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Microsquirt and the LH2.4 VR sensor reading a 60-2

Stiggy, you are getting more of a workout with this than I did. Keep at it. I think bobxyz is right on. You have to find the sweet spot.

Are you running the solder bridge covered on the back of the uS board? I think you will want that in place for VR sensor use. It attenuates the voltage a bit.
 
qwkswede said:
Stiggy, you are getting more of a workout with this than I did. Keep at it. I think bobxyz is right on. You have to find the sweet spot.

Are you running the solder bridge covered on the back of the uS board? I think you will want that in place for VR sensor use. It attenuates the voltage a bit.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'm trying very hard to be patient with it! I pulled out a good running basic ms2 setup so it's easy to beat myself up for taking on such a big change.

I did not jump that solder bridge on the board, I should be able to do the same in the harness with external resistors right? I had left it off after you found it didn't help your situation.

I like Bob's suggestion of seeing where I am with no resistors. I feel like it should be telling that with the original CPS wiring I had the cranking sync loss, and clean running. and after flipping the CPS, I have clean cranking and sporadic sync loss running. Just don't know how to interpret the results.

A lot of the threads on msextra turn to discussion on RF noise from coils. I'm running the ls2 coils wired straight up, no caps or anything. I'll need to better understand how to identify noise in the composite log. BUT, since the car was running very solidly on the original CPS configuration with no sync loss - wouldn't that indicate I'm not dealing with a chronic, systemic noise issue? Since the coils are something significantly different from our two setups, it does make me cast a suspicious eye at them.
 
Only somewhat related...I had an issue of sync loss when cranking, but solid running up to the limiter. Running around 1500ohms across the CPS reduced the sync loss, got it sitting at 750 now (had a limited selection of resistors on hand) and it's every once in a while that it might have a single loss during cranking, still revs to the limiter without issue.

Definitely some trial and error in getting the correct resistance. Nathan suggested start at 10k and work down to 1k. If the local radio schmuck had a legit POT to use, I would have tried that instead, set it where it's the happiest and forget about it.

On the flip side, my MS stuff has been out of the car for a few months, since it's that time of the month...for smog. They will be headed back to Kenny for a refurbish and update to run his new style, that uses the stock EZK signal shaping and feeds that to MS, so the stock signal and everything works normally. Should clean things up nicely, plus hopefully some knock control of one form or another will get added in. :)
 
is there any way to view a longer/larger composite or tooth log? I took long logs, but ML Viewer is limiting me to a 100 point data set which isn't even ten revolutions. That makes it difficult to impossible to capture any intermittent problems. I couldn't get any logs that captured an error.

I did stop the streaming log in TS right after it once and it's way off
ugslaHX.jpg


otherwise it looks like this
4lJnAjo.jpg


Switched rising edge to falling and it didn't sync up at all. Switched it back and took the 4.7k resistor out of the harness - drove a 5 minute loop, up to 6,300rpm and didn't register any sync loss. I'll check timing tomorrow and do some more driving and see how it is.
 
So far so good with the "flipped" CPS wiring and NO resistor in the circuit at all. Drove ~40 miles on Sunday and it didn't miss a beat.
 
I am using the EZK box to condition the VR signal and sending it out to my MS setup on my chump car like kenny suggested.. Works like a champ and the conditioner is designed to work with the factory vr sensor and trigger wheel so you know it more likely to outperform the MS design. Maybe give that a try?

-Sam
 
woah... that's cool. What does the ezk box need to work on its own?
 
I'm getting ready to send my setup back to Kenny to have that setup implemented as well, should be far more stable.

I'm also hoping to get some additional info from another source to allow for the stock EZK knock sensor circuit to feed MS as well. Should be interesting to have that integrated in, saves having to buy KnockMS possibly.
 
Hm. Interesting about the EZK box. What is the output from the EZK? Is it just a single pulse per revolution? And how does the timing control happen?
 
gsellstr said:
I'm also hoping to get some additional info from another source to allow for the stock EZK knock sensor circuit to feed MS as well. Should be interesting to have that integrated in, saves having to buy KnockMS possibly.
Click to expand...

I was going to say I'm pretty uninterested in dealing with an EZK box just to condition the VR (it really shouldn't be/isn't necessary), but that bit about knock control makes it more interesting!
 
