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Wow John, this is outstanding information. At first glance it all makes sense, now give me a few minutes to re-read and process it all haha.
That needs to be stickied somewhere John. Great info!
Ok so let's take this educational lesson to the next level. How would the adjustable timing gear play into this equation?
Huh, I actually enjoy reading JV's post when he speaks human. Go figure.
messing with CR and cam works but swapping in a 4,10:1 rear axel (can be found on 16V NA automatic cars, some also had the G80 locker installed, if not, just weld the spider gears solid. Good enough for some low level rallycross fun)
and
using lower section tires (like 195/50 x 15, lower circumference gives shorter total driveline ratio)
both mods will give the car instant faster acceleration. Both were popular Volvo original rallycup mods back in 2003/2004.
With these mods you might even need 3rd gear. LOL
Would throwing a B or K cam in quickly do anything or is it a waste of time?
3.91 or shorter rear and drop 500lbs of weight and they wake right up. Not a good plan for a comfortable driver, but a cheap "race car" it helps.What ratio does he have now?
Gearing is nice, and I am always puzzled how people overlook it..
But if my wag-goon is anything to judge by Volvo late 80s n.a. things are shockingly mild--politely put..
Compression is nice and non-emissions cams are fun....especially cams intended to be used just for this sort of thing..
In my opinion the B cam still feels like a slow stock cam. The K at least feels like you made a worthwhile change.The K won't help your low end. The B will allow the engine to rev better that the M. I'd recommend the B if you have easy access to one.
3.91 or shorter rear and drop 500lbs of weight and they wake right up. Not a good plan for a comfortable driver, but a cheap "race car" it helps.
In my opinion the B cam still feels like a slow stock cam. The K at least feels like you made a worthwhile change.
The B cam is a baby step up the ladder from an M cam for a daily driver. That's about it.
AdjustedIMO for an N/A engine
-W
-Swedish cams (SAM, ENEM, etc)
-H
-K
-V
-A
-B or T
-M
Skip the g80 locker and go for a Spartan locker. It'll replace the spider gears with a locker, and it uses the open carrier that's currently in the car(still gotta pull it out though).
We have one in the rally car, WAY better turn-in than a welded diff, and way more predictable than a g80.