot better as well. I live in the mountains and enjoy taking my 240 drives on local back roads and the freeway. The cam went in before the exhaust was changed so I was able to note that it does help becasue while the cam swap itself was somewhat better by itself, still felt a little choked up with the stock 2" system. On that note, does anyone know if the T cam in an N/A b230f actually adds some horsepoewr or is it more of a usable power band and throttle response improvement?
Thank you for sharing.
I’d like to do the same step by step process so just like you, I can relate any direct improvements.
 
Hi Robert,

I missed this earliest insight from you. Thank you! Am thinking if I don’t find a suitable shop here in Denver, would you be able to shave of my engine’s head and maybe discuss some valve work if needed?
Any engine machine shop that will surface a head and wash it can perform the machine work. It’s all pretty easy. I’ve had great luck with Napa machine shops with simple decking and a spray wash.

You could send it to me, but I’m a looong ways out on work and it would be significantly more money for you with shipping.
 
I've also had good luck with Napa. If you plan on taking a good amount of meat off of the head, you may want to invest in an adjustable cam gear. Your timing may be retarded a few degrees. This is hotly debated, but mathematically you are shortening the distance from the cam to the crank, and the adjuster will take up slop on one side only.
 
I'd call Baker Garage / Volvo Specialists and ask them politely who they use these days for redblock machine shop work.

Western Engine Supply used to be the good high volume shop in Denver, but I don't know their current reputation. link
 
Thanks for asking cookieboy, all is standing by, as exhaust is on back order, camshaft was offered from within this forum but the would be seller never followed up with offer. Bottom line, I need to get my act together nonetheless and will inform of updates when tasks are accomplished or parts available.
 
Thanks for asking cookieboy, all is standing by, as exhaust is on back order, camshaft was offered from within this forum but the would be seller never followed up with offer. Bottom line, I need to get my act together nonetheless and will inform of updates when tasks are accomplished or parts available.
For what it’s worth, there’s probably someone else who might have a cam for sale and you can get an also adjustable gear from STS. As far as the sport exhaust, you can order the Starla turbo muffler and have a muffler shop fab up the 2.25” piping, that’s what I have on my 240 and the piping doesn’t have that flat spot by the axle section of it like the one from IPD, so it probably flows a little better than their sport exhaust.
 
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