Yeah, it really does doesn't it. Once I have the info from someone on BS, I'll get it to Kenny for interpretation and implementation, hopefully next week.
 
qwkswede said:
Hm. Interesting about the EZK box. What is the output from the EZK? Is it just a single pulse per revolution? And how does the timing control happen?
Click to expand...

nah you pull the signal straight from the conditioner, it's just a clean 60-2 reading from the sensor. go plunder the buchkaspark thread to see where you tie in. I run the ezk in dead head mode at that point, I suppose if you wanted you could desolder the processor because it's not used for that.
 
Not to use this as my diary but it looks like I am getting more #2 sync loss during cranking, seems to be more prevalent when it's hot. Not enough that I can't start the car, but enough to give me "the fear" at the gas station this morning. No occurences while driving, I seem to have as much of a rev range as I need.

Not sure what else to do with it. Almost wish I had pots to twist so at least I could try something. May have to look into the EZK stuff like Kenny is mentioning, or consider a different route altogether.
 
Since this is a mixed poster thread, let me make sure I'm following your current setup
- you're running stock CPS sensor
- with MicroSquirt V3
- with no added resistors
- cranking is giving #2 sync loss errors when hot
- running and higher RPM are OK
Yes?

Sync loss during cranking would be either low signal amplitude or noisy signal.
- how exactly is your CPS wired and routed? is it using 2-wire cable with a shield? shield connected only on MS end to sensor ground? cable routed far away from high-voltage sparkplug wires?
- I hate to add another variable, but is the flywheel-to-sensor spacing adjustable? Moving it closer would increase amplitude at cranking speed, but would also increase it at all other speeds.
 
bobxyz said:
Since this is a mixed poster thread, let me make sure I'm following your current setup
- you're running stock CPS sensor
- with MicroSquirt V3
- with no added resistors
- cranking is giving #2 sync loss errors when hot
- running and higher RPM are OK
Yes?

Sync loss during cranking would be either low signal amplitude or noisy signal.
- how exactly is your CPS wired and routed? is it using 2-wire cable with a shield? shield connected only on MS end to sensor ground? cable routed far away from high-voltage sparkplug wires?
- I hate to add another variable, but is the flywheel-to-sensor spacing adjustable? Moving it closer would increase amplitude at cranking speed, but would also increase it at all other speeds.
Click to expand...

all bullet points on the setup are correct. I have the stock CPS wired to the VR-1 input on a pre-built DIY harness - so it's a shielded twisted pair. Shield wire is tied to the Sensor Ground wire in the DIY harness.

I have the whole micro harness running along the top of the firewall, so it does come within a few inches of my #4 coil. Plug wires are brand new self-built with MSD 8.5mm wires. You can see harness to coil proximity in the picture below, the connector itself is over by the lefthand side of the driver's firewall plate.

jlT0JIm.jpg


I'm hoping that since I'm using a well shielded wire that my routing is OK. I'd love to not open the harness up.

Re: adjusting the air gap. It's not adjustable in any way that I know, there is a little aluminum bracket it bolts to with one 10mm bolt. I do have spare blocks that I could use to play with gapping it without having to pull the trans out of this car. I had thought about maybe shaving a few thou off the mounting ear on the sensor itself, which would effectively bring the sensor down closer to the flywheel.

lg_54823b04-6ecb-4d98-967a-55d58c45ca77.jpg


Sensor currently in the car is brand new Bougi by the way.

Thanks again for the help! Also after work yesterday I hit some sync loss when cold as well, but this morning it started multiple times without issues. It's a lot better than when I had the CPS wired the opposite way - I could barely get the car started before.
 
Voice of experience...closing the gap doesn't help, actually made mine worse. I trimmed the ear down about .015", had more sync errors, took longer to start. Tried the Kia sensor a few have talked about, never got that to even work at all, ran too hot. I suspect the stock VR sensor is hotter than MS is expecting.
 
Have you guys considered a hall sensor with Mueller's adapter? I don't get any sync errors with that setup.... ( Granted, I was lazy and didn't want to invest any time getting the vr to work.)
 
gsellstr said:
Voice of experience...closing the gap doesn't help, actually made mine worse. I trimmed the ear down about .015", had more sync errors, took longer to start. Tried the Kia sensor a few have talked about, never got that to even work at all, ran too hot. I suspect the stock VR sensor is hotter than MS is expecting.
Click to expand...

I have always had issues with the OEM volvo hardware and megasquirt when it came to triggering.
 
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