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Will this NA setup work?

digital.aaron

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Feb 10, 2012
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turnin up the volume to 11 on the dial
So I'm getting ready to drop a b23/530 combo in the 76. I've got a k-cam and an adjustable cam gear to put on it. The b23 is still on LH2.0, but the harness is toast. I'm thinking I want to move to LH2.2, so I'm looking at getting a harness from an 88 240, 2.2 AMM, and I'm considering grabbing a turbo ecu and running my orange tops. My reasoning is that with the k-cam making more power in the higher rpms, the turbo ecu and orange tops would be able to deliver more fuel than an NA ecu and stock NA injectors can. Am I mistaken? Or will this actually work the way I think it will?
 
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you won't need any more fuel with n/a as long as the stock ones are in good shape you should be fine. If you are going to all the trouble to swap to a better EFI how much harder would it be to go to LH 2.4 where you can actully modify it and tune it? I think the bigger injectors will help with more fuel if you have higher compression or if the ignition is advanced a huge amount, but look at kyle's car when he played with the timing, you might get a couple more foot-lbs of torque, but I don't think it would be anything really noticable...
 
Drop the B23 w/K cam in, keep K-Jet basic, and find out how good an n/a redblock can run.

K-Basic + B23 +K cam = win.

edit: if you use a 398 head with the B23 bottom end the cc is smaller and you will end up with a higher compression ratio. You will loose compression with the 531 head. This would be the way to go with 398 ported head. Or a 405 head
 
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I wouldn't run the ignition system from the '88 240. Get the EZK from a 2.2 740 if you must use 2.2.
 
I wouldn't run the ignition system from the '88 240. Get the EZK from a 2.2 740 if you must use 2.2.

I'll second that. I've converted several 2.0 cars to 2.2/EZK and it's pretty straightforward if you can read wiring diagrams. Be sure to get the EZK mounting bracket as it can be used to mount the computer in the 240 as well using the firewall panel bolts.
 
you won't need any more fuel with n/a as long as the stock ones are in good shape you should be fine. If you are going to all the trouble to swap to a better EFI how much harder would it be to go to LH 2.4 where you can actully modify it and tune it? I think the bigger injectors will help with more fuel if you have higher compression or if the ignition is advanced a huge amount, but look at kyle's car when he played with the timing, you might get a couple more foot-lbs of torque, but I don't think it would be anything really noticable...

I already have all the 2.2 components and none of the 2.4 components. I don't want to drill and tap for a knock sensor or crank sensor.

Sounds fun. You should deck the **** out of the head and make it high compression

Pretty sure the 530 has already been decked. Compression test yields 210 psi at each cylinder. Does anyone know what kind of compression ratio that would translate to?

Drop the B23 w/K cam in, keep K-Jet basic, and find out how good an n/a redblock can run.

K-Basic + B23 +K cam = win.

edit: if you use a 398 head with the B23 bottom end the cc is smaller and you will end up with a higher compression ratio. You will loose compression with the 531 head. This would be the way to go with 398 ported head. Or a 405 head

I'm done with k-jet. I prefer troubleshooting and fixing EFI.

And it's funny you mention a ported 398. I have a ported 398.... that's currently completely disassembled. It still needs some machine shop work and won't be ready in time. This is the next upgrade I'll be targeting after my swap.


I wouldn't run the ignition system from the '88 240. Get the EZK from a 2.2 740 if you must use 2.2.

I wouldn't either. ;-) My initial plan is to keep the bosch breakerless ignition.
 

ken it's not that simple---especially a cranking speed. Take it to some crazy extreme--often a good way of magnifying a trend or chain of thought.
If the valves didn't open at all aka O duration O lift, the cranking pressure would be 'X"

Or...Intake opened at TDC and closed at BDC...now the piston is compressing the full 80mm that it goes up so you get "A lot" of cranking pressure..

Now imagine the cam closes exactly at 60 degrees AFTER BDC---the crank has rotated 1/3 of what its going to do from BDC to TDC..
Piston motion is not exactly linear--not at all but the point is there piston has gone UP while the valve is open---not dynamic filling at cranking speed so no compression is made until the intake valve closes...

so the cam with Intake closing 60 ABDC is gonna have less prussure than the one that closed at BDC

Now imagine some fun cam with intake closing 80 degrees ABDC, the piston has really been moving and so solly lound eye, No complession till intake varve croses!
So at cranking speed that cam is going to have LOWER Peee Esse Eyes, mang...

LOTS of PSI at cranking speed just says there's some boring snore-generating cam...

OR wildly excessive valve lash (makes shorter duration)

Or 1/8" of solid carbon on the piston crown..

But one cannot say just like that...Cam and piston motion near BDC makes it difficult.
 
Drop the B23 w/K cam in, keep K-Jet basic, and find out how good an n/a redblock can run.

K-Basic + B23 +K cam = win.

edit: if you use a 398 head with the B23 bottom end the cc is smaller and you will end up with a higher compression ratio. You will loose compression with the 531 head. This would be the way to go with 398 ported head. Or a 405 head

The b23 has a 160/398 on it factory
 
I wouldn't run the ignition system from the '88 240. Get the EZK from a 2.2 740 if you must use 2.2.

Which years of 740 for lh2.2 ezk?

I'll second that. I've converted several 2.0 cars to 2.2/EZK and it's pretty straightforward if you can read wiring diagrams. Be sure to get the EZK mounting bracket as it can be used to mount the computer in the 240 as well using the firewall panel bolts.

Not to derail but what all do you need for the conversion? Which 240 dizzy do you use the 2.2 one or can you stay with the 2.0?
 
85-89 740's had EZK...

That's how I setup my girlfriend's '81 245, when we went EFI...LH2.2 and EZK...

That setup has the original B21F, which was K-jet and has the "B" cam...

Stock N/A computers and injectors are all the fuel it needs, and it goes like stink!

Awesome setup and dead reliable!!!

I had to drill & tap for my knock sensor...which isn't my first time...no biggie. Your B23 however, should already have the blind threaded hole for your knock sensor.
 
you won't need any more fuel with n/a as long as the stock ones are in good shape you should be fine. If you are going to all the trouble to swap to a better EFI how much harder would it be to go to LH 2.4 where you can actully modify it and tune it? I think the bigger injectors will help with more fuel if you have higher compression or if the ignition is advanced a huge amount, but look at kyle's car when he played with the timing, you might get a couple more foot-lbs of torque, but I don't think it would be anything really noticable...

I would go as far as saying that 3.1 would be better, and not only because I have everything he needs for that swap.
 
What are the tuning options for 3.1? What's involved in that swap?

Plug the harness, find a constant source of electricity for the speedo input, splice in the body connector. Requires an LH 2.4 flywheel for EZK.

You can use a Moates Ostrich 2.0 to tune fuel (basic xdf file available) and spark.
 
